Electrical Issue - Pulsing Tach and Loss of Spark to One Cylinder

Th3InfamousI · Jun 19, 2015

So replaced coil, then lost cylinder again but replaced The battery and it's back? That's strange. Get a new set of plug wires. I would start there since you've already have a bunch of new parts. its cheap and rules out a very easy fix. Bad plug wires will cause all of the issues you are referring to (including pulsating tach) and they can test good but add in vibrations and they may no longer be seating right. To be honest it Sounds like plug wires may have been the problem all along.

Once you get the new spark wires if that doesn't resolve you can grab a meter and review all your connections.

I'm also confused by day and night brightness on the tach? It's one brightness level just easier to read at night of course. That could be a loose wire, or still an impact from messed up plug wires causing interference with the tach signals

Bottom line: Buy new plug wires

. Check wild steed worx you need ones with RFI suppression or they can mess with the tach signal.

Sven · Jun 19, 2015

1+
Agrees with infamous. That whole spike from speedo ping to plug ping to crank sensor, it's still a 'for every action' she reverts back to AC. The bike needs a full 5v worth of running current. The battery may have been sucking up the current and not the battery putting out a solid 12.8v and that's 5+v, because there is a 0.7v spike just turning on the key is that spike happening each time the thing triggers, so imagine the math is 4.3v at a 5v system... No wonder the spark came back on with a new battery.

Even though I agree, the practical says that if the spark plug wire was faulty, no spark to the front cylinder. But it is firing off, so I think poor played out battery was more how the bike came back on line. So a fresh set of plug wires is not a bad ideal @ 16k... If we are fine tuning the system, meaning, I'd run fresh [new] wires with a fresh new coil.

The tach is anywhere from a dirty pickup [remember hall effect dowel pin being magnetic] is to find any metal clinging on to that signal pin. No damage to the tone wheel off the counter shaft sprocket bolt? If I had a parts book I'd know where is whom. So the next is to ground the tach body and see if it's bleeding thru a wire and a better ground cleans the signal?

Brew · Jun 28, 2015

Any update yet?

BWG56 · Jul 28, 2015

I had the buzzing sound the last few times I started the bike also and it would hesitate to crank, I replaced the battery and it wasn't fully charged as I was told, so I put it on a charger and then took it for a nice ride to fully charge it and I do not have the buzzing sound anymore or the hesitation to crank.

Sven · Aug 3, 2015

Ah, hindsight. The followup or debrief to myself. If it was 2 coils, replace, no, swap. See if both fire? If it was one coil, it says the coil is fine. Why? Wire in is wire out is still a single coil with 2 coil wires used out the jobber. Think... If I took one strand off rapunzel's hair, and now think of how she takes her one finger, tucks it under a lot of strands, then 'coils' it around her fingers... think that bunch is where you stick the plug wire into, look how there are only two connections to that coil is one strand of wire. So if rapunzel wrapped two coils of fingers on down to the next of that same bunch of the same strands, now you have two plug leads and still; it is one wire in and the same single wire out is rapunzel is fine, the wire up to the tag point is the chafe under the tank was a--tiny-tiny... good find, dingo.

Ah, more hindsight. Slap the top of my head icon/smilie, 'pulsing coil is tied-in to my tack pulse to ground,' says; not a perfect square wave, but a sawtooth to I do not know how many more wave combos there are? See, you are done with the fix, I am now more puzzled as to who can I place as the 'wave combo' I match 5 types of frequencies, if not 3 for sure.

Before I close this out was what did you find? I'd have me rubber gloves on, lint free in me one hand, the spray pledge or tire my shine and what is in that container, go out the bike and start cleaning the frame down, and I mean, tiny-tiny-squint the eyes and start looking for fatigue cracks... unless dingo shows where the BINGO is!? Found the crack, found the short, franco, here's another one for ya.

Th3InfamousI · Aug 3, 2015

dingo said:
Update - good news and bad news.....

The good news:

I finally got some time to recheck all the wiring and found that the front cylinder coil wire (yellow) had a tiny (I mean really really, really tiny) chaffing under the tank. Repaired the wire, bike fired right up, and problem solved.

The bad news:

While cleaning things up and zip tying the wiring under the seat, I noticed that my frame is cracked - again. Working on locating a welder to make the repair now.

Crack under the seat? That's interesting can you take pictures?

Haven't heard of that happening so high on the frame. That seat area had to be one of the least stressed areas of the entire frame. Most of the stress is in the neck and swingarm area

Man what's going with these cracked frames over the past year or so.

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

Brew · Aug 5, 2015

That's a common area! Mine cracked there some time ago. Sorry to hear about the rotten luck...

Brew · Aug 5, 2015

Better than new... Lets put it this way, my welder said he guarantied that I'll never have a crack in that spot again! The rest of the frame he said he couldn't guarantee... Bhaha

Brew · Aug 5, 2015

Sounds good, good luck!

francoblay1 · Sep 9, 2015

Well done! :old2:

Electrical Issue - Pulsing Tach and Loss of Spark to One Cylinder

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