ENGINE BREAK IN ?

Energy One

scubaman15

Well-Known Member
This was taken off the S&S site .. I wonder how many used this method :lol:
I did change the oil in the first 50miles ...and was easy on her for the first 250miles ...then I think the first of many smiles were attached to my face :eek:
I will tell ya this my bike run's very strong and continues to delight my right hand:) and piss off my HD buds !!!


NOTE - S & S Engines require premium gasoline (octane 91 or higher) for best performance. Octane boosting gasoline additives may be necessary with marginal gasoline. CAUTION - Low octane gasoline and hot weather can cause detonation and extensive engine damage. Never try to power through ignition knock ("ping," "rattle," etc.) by opening throttle. CAUTION - If engine is run with foreign material in the oil tank, engine damage will occur. Engine damage caused by foreign material in the oil tank is not covered under the S&S warranty.Clean oil tank and oil cooler and flush or replace oil lines before installing engine in frame. Engine Break-In Procedure Note: S&S engines are designed for high performance and as such are not as tolerant of inadequate break-in as stock or lower performance engines. Correct breakin will assure longer engine life and will prevent unnecessary engine damage. Engine damage caused by improper break-in is not covered under the S&S warranty. A. Initial start up. Run engine approximately one minute at 1250-1750 rpm. DO NOT crack throttle or subject to any loads during this period as head gaskets are susceptible to failure at this time. During this time, check to see that oil pressure is normal, that oil is returning the oil tank, and that no leaks exist. B. Shut off engine and thoroughly check for any leaks or other problems. Let engine cool to the touch. C. After engine has cooled, start up again and allow the motor to build some heat. Engine should be run no longer than three to four minutes. When the cylinders become warm/ hot to the touch (approximately 150) shut the motor down and let it cool to room temp. Follow the same cautions as for the initial start-up, and continue to watch for problems. D. Repeat this procedure 3 or 4 times. Each successive time it should take slightly longer to warm up and you can increase the temp slightly each time (+10). You can be more liberal each time with the rpm, gently vary rpm continuously from idle up to 2500 rpm in the final cycle. Don�t be too concerned with final carb settings at this time because idle speed and mixture cannot be correctly set until the motor reaches full operating temperature. The motor should not reach that temperature during these cycles. Do not allow engine temperature to become excessive. After the motor has cooled to room temperature for the final time you are ready to start the 1000 mile engine break-in process. E. The first 50 miles are most critical for new rings and piston break-in. Engine damage is most likely to occur during this period. Keep heat down by not exceeding 2500 rpm. Avoid lugging the motor, riding in hot weather or in traffic. Vary the engine speed. Do not lug the engine. We recommend changing the oil at 50 miles. F. The next 500 miles should be spent running engine no faster than 3500 rpm or 60 mph. Avoid continuous steady speeds, and do not lug the engine. Vary engine rpm. We recommend changing the oil again at 500 miles. CAUTION - Lugging or running engine prematurely at sustained high rpm may result in damage to pistons and other engine components. S&S voids it's guarantee if engine is not broken in properly. G. For the balance of the first 1000 miles the motor can be run in a normal but conservative manner. You can be more liberal with the rpm range and motorcycle can be operated at normal highway speeds. Avoid overheating or putting any hard strain on the engine: no drag racing, dyno runs, excessive speed, trailer towing or sidecar operation. H. After 1000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and adjustment. Change the engine oil. Motorcycle can now be operated normally. I. Have Fun
 

KnotSo

Admin
Staff member
H. After 1000 miles, verify carburetor jetting and adjustment. Change the engine oil. Motorcycle can now be operated normally.

I. Have Fun :D:2thumbs:
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
I followed that procedure (it's in the S&S service manual) except I didn't change the oil at 50 miles but did clean the filter.

Haven't had any issues

:cheers:
 

Brew

Troop Supporter
I followed this to the T. The only thing I didn't do was change the oil at 50 miles. I did change the oil at 500 though and followed the rest. :D
 

OrangeSkullz

Active Member
Back when I ordered my AIH bike, the factory put the first 50 or so miles on all their bikes. Dealership had changed it when I picked it up with 53 miles on it I believe. I changed it at 500 and again at 1000, then at 2500 I went to Synthetic......

I've owned numerous new bikes over the years, and the instructions are pretty much the same no matter the manufacture.
 

Bowhunter

Well-Known Member
Same here, bike already had 50 miles on it new. If this technique was going to be put into practice, it had to be done at the factory since they put the initial miles on it.
 

RCAdd1ct

JAFO
On the new S&S 124 the dealer put in my SG, I followed it to the letter.

All the heat cycles and oil changes were a pain, but with all the issues I had with the 117" I did not want them blaming me for anything.

I have another 1K miles to go before they full dyno tune. (They wanted to wait until 2500 miles were on the engine.)

I can tell the timing is not right, so I really want to get the tune perfect.

Anyone have a twin cam S&S 124 timing table handy?
 

bpernie

U member
When I took the factory tour in the engine department they do these steps and after assembly is done they take them out for a run put about 25 or so miles on it and dump the oil and at this point they put on a chrome oil filter when they are going through the line they have black oil filters on them
 

toodie

Active Member
shit the more I read the more scared I get. Purchased 08 Pitbull but new only had 19 miles on it. I am up for first service right now. Actually taking it in tomorrow. The first 200 miles followed manual recommendations as best I could. Since 200 I have just tried to avoid exceeding the recommended RPMs for each gear as best I could. Heck you can go 80 miles an hour in 6th and not exceed the max recommended RPM of 3500. Again I am a total newbie to the big V-Twin world and hope that I have not damaged the engine. As far as I can tell the bike runs like a champ and have no issues. For a novice my question would be how/will I know if there has been damage??:bang:
 

Raywood

The Pirate
Staff member
Calendar Participant
Troop Supporter
shit the more I read the more scared I get. Purchased 08 Pitbull but new only had 19 miles on it. I am up for first service right now. Actually taking it in tomorrow. The first 200 miles followed manual recommendations as best I could. Since 200 I have just tried to avoid exceeding the recommended RPMs for each gear as best I could. Heck you can go 80 miles an hour in 6th and not exceed the max recommended RPM of 3500. Again I am a total newbie to the big V-Twin world and hope that I have not damaged the engine. As far as I can tell the bike runs like a champ and have no issues. For a novice my question would be how/will I know if there has been damage??:bang:
You won't ruin it. Just don't lug the motor and don't over heat it. They are pretty indestructable. Enjoy the ride.

:2thumbs:
 

V

Guru
Went by the BD manual since bike had 26 miles on it. Did change the cam and rocker arms at about 1500 miles but still did the recommened RPM's as specified (best i could anyway) :D
 

woodbutcher

Mr. Old Fart member #145
Staff member
run it in gear at a low rpm causing the bike to learch/jump. keep the rpm's up! down shift if the rpm gets below 12-1500.
 

Vegas

Well-Known Member
Not over 2500 rpm for the first 50 miles. :roll: I'm surprised letter H isn't wrap it in a silk blanket.
 

RCAdd1ct

JAFO
shit the more I read the more scared I get. Purchased 08 Pitbull but new only had 19 miles on it. I am up for first service right now. Actually taking it in tomorrow. The first 200 miles followed manual recommendations as best I could. Since 200 I have just tried to avoid exceeding the recommended RPMs for each gear as best I could. Heck you can go 80 miles an hour in 6th and not exceed the max recommended RPM of 3500. Again I am a total newbie to the big V-Twin world and hope that I have not damaged the engine. As far as I can tell the bike runs like a champ and have no issues. For a novice my question would be how/will I know if there has been damage??:bang:

I was told not to use sixth gear as it put to much load on the engine. Also to keep it to a max speed of 65 MPH from the 50-500 mile mark. Then no sixth but a 75 MPH limit taking it easy on it from 501-1K. Then take it easy on it from 1k-2500 then finish the dyno tune on it.

Bear in mind that my 113" engine failed and the 117" replacement was rebuilt 4 times. I am on an S&S 124" now.

So they are a very kid gloved with the break in.
 

Tom Chop

Active Member
Break In

Damn RCAdd1ct, how in creation did you accomplish, by my count, seven engines by warrantee??? And how did you up-grade the motor`s size also?
Poor ol American Ironhorse didn`t stand a chance up against a failure rate like that. It`s no wonder they went through liquidation and sold off their assets for pennies-on-the-dollar. Still it is a sad occurance for all of us bikers no matteer what type of bike that you ride. Any manufacturer going "belly-up" weakens our hobby/transportation mode of our choosing. But I digress.
I would like to know what is the name of your dealer? He has one hell of an influence with the claims department of your bike`s manufacturer. It makes you wonder what he caught the owner doing, if you get what I mean.
Please don`t take me too seriously for I`m just poking some fun.

Tom Chop :choppersmiley:
 

RRRUFF

Well-Known Member
I am in the process of running these heat cycles now. This is the same procedure I used last time, no big deal, just patients.
 

RCAdd1ct

JAFO
Damn RCAdd1ct, how in creation did you accomplish, by my count, seven engines by warrantee??? And how did you up-grade the motor`s size also?
Poor ol American Ironhorse didn`t stand a chance up against a failure rate like that. It`s no wonder they went through liquidation and sold off their assets for pennies-on-the-dollar. Still it is a sad occurance for all of us bikers no matteer what type of bike that you ride. Any manufacturer going "belly-up" weakens our hobby/transportation mode of our choosing. But I digress.
I would like to know what is the name of your dealer? He has one hell of an influence with the claims department of your bike`s manufacturer. It makes you wonder what he caught the owner doing, if you get what I mean.
Please don`t take me too seriously for I`m just poking some fun.

Tom Chop :choppersmiley:
OK....It is/was on my TC street glide. I picked it up from the dealer with 14 miles on it and a 113 SE kit installed with a two year dealer warranty.

In those two years it had two issues. At 16k miles it ate everything in the cam box. At 24k miles the cams went again, but this time took out everything but the heads.

Still in warranty the dealer gave me credit for all I paid on the 113 upgrade and I took that credit to build an Axtell 117" plus a bunch of my money. With this build I bought a two year warranty from the dealer.....see where this is going?

The 117 was great until it got hot out and it dumped all but 1/2 a quart of oil out in a little over 100 miles.....they rebuilt it after punching the cylinders out and getting new rings and pistons. We would change something rebuild it and it did it again, and again and again.

At this point the dealer was like S&S has this engine build program that we send them your cases and you get a full 124" engine.....deal is they hold the warranty (one year).

I accepted and paid to upgrade to diamond cut stuff. Deal was I said I would do it only if they had a map, they said no worries. Well there was no map and I am still trying to get it tuned the way I want it. I am always tweaking it as I hear tinny noises coming from the exhaust.

Now before you think I am snake bit. They sold quite a few 113" engines at the two dealerships. All of them that made it to 15k miles came apart. The issue is that the valve springs in the heads the kit came with were to heavy and it ate stuff after enough miles.

The 117"? I think we always had a detonation issue due to the parts combo. Others are using the same base kit with different cams and having good results.

Me...I am REALLY tired of tuning on this bike and think I am about to pull the EFI and put a carb on it with the IST ignition and just be done!

All I want to do is ride and I am so scared I never go anywhere other than to commute any more.

Sorry, I am rambling....

Y'all have fun and be safe.
 
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