EFM Autoclutch

Energy One

TapioK

Well-Known Member
This is the inner hub!
SO i will have to machine down the inner hub to allow the EFM clutch pack to sit inside and bolt up to "outer hub sprocket (item 28 in the manual).
The EMF replaces items 14,15,16 & 17 in the manual.
This will mean i will have less discs and plates in my clutch pack..........

Efm "sits outside" of the inner hub. It has to sit flat to inner hub for it's "pressure plate" to push plates. You send basket and inner hub to EFM and they make the mods needed.
If I remember correctly you have as many plates as before. BD used 9 or 11 frictions them self, if you will have 9 it is not a big deal. EFM has a huge grip, it will not slip


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TapioK

Well-Known Member
Look my pics on page 2 and you'll see how it will look and sit. There is the same amount of plates as in original.


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JeffM

Active Member
# 40 does not have any pic's.
There are pic's of an open primary, are these the ones your referring to .
 

TapioK

Well-Known Member
Odd. On my phone page 2 post #40 has pics of my clutch. You can see open primary too. Sorry for that. This thread has become a dead horse, I wonder if there is anything to add into this subject. I suppose you just have to make your mind, you either get one or not. Wait, there is also Recluse autoclutch! That is supposed to be pretty good.


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JeffM

Active Member
Sorry Tapio, as you can understand by our isolation to the USA we need to be very aware that what we get is serviceable and fit for purpose.
We just can't ring someone up or hop in the car and go to someone around the corner.
I want to be VERY sure this is what i need and that I can fit it, service it and not have issues, so i need to (in my mind) understand completely how it fits and works. I would rather ask a lot of questions and be thought a fool, than not ask and be proven so!

As for the Recluse, it look very complicated to install.

I DO appreciate ALL responses i receive.................except Sven :crazybitch:

Just joking, i'm sure he is very wise.................in a special needs kind of way:oldbang:
 

TapioK

Well-Known Member
Didn't remember you are from Australia
Actually Recluse for Harley is very easy to install (at least in their video) no mods, just bolts on.
I believe you could get mods for EFM made rather easily in Australia, not sure about the warranty though. Sending basket and inner hub to USA may take some time before it returns...
There is nothing much to service on EFM. If it goes bad, it is pretty much toast. Not too many parts to go bad though


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TapioK

Well-Known Member
Don't think Recluse actually have a model for Big Dog... haven't look. I think Carlos has one in his wife's trike


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JeffM

Active Member
That is what i meant by complicated, would take a big mod to fit Rekluse.
So looks like a EFM is the way to go for the Dog.
Spoke to my machine shop supervisor, showed him the pic's, he was confident he could acheive what is required for machining. He bloody should, christ there spitting put more complicated work than this.
But this mine, not some nobody at the end of the phone. Has to be RIGHT.
Thanks everyone.:old2:
 

pauly

Active Member
Jeff, I bought used EFM clutch from Carlos (Little-Boo) a while back, bit haven't
got around to installing it yet. If Garry from EFM gives you the details on the machining,
could you please pass the info? It would be much appreciated.

Paul.
 

JeffM

Active Member
Yeah i may even do a video on how to fit it, not too sure what if any info he supplies, it may be a trail and error or i will have to do a shitload of measurements.
Still to 100% decide, as i got some serious bill's yesterday, so that may slow me down again till i can build up the play funds again.
 

TapioK

Well-Known Member
Once you have the parts, it takes 15 minutes, bit more with closed primary.


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JeffM

Active Member
Here are the instructions which ill send also in case you wanted to read them.
TAKE THE DRIVE HUB AND CUT THE BOSSES OFF THE TOP.
THE MOST IMPORTANT THING IS THAT THE DRIVE HUB IS BELOW THE LAST FIBRE PLATE BY AROUND 1/2 THE CLUTCH PLATE THICKNESSES.
THE AUTO CLUTCH SHOULD NEST INTO THE BASKET WITH THE 4 LOCATORS. RUN SOME BLACK TAPE AROUND THE OUTSIDE OF THE AUTO UNIT TO THE BASKET. TAKE A 13/64 DRILL AND SPOT THE 12 HOLES.
REMOVE THE TAPE AND AUTO UNIT AND DRILL FOR A 10/32 SCREW WHICH ARE SUPPLIED IN THE BAG.
NORMALLY WE USE A 5/32 DRILL .156, BUT SOME OF THE BASKETS WE DRILL ON THE BAKER ARE REALLY TUFF, SO WE USE A NUMBER DRILL 5 OR 6 THOUSANDTHS BIGGER TO HELP IN TAPPING.
AFTER YOU TAP THE HOLES, ADJUST THE STACK SO WHEN YOU PUSH DOWN ON THE 6 SCREWS IN THE CENTRE IT MOVES AROUND .055 -.06. USING THE THICK AND THIN PLATES SUPPLIED.
ADJUST THE CLUTCH LEVER SO WHEN ITS PULLED IN, IF IT’S A CABLE CLUTCH, AGAINST THE HANDLEBAR, YOU TURN THE PUSH ROD ADJUSTER TILL IT PUSHES OUT THE LEVER SLIGHTLY.
THE LEVER MUST HAVE FREE PLAY ALL THE WAY TO THE BAR WHEN THE MOTOR IS NOT RUNNING. INSTALL A SPRING LIKE SHOWN IN THE PICTURE IF YOU WANT THE LEVER OUT.

This is the instructions for installation.
 

kyle

Member
so having a blonde moment here...first my disclaimer first i am seeing of these

so if installed this means no more clutching or no more shifting?
 

TapioK

Well-Known Member
Well you will still use clutch while sifting gears, but it will be one finger deal. Once rmp is under say 1300 (depending how you adjust it and how you set up the small springs) the clutch opens. From there it grips when you give throttle.



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TapioK

Well-Known Member
It is pretty cool on traffic lights or say in parade etc. you can have bike on 1st, and it takes off just giving some throttle


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JeffM

Active Member
Tapio did you have drams setting up the adjustment of the cable.
Where does the "spring" go to keep the clutch lever in it's open position?
 
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