Nukeranger
Nukeranger
Let me know which HF 20 Ton you would go for
Fork Seal Sunday!
- Thread starter Th3InfamousI
- Start date
There is only one 20ton H frame and you can frequently catch them on sale for about $160
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Nukeranger
Nukeranger
I see two. One is an H frame and one is an A frame.
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-shop-press-32879.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-a-frame-industrial-heavy-duty-floor-shop-press-37999.html
BWG56
Guru
I would prolly just go with the $169.99, 20 ton, that's why I said if ya have the room, because there will be other things you will be able to do with the press
, I was able to do the front hubs just using a 6" vise I have, but the one in the rear that takes 2 bearings Is too wide for my vise, but I took it to where my son worked and they had one of these HF 20 ton press's and it was no problem. So that got me thinking
maybe my next tool
, I was able to do the front hubs just using a 6" vise I have, but the one in the rear that takes 2 bearings Is too wide for my vise, but I took it to where my son worked and they had one of these HF 20 ton press's and it was no problem. So that got me thinking maybe my next tool
Nukeranger
Nukeranger
I think there are two HF 20 ton press's to choose from. Which one are you thinking?I would prolly just go with the $169.99, 20 ton, that's why I said if ya have the room, because there will be other things you will be able to do with the press
BWG56
Guru
I see they list 2 and I don't know what the difference is between them cause they look the same, I just picked up a trailer dolly last week and they had 3 different part no's listed for them but they only had one in stock, I don't get why they do that online.
Nukeranger
Nukeranger
I believe a trip to HF is in order. My concern is the width between the channels.
Buy a Press over that Tool - I just spent way too long dicking around with it, but it works. I'll probably buy a press for next round haha.
Hew, What is your concern with rim size? Just remove the hubs you will need to remove them to get the bearing out anyways so 16" or 20" is more than enough. If someone can show me a way to get a bearing out with that sleeve inside their hub I would be impressed you can't get the collet enough of a bite on the extraction tool.
Ahhh Hell!
I just looked on Harbor Freight and the 20-TON is on sale for $169 add a 20% off Coupon and that press is only $135. If I saw that earlier today I wouldn't have even tried using that stupid Pit Posse tool and went and bought that for that price.
After fighting with that thing I'm going to get a press especially for $140 I'll figure out the space issue.
I just looked on Harbor Freight and the 20-TON is on sale for $169 add a 20% off Coupon and that press is only $135. If I saw that earlier today I wouldn't have even tried using that stupid Pit Posse tool and went and bought that for that price.
After fighting with that thing I'm going to get a press especially for $140 I'll figure out the space issue.
BWG56
Guru
Oh good Lord man,
until you found the metal, then cut it, buy a torch or cut off saw, the springs, eye loops, nuts and bolts and a $40 bottle jack, I would just buy it
BWG56
Guru
I just unbolted the hubs and used a brass bar/drift and a hammer, just knocked them out. Then I used a socket on the O.D. of the bearing to push it in.
I don't think you can get them out without taking the hubs off the wheel.
Last edited:
Right but to knock them out you gotta take the hubs off
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BWG56
Guru
Nukeranger
Nukeranger
I currently have a 12 Ton with a width capacity of a little over 16 inches. I was thinking about my other bikes & wheels. Since the hubs come out of the Big Dog wheels, I can use my 12 Ton press. Thinking a little bit more about it, the Triumph wheels should not present an issue with wheel bearing work. I have plenty of bearing driver tools and all thread around along with a small lathe to make what I need.
I believe I am good.
Huw
KaptinAmerika
Guru
If you want to make it less messy:
1) FIll a 5 gallon bucket, or other your preference, with 5" of diesel.
2) You should already have the damper bolts removed but i f you don't remove them.
3) Put the fork nut with its rubber washer back in the top of the fork tube.
4) Place the fork leg in the bucket.
5) Pump the tube up and down to draw the diesel in and out of the fork leg.
6) Draw diesel into the fork leg and quickly remove it from the bucket turning the assembly up side down so the diesel can get into the tube and clean everything up in that area.
7) Flush everything back out of the assembly and set aside.
Now when you pull evrything apart it is already clean and ready to be blown off and reassembled.
This relieves you of looking down into the leg and trying to figure out how your going to get all that crap out of the bottom of the leg...
A much cheaper alternative to the fork seal tool is to use a pvc coupling, that fits over the tube, an ABS reducer to go form the coupling to a 2" PVC pipe about 3' long. Slide the assembly over the tube and slide the assembly up and down to drive the seal in nice and clean.
1) FIll a 5 gallon bucket, or other your preference, with 5" of diesel.
2) You should already have the damper bolts removed but i f you don't remove them.
3) Put the fork nut with its rubber washer back in the top of the fork tube.
4) Place the fork leg in the bucket.
5) Pump the tube up and down to draw the diesel in and out of the fork leg.
6) Draw diesel into the fork leg and quickly remove it from the bucket turning the assembly up side down so the diesel can get into the tube and clean everything up in that area.
7) Flush everything back out of the assembly and set aside.
Now when you pull evrything apart it is already clean and ready to be blown off and reassembled.
This relieves you of looking down into the leg and trying to figure out how your going to get all that crap out of the bottom of the leg...
A much cheaper alternative to the fork seal tool is to use a pvc coupling, that fits over the tube, an ABS reducer to go form the coupling to a 2" PVC pipe about 3' long. Slide the assembly over the tube and slide the assembly up and down to drive the seal in nice and clean.
cdogg556
Guru
Great info Curtis!If you want to make it less messy:
1) FIll a 5 gallon bucket, or other your preference, with 5" of diesel.
2) You should already have the damper bolts removed but i f you don't remove them.
3) Put the fork nut with its rubber washer back in the top of the fork tube.
4) Place the fork leg in the bucket.
5) Pump the tube up and down to draw the diesel in and out of the fork leg.
6) Draw diesel into the fork leg and quickly remove it from the bucket turning the assembly up side down so the diesel can get into the tube and clean everything up in that area.
7) Flush everything back out of the assembly and set aside.
Now when you pull evrything apart it is already clean and ready to be blown off and reassembled.
This relieves you of looking down into the leg and trying to figure out how your going to get all that crap out of the bottom of the leg...
A much cheaper alternative to the fork seal tool is to use a pvc coupling, that fits over the tube, an ABS reducer to go form the coupling to a 2" PVC pipe about 3' long. Slide the assembly over the tube and slide the assembly up and down to drive the seal in nice and clean.
BWG56
Guru
I just got mine in the mail todayYou know Eric, I'm about due for a fork job. You could be my new best friend
