EHC replaced through M-Unit from Motogadget

[Tim]

Ok guys, I can now give a final report on the M-unit. It works. :up:

It works REALLY good and has some cool features!!

Literally just finished about 10 hours of work on the bike, it's running, I'm going riding. I took some pics of the install and will post a write up soon.

That's awesome news, I was going to research it a bit more with my service manual when I get home next week. Congrats and I can't wait to see how you did it.

Sent from my AT100 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Thors]

Ok, quick update as I'm VERY low on sleep this weekend. The ride went well and the m-unit worked as expected. I had done exactly what bearman posted to get around the "unsplit" front/rear blinker circuits, worked like a charm. Everything was perfect...then I turned on my blinker. Still perfect. Then...I hit the brakes. Shit, shit, SHIT! I didn't even have to be behind myself to know what I would see. The whole brake/blinker circuit flashed through my head - I knew if I looked I'd have no rear blinkers with the brakes on. Think about the circuit flow and you'll see why right away. Brakes override all!

So on the 30 minute ride home I ran a shit ton of circuit designs through my head. The problem is the deliberate intermittent power of the blinker. A relay could be used...but how....hmmm. It came to me and I hit RadioCrap on the way home. A 10amp SPDT relay, 1 1000uf capacitor (or 2 or 3 depending on your relay coil draw) and a couple more diodes. Basically, the capacitor(s) are used to create a memory for the relay while the blinker is in the "off" of the on/off cycle. I will get the diagram up along with the install guide but it will take me a few days. Busy week.

Anyone wondering if the M-unit is viable, it is. With about $25 worth of electronics parts and a little know how the split blinker and blinker/brake stuff is easy handled. The unit itself it really cool. Good LED indicators for functions and easy to program. I was wondering how the "Start" button double click kill function was going to work (in the manual is states a double click of the start button shuts off the bike). All I could imagine was a running engine and then double taping the starter gear into smithereens. Turns out there is about a half second delay when you hit start so the double tap is really easy. So now I have two kill switches. Other thing I noticed: No delay in any circuits other than start. Not sure if everyone with the WP sees this, but I notices a good little delay when I hit the horn button. Also seems to be a bit of delay on the brake light and blinkers. None now. Could also have been my imagination....

More to follow

 

[Thors]

I just found this at my local auto store. [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-48845-Tail-Light-Converter/dp/B0002RNSPK]Amazon.com: Hopkins 48845 12" Tail Light Converter: Automotive[/ame]

Does exactly what I did with the above mentioned stuff and it's cheaper/easier. This one has a tail-light input which we dont need but they didn't have any of the 3 -> 2 wire converters locally.

 

[mark whitrock]

Very cool!!!

 

[paulsauto]

will this run the thunder heart ignition module, i dont see hook ups for ignition

 

[Thors]

The "aux" output handles the ignition and anything else you want to turn on/off with the kill functions. Says its rated at 16amps. I currently have my ignition there, and all running lights on the 1st position on my key.

 

[Thors]

Finally diagramed my break/tail combiner:

Basically, the break light is active on the NC(normally closed) relay contact until the blinker is activated. When that happens, the relay swings to the NO contact and passes through the blink. The 1000uF capacitor charges up during the blinkers "on" cycle and then holds the relay in that position during the "off" cycle. When the blinker stops, the relay flips back to NC. The 1000uF on my particular relay keeps the coil energized for about .75 seconds which is plenty for the blink "off" cycle. With the blinker on, the relay never flips back. The same capacitor on sample solid state relay held for about 10 seconds!

I'll get the rest of the details up as soon as I can.

 

[Oscar Maldonado]

Post some pics of this unit installed in your bike, kinda' curious.....

 

[bearman]

Thanks for the diagram Thors.

I think I'm going to go with the M-unit instead of the rewire with just relays. I really like the alarm feature that flashes the lights and horn when raised off the side stand.

 

[mark whitrock]

Yep this is the way to go,

 

[yellowjam]

Here are some pics from the mounted m-unit in my K-9. In the first pic you can see the removed crap. Thank you Mr. Coleman, you can have this piece of shit back.... The unit is mounted on a selfmade aluminium plate. The m-lock sensor is placed behind the right side cover. I put some waterproof grease on the plug in's and wires at the unit.

 

[yellowjam]

More pics

 

[mark whitrock]

Good job!!! I will be doing the same thing thanks for posting your project, I did notice you have not upgraded the battery cover mounting system it would be a good thing to do it is designed to stop the tabs on the covers from cracking.

 

[Thors]

Nice install Yellow! How did you handle the split blinker/blinker brake circuit?

 

[yellowjam]

My mechanic found a way to wire it. I did'nt know how he did and since know i did'nt removed the battery to have a closer look. I am too glad that the bike is running again.

 

[rasdes]

Yellowjam / Thors,

Any more details on the m-unit to follow, any issues so far with the install...do you plan on providing a step-by-step? I'm sure all on this forum would appreciate the efforts towards another option to the WP and PDM.

 

[Thors]

I still plan to get a writeup done but time hasn't permitted. Pretty soon I'll be pulling the battery and doing some cleanup. When I originally installed the M I just tinned the wire ends but I now have the proper wire ferrules. When I do that I'll take pics and post them along with details.

 

[Moespeeds]

Why not toss the blinker/brake light relay setup and just run the inputs into a separate badlands module? It's a tiny little thing, solid state, simple, and completely reliable. That thing looks pretty cool.

 

[Thors]

Here's a couple pics I snapped with the cellphone:

 

[Thors]

Why not toss the blinker/brake light relay setup and just run the inputs into a separate badlands module? It's a tiny little thing, solid state, simple, and completely reliable. That thing looks pretty cool.

Didn't know they had something that would handle this, thanks Moe! The relay setup is still sitting on the bench, for now I just keep an eye out behind me and hand signal if needed.

Do you happen to know a part number or have a link? Looking at their list now...