EFM Autoclutch

[TapioK]

Tapio did you have drams setting up the adjustment of the cable.
Where does the "spring" go to keep the clutch lever in it's open position?

I did not have any spring for lever, it was totally slack under 1100 rpm rhen moved "out" with rising rpm. That made me remember! I did put some tape to keep the cable on adjuster in the middle of cable! Sinse cable is slack the cable cover moves up and may get stuck on "adjuster sleeve". Hope you get my clumsy explanation.
Not sure what you mean by drams? If I remember correctly I just made the lever to have tiny slack when rpm was like 3000, just like it is normally. Did that by first checking the lever as by efm instructions then observing the lever while riding, then just adjusted a bit. That was no problem.
Only springs I had were those pulling the press plate "open" I ended having two spring plates facing away from each other like this )( to get rid of creeping on iddle. Also I put very thin washers between aluminium and springs, was thinking those washers eating them selves to aluminium...
There is a bit of leeway adjusting everything, like I did not have half the first plate hanging halfway out of inner hub. I was worried it may fall out! Specially since it seemed to stuck to pressure plate on dry clutch... at least on my bike it worked well and there was enough movement on pressure plate to press the pack tight.
All this tinkering was pretty easy on open primary


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[JeffM]

Wish you mentioned all this during past posts, i just purchased the bloody thing!!!!!!!!!!!! $980 AU with postage.
So now i have to add shit to it to get it to work correctly.
Not easy for me in a wet clutch set up.
Can you PM me any pic's you have please.
Also you rubber cover moved up on adjuster, how is that possible?
On you inner hub, it looks like you have machined it level with the clutch disc pack, is this correct?

Thank you for you help.

 

[TapioK]

Wish you mentioned all this during past posts, i just purchased the bloody thing!!!!!!!!!!!! $980 AU with postage.
So now i have to add shit to it to get it to work correctly.
Not easy for me in a wet clutch set up.
Can you PM me any pic's you have please.
Also you rubber cover moved up on adjuster, how is that possible?
On you inner hub, it looks like you have machined it level with the clutch disc pack, is this correct?

Thank you for you help.

You do not need to buy anything extra, there was enough if those "what ever you call them" springs
I did not machine the hub, I just adjusted the pack with the steels and friction plates the way I liked it more. Against EFM instructions since I measured the movement of the pressure plate and figured there is enough movement to press the pack tight even is pack is bit deeper in. It may well be different in different bikes?
The "condom" did not move, when there is no tension on lever and cable the cover of the actual cable can move like 5mm up and "jump out" of the middle adjuster.inside the condom, maybe my "condom" is bit loose . Don't worry, it will all be clear once you get the parts and install them.just install everything according the instructions and all will be OK.
It may even be that the set is nowadays bit different, Who knows.
All the tinkering comes to play if you want to adjust the exact rpm point when the clutch grips or how the lever feels etc. I just had too much time and easy access to clutch with open primary.
Hell, maybe mine broke because the movement of the pressure plate was too big! And not because of overheating or open primary....


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[JeffM]

Ok, well the EFM saga continues.
After emailing Garry at EFM and placing an order, paying for the product on the 10-06, today i finally coaxed a return email from him.
Not too happy with service so far, in my email i asked for a tracking number and dispatch details again.
Lord be praised i got a return email almost 2 weeks after sending $900 AU for his product.
All i have ever got is one liners before, the tracking number is through USPS and it won't let me access it because i am not in the USA, WTF!!!!
Never happened before.
So as you can all imagine i am fairly pissed off, i will let it play out for another week and see if it turns up.
If this is his service what is his follow up/ warranty worth? Unlimited warranty not worth much to someone on the opposite side of the world relying on good faith and as much info as possible.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Ok, well the EFM saga continues.
After emailing Garry at EFM and placing an order, paying for the product on the 10-06, today i finally coaxed a return email from him.
Not too happy with service so far, in my email i asked for a tracking number and dispatch details again.
Lord be praised i got a return email almost 2 weeks after sending $900 AU for his product.
All i have ever got is one liners before, the tracking number is through USPS and it won't let me access it because i am not in the USA, WTF!!!!
Never happened before.
So as you can all imagine i am fairly pissed off, i will let it play out for another week and see if it turns up.
If this is his service what is his follow up/ warranty worth? Unlimited warranty not worth much to someone on the opposite side of the world relying on good faith and as much info as possible.

Whats the tracking #? I will look it up for you

 

[JeffM]

tracking number. www.usps.com
LC056749608US
This shipped 10-12.
Thanks Eric, much appreciated.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

tracking number. www.usps.com
LC056749608US
This shipped 10-12.
Thanks Eric, much appreciated.

Sorry brother looks like USPS can't track packages to Australia? That's fucking weird.

With all that said nobodies reported anything negative about the product or service. I think you'll be fine.

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[JeffM]

Thanks Eric.
Yep thats the same response i got. I have never had a problem with USPS tracking before Curtis and others have sent me stuff over the years.
Anywho thanks for trying.

 

[pauly]

Just my two cents worth Jeff - this has happened to me recently as well!
I could only track items while in transit in U.S. after that it did not show jack shit.

Paul.

 

[Nཛ͢ཀཇཧ༏ཧי]

When I send stuff to Indonesia the tracking ends at Chicago. And USPS is horribly slow. For future reference, FEDEX non expedited service is competitive on rates, is three times faster & provides tracking.

 

[JeffM]

Well the EFM clutch has finally arrived, i am at work and the primary is draining.
I will attack it this afternoon when i get home, remove the centre hub and remove the 4 spigots, match it up as per the very vague instructions and try and drill and tap the holes without removing the basket.
I will try one hole only, if successful i will do the rest if not i will pull apart and do in a bench/pedestal drill or cnc mill.
Adjusting the "springs" will be the next challenge, although i am getting my head around it now i have seen the kit supplied (no instructions sent). Will be fun in a wet clutch, will try with cover off firstly.
The clutch lever flopping about will give me the shits, i hope i can resolve this, any ideas guy's?

 

[TapioK]

Well the EFM clutch has finally arrived, i am at work and the primary is draining.
I will attack it this afternoon when i get home, remove the centre hub and remove the 4 spigots, match it up as per the very vague instructions and try and drill and tap the holes without removing the basket.
I will try one hole only, if successful i will do the rest if not i will pull apart and do in a bench/pedestal drill or cnc mill.
Adjusting the "springs" will be the next challenge, although i am getting my head around it now i have seen the kit supplied (no instructions sent). Will be fun in a wet clutch, will try with cover off firstly.
The clutch lever flopping about will give me the shits, i hope i can resolve this, any ideas guy's?

Well I had my springs like this )( no problem with slipping and if memory serves me right it did "open" around 1300 rpm. Witch I liked best. Coming to traffic lights you pull the lever, wait rpm to drop and just coast to stop.
Lever will feel and look weird for a few days, but remember it will stiffen around 1300 rpm.


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[JeffM]

Tapio, did you have to adjust the clutch rod much?
Take it in till it touches, then back it out 1/4 turn?

 

[TapioK]

Shit if I remember! I do remember it wasn't ¼ with open primary I could actually see and feel the free play on rod from the clutch side, so I went more by feel. My thinking was, since my pack was deeper in basket than EFM recommended I had less than ¼ turn. That is not crucial and you can go by feel. Just make sure there is not too much free play or the lever has problem to open the clutch with rpm.


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[JeffM]

Well it is done, left work early today and set about installing the eagerly anticipated EFM into my 08 K9.
Took me an hour, with the right tools and facility to machine the 4 bolt spigots off the inner hub and drill and tap the 6 holes on the outer, piece of piss.
Put everything back, left the primary cover so i could bath my shed in oil and test the adjustment.
Followed everyone's advise, even Boo's and found i had to install the 6 extra springs to aid in releasing the clutch. This achieved i then played with the rod, some would say i do too much of this, but i digress.
I kept winding it out till i had no movement from stationary at idle, it starts to move around 1500-1800 revs.
The clutch is limper than me on a cold morning, even at rev's (although not over 3000 rpm) i still have 1" of free (see loose) clutch lever. I tried to adjust it out using the cable adjuster, but that changed the clutch engagement.
Oh woow is me, any ideas?

 

[TapioK]

Well it is done, left work early today and set about installing the eagerly anticipated EFM into my 08 K9.
Took me an hour, with the right tools and facility to machine the 4 bolt spigots off the inner hub and drill and tap the 6 holes on the outer, piece of piss.
Put everything back, left the primary cover so i could bath my shed in oil and test the adjustment.
Followed everyone's advise, even Boo's and found i had to install the 6 extra springs to aid in releasing the clutch. This achieved i then played with the rod, some would say i do too much of this, but i digress.
I kept winding it out till i had no movement from stationary at idle, it starts to move around 1500-1800 revs.
The clutch is limper than me on a cold morning, even at rev's (although not over 3000 rpm) i still have 1" of free (see loose) clutch lever. I tried to adjust it out using the cable adjuster, but that changed the clutch engagement.
Oh woow is me, any ideas?

Ooh, we would use Sven to talk about variables here!

~What effects the clutch opening/closing rpm range?

Resistance of the sprigs, plate to disks movement range.

How to change the resistance / or make it non-linear?

You can install springs 3 ways: ( , (( or )( . Or a combination of those on different holes. I think I tried all sprigs like this: ((, but ended having all like this )(. That had less creeping on idle, actually I had none.
Having springs back to back and spooning on alternate holes may well lower the needed rpm and still give enough resistance to open the clutch nicely.
Add the thickness of the pack to the game, less movement on EFM pressure plate (thicker pack), lower the needed rpm

~What effects the lever movement range?

Pressure plate movement range, Rod adjustment and cable adjustment.

My thinking went like:
How much plate needs to move to close and open the pack?
How much pulling the lever can move the rod?

~How to find desired free play on lever?

I adjusted the cable length while engine running around 3000rpm to have about 1-2mm slack on lever, just like you have with original setup. You do not need to rev the engine like crazy for minutes, final adjustment can be done on test ride. Lever should use the whole movement range it has though.
Say freeplay on lever is fine, but lever doesn't go all the way to the grip:
Turn rod open a bit or
Replace one steel with thinner to increase the pressure plate movement range.

My way of thinking is not always linear and I may make things too complicated... Boo is tearing his hair out by now

I also ended up using polish and made those ramps shine like a mirror, thought less resistance on balls is always better and it may prevent dust to collect there. Don't really know if it made any difference, specially on wet clutch.

Sorry if my way of saying things is a bit hard to follow, remember English is not my first language and I don't know or always remember the correct words... not to mention the grammar!





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[JeffM]

Thanks Tapio "AGAIN".
I did run it up to 3000 rpm and my mate adjusted the cable length, but the bike started to move.
Adjusting the rod length and or adjusting the cable seems to do the same thing, there doesn't seem to be a "back one off and move the other scenario".
I have the springs )), that seems to be working and moving the bike at about the correct revs.
Also i used all of my clutch pack, none left over 9 friction plates if i recall.
I have washed the crap off the bike so i will test ride this morning.
If you don't here from me send help LOL.

 

[FrankBDPS]

Do you have AAA in Australia?

 

[JeffM]

RACQ to be exact, same same.
Joined them the day the Dog arrived. See i did do research prior to buying.
Never had the need.................yet.
Today may be the day

 

[TapioK]

Send me ticket and I came saving you!


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