Extremely Hot

[Mastiff Rider64]

Ok guys, I need your advice or help on something. My 2009 Bulldog Bagger seems to be running extremely hot. So hot that after the ride I planned the other weekend I may need someone who can paint the Anniversary paint job on the electrical side covers. During my ride the other weekend the bike ran very well, but it seemed to running extremely hot. When we left out that morning temps were mid 70's, when we got to Barbarosa Saloon in Tenn they were mid 80's, Gatlinburg was about 92 when we got there, and the heat coming off the bike in the stop and go traffic made me decide to park the bike and visit while the bike was cooling off.

The day before leaving I noticed my transmission fluid was low so i added some till the full make with bike standing up right, did an oil change also added the correct amount of oil then ran the bike to let it get thru the system and added some more to the full line after it went thru the new oil coolers I used 20w-50 amsoil synthetic, added my oil pressure gauge, which I'm a little confused, after starting bike I'm running like 30 psi at idle, as the motor warms up it does lower down to about 10 psi. But I have theory on why in Gatlinburg it was at 0 psi at idle and the little bit of moving or throttling up it only moved to like 5 psi.

But after parking the bike, I pulled the key out of ignition and the rubber part of key was so soft and mushy, not only did it burn my thumb and side of index finger from grabbing it to remove it, but I dropped it in my other hand and the metal part of it was so hot that it burnt me also to the point I dropped the key on the ground. After 2.5 hours in Gatlinburg we headed back to the bike and rode from gatlinburg all the way to Spartanburg stopping 1 time for gas and stretch our legs bike ran great, even the temp seemed a little better or maybe the fact I was sunburnt I didn't notice the heat on my legs as much as my arms? But we made it home. The next day I go to clean the bike up and i noticed that my electrical side covers paint was bubbling and the plastic was missed shaped behind the rear cylinder. Now I measured the distance of the pipe to the cover removed the pipes put the factory pipes back on and measured and honestly there is no more than an .25 inch difference in the distance so i dont think its the pipes that done it. I think either the transmission got so hot or the motor got so hot that while the bike was parked the heat off of them did this.

Here is where I need your advice or help, whats causing this bike to run so hot?

now here is what I do know, I have the fiberglass washers between the igintion cover and the heads, so heat shouldn't transfer that bad
New spark plugs, new dual oil coolers, wires, oil change, transmission topped off, oil pressure is good except at high temps
never went over 76 MPH, never under 35 unless at stop light, or stuck in traffic in gatlinburg
exhaust was changed from factory with mean mother slip ons to Paul yaffie Phantom II for baggers baffle is still installed
New fuel pump, injectors, throttle position sensor, MAF sensor, rsd air cleaner, running 93 ethanol free gas

 

[aspen874]

Mine runs extremely hot also, to the point of overheating in traffic. My ignition key is the same as yours, it's too hot to hold. I'm guessing Bigdog did this to meet EPA restrictions. I would think if you could put more fuel in, it would help the motor run a little cooler, I did the same on my Mastiff by increasing the jet size and it ran cooler, just lost a little mileage.

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

So i would need to go into protune software and increase the fuel to help cool the motor? I have the programmable vfi module from S&S. But my Mastiff has never ran this hot not even in traffic at bike week.

 

[aspen874]

If you try to increase the fuel and it works please let me know

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

If you try to increase the fuel and it works please let me know

Will do.

 

[john sachs]

Possible ignition timing or ignition module issue (advance or retard). Possible air leak causing engine to run lean.( carb, valve not sealing, vacuum hose leak).
John

 

[pknowles]

If you're running that hot with the efi motors, it should have gone into the limp mode.

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

If you're running that hot with the efi motors, it should have gone into the limp mode.

It didn't go in limp mode and like I said seemed to run great, just could feel the heat and then my key burning me and the electrical cover paint bubbling. If I can borrow my son's mother's laptop I'll check anything I can with the software but I honestly have no idea how to navigate that software except to look up codes.

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

Possible ignition timing or ignition module issue (advance or retard). Possible air leak causing engine to run lean.( carb, valve not sealing, vacuum hose leak).
John

Do you know how i can check that on the protune 2 software if its advanced or retarded? And also how would I check for an air leak? I know on vacuum pumps you spray a little nitrogen around them and if the vacuum falls way off then you have a leak, but not so sure how to check on this bike. Also where are all the vacuum lines on this thing they have everything so crammed in there its hard to tell whats what. Attached are pictures of the spark plugs that came out of it, the one with the rust is from front yes front and the cleaner one from the rear.

 

[mleach72]

I don't know much about the protune, but I do have a lot of experience with the power commander and the autotune. Can you adjust the fuel tables?

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

I don't know much about the protune, but I do have a lot of experience with the power commander and the autotune. Can you adjust the fuel tables?

IDK, I'll have to call S&S and find out

 

[Ernie12]

My Key on my bagger gets pretty hot also.

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

My Key on my bagger gets pretty hot also.

But does it actually burn you? And the rubber melt or get so hot that when you pull it out it leaves not only a blister on your thumb and index finger but the rubber now is compressed where i grabbed it and my finger print inbedded in the rubber.

 

[Sven]

We headed out to 90°+ environment and rode for how long? My key was so hot, on the drop, we headed home? Where my experience is within a few miles, the engine eats itself if low/no oil. But riding in a high temp, high ambient environment, the long ride home... Air Temp/Ambient Showed:
1. Enough oil where the engine shows no damage.
2. The engine took the ambient.
3. The ignition is not retarded to cause an overheating problem.
4. You couldn't ride a bike that long if it locked retarded/lean. The heat would run down the skirts, boil the oil away, being to remove skirt material. This where the many revolutions begin to eat parts as the spin snowballs, sometimes welds parts together.
5. It's not a lean mixture problem if just slightly lean due to the heat.
6. Another beauty with zero oil up the plug threads like the rings/piston took a shit? Tick is torn away skirts and each tick is the excess gap of the piston skirt slapping at the top then slapping at the bottom on the way back up... no tick right? Oil would have shown on the plug's threads. Dry as a bone however. Sell me that engine you sense is damaged.
7. You don't read a plug at the nose. But visually, lean is mean. No aluminum/gray spots from detonation starting a hole at the dome of the plug. The porcelain is clean. No problem found. No need to look around for anything if you rode it all the way home.

 

[Mr. Wright]

The day before leaving I noticed my transmission fluid was low so i added some till the full make with bike standing up right, did an oil change also added the correct amount of oil then ran the bike to let it get thru the system and added some more to the full line after it went thru the new oil coolers I used 20w-50 amsoil synthetic, added my oil pressure gauge, which I'm a little confused, after starting bike I'm running like 30 psi at idle, as the motor warms up it does lower down to about 10 psi. But I have theory on why in Gatlinburg it was at 0 psi at idle and the little bit of moving or throttling up it only moved to like 5 psi.

That is normal oil pressure readings.

 

[Ernie12]

But does it actually burn you? And the rubber melt or get so hot that when you pull it out it leaves not only a blister on your thumb and index finger but the rubber now is compressed where i grabbed it and my finger print inbedded in the rubber.

No not that hot but to hot to hold onto the metal part. I will have to get a longer ride in pretty soon to see if it gets worse.

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

No not that hot but to hot to hold onto the metal part. I will have to get a longer ride in pretty soon to see if it gets worse.

Well I talked to Eric and he thinks that my Self learning VFI is not in learn all the time, so as I went up the mountain my fuel got lean like really lean. He is suppose to be talking to a guy that knows how to turn the self learn all the time function on in protuner 2 and get back with me so we can see if mine is on or off.

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

We headed out to 90°+ environment and rode for how long? My key was so hot, on the drop, we headed home? Where my experience is within a few miles, the engine eats itself if low/no oil. But riding in a high temp, high ambient environment, the long ride home... Air Temp/Ambient Showed:
1. Enough oil where the engine shows no damage.
2. The engine took the ambient.
3. The ignition is not retarded to cause an overheating problem.
4. You couldn't ride a bike that long if it locked retarded/lean. The heat would run down the skirts, boil the oil away, being to remove skirt material. This where the many revolutions begin to eat parts as the spin snowballs, sometimes welds parts together.
5. It's not a lean mixture problem if just slightly lean due to the heat.
6. Another beauty with zero oil up the plug threads like the rings/piston took a shit? Tick is torn away skirts and each tick is the excess gap of the piston skirt slapping at the top then slapping at the bottom on the way back up... no tick right? Oil would have shown on the plug's threads. Dry as a bone however. Sell me that engine you sense is damaged.
7. You don't read a plug at the nose. But visually, lean is mean. No aluminum/gray spots from detonation starting a hole at the dome of the plug. The porcelain is clean. No problem found. No need to look around for anything if you rode it all the way home.

Do what? Speak English man..... Not shade tree mechanic. lol

 

[pknowles]

Do what? Speak English man..... Not shade tree mechanic. lol

SVEN SAID, " according to the look of your plugs and no unusal noise?, you don't have a problem". I think

 

[Mastiff Rider64]

SVEN SAID, " according to the look of your plugs and no unusal noise?, you don't have a problem". I think

My electrical covers, paint and fingers would disagee.

But thank you for your translation Lol