qualcorp
Member
Holly crap dude that looks like shit! I also replaced my ground wire to the bat and heat shrink on stater cable while at it. Good luck and let us know what you do-J
EHC Module Problem?
- Thread starter xxcarpxx
- Start date
francoblay1
The Spaniard
Gezzzz sounds like it gave you a bit of hard time!!!
xxcarpxx
Member
That would be safe to say..haha
Gosh man! Did you try tying a string and GENTLY pulling it through? Throw a little Teflon lube down the backbone and wipe on the harness? It all should fit without having to do that.
BadDawg Bill
Well-Known Member
Gezz.... Read the sig guys....
xxcarpxx
Member
I did try with a thin wire, with no luck.. Feeding the wires was no problem, the problem was getting the Terminals to pull down through the port... Opening the port wasn't my first choice but after a few hours of sweating and cussing I was ready to do anything..ha
xxcarpxx
Member
xxcarpxx
Member
1+
Same-same, you want anything but air and water touching the pins. Why? Eyes gots me 3 basics down.
1. Magnetic field throughout the wire.
2. Heat cooks the air at the pins.
3. Chemical reaction are the green/white leftovers on the battery posts, pins, wire is pull the wire back and see the green near the copper wire ends for example.
WATT would cause my battery to die after being in a downpour? Condensation is now air has a corrosive buddy gone green. A water drop is hello other pin and now a conductor to transfer a hot pin [key off], to a jobber is ground or it shorts, right? So dead battery it is.
But if you had vaseline smashed in between the pins is water is not going to find a path is more roll off the grease. No condensation to cause green male to green female pins is now it's a green-green contact and dead is the good Ebox you go swapping a good know pin = Chem Reaction... think preventive maintenance.
Let me get that photo correct, xx. Do I see lit LED lights replaced by pins? So you cannot install a connector there like you can the other side without LED's? And how is A-B short with or without power is how are you reading this? Are you seeing a burnt part or that square black thing thru the bake? Where are you seeing a short, black burnt area, raised [over heated] bake, etc?
xxcarpxx
Member
There may be some slight confusion about the Rain.. When The Dog died it was not raining..Perfect dry weather. While waiting on the Tow Truck a Thunder Storm moved in....
When I pulled A & B Connectors there was still plenty of Dialectic Grease...
I used a battery out of another bike and was able to get a voltage reading (I cant remember the reading at this time) When I touched the Leads off on the New battery I was seeing what I thought was a LED between A & B Connectors... Thinking there shouldn't be a light there I pulled the Backbone Connector. When that was removed I could see what I thought was a LED Light was actually an arc flash between circuits.. In the Attached pic you'll see the black arc I have circled..
Attachments
francoblay1
The Spaniard
Thanks Franco. No xx, that was more for the variables that could happen to rain/condensation/sitting for decades. We could not get an old bike started. I dipped the main harness connector end into vinegar, then dropped the jobber's connector into vinegar, washed it off with water, reconnected and the bike started. One example of chem react.
Good find, xx. If the mboard is not burnt from the bottom, you replace that chip by snipping off the legs and then solder the legs of the new chip [in the right direction] and she should start right back up... in theory... Is have the A B signaling as per. Try not to scrap the chip to see the manu or part #. It has to be wired as per the 8 legs and per [heat] resistance.
So are we seeing the weak link to the Ebox? Where are all the shelved Eboxes? Looks simple a fix if in the same place and most are burnt with that cheap integrated chip there?
Good find, xx. If the mboard is not burnt from the bottom, you replace that chip by snipping off the legs and then solder the legs of the new chip [in the right direction] and she should start right back up... in theory... Is have the A B signaling as per. Try not to scrap the chip to see the manu or part #. It has to be wired as per the 8 legs and per [heat] resistance.
So are we seeing the weak link to the Ebox? Where are all the shelved Eboxes? Looks simple a fix if in the same place and most are burnt with that cheap integrated chip there?
xxcarpxx
Member
I did save the Box... I was planning to let one of my Electronic Technicians from work mess with it...
As you mentioned, it would be interesting to see if others have had failure on the same chip...
DRBarnhart
Insert title here...
I would guess they have considering this EHC (170-000001-00) was recalled years ago...
Dennis
Well after all that and bashing Wire Plus did you ever get the bike started, if you did I guess I missed that part of the conversation. My 8 year old wire plus is still working. Hope the RIP will work for you.
Carlos
Carlos
xxcarpxx
Member
I never bashed the Wires Plus kit... I dont have enough experience to say any kit is better than the other...although it seems to be a recurring theme of bad Customer Service...
I did fire the Dog up last night.. and let him stretch his legs on a 30+ mile loop today... I tried to post a video..but have to chop the size down, I guess....
Knowing what I think I know now.. one of the things that turns people away from the Wires Plus kit, is the JST connection aren't pinned...Correct??? If so, I would have rather went with a kit that I Pinned after I fed the Backbone harness...that it where I had the most trouble....due to the JST terminals....
The RIP kit could have had a little better instructions for dumb asses like mysef... but I can say it was basically plug and play...
I do have a couple of issues that have come up... My blinker indicator on the Dash has a dim light to it... and the RPM does not show any lights at all.... (the Tach is the first thing I lost power to when the Dog shut down)... I'll work on those issues shortly... for now, I needed some wind therapy...