EFM Autoclutch

Energy One

stlmikie

I wish I had more money.
So do you still have the set up?



500-600 miles on the BDL top fuel.

Max was 800 miles.

Two tow trucks later I went back to stock.

Main deal is to let the clutch dust out. The BDL has no venting. If it was vented it would be better.

Rows of vent holes in the outer clutch hub would do it, but I just went back to stock instead as it was no longer going to be a commuter.
 

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
so carlos you use no lubricant on the balls??? just steel on alum??
You have to "visualize" that I don't attend the same kind of parties that Tapiok does so no K-Y on the balls is needed :roll: :roll:

On a serious note, I run it just like it came out of the box with no lube. When I took it apart to clean I used brake cleaner and did not use any kind of anti seize. May not last long steel on aluminum, but it has a life time warranty. I was never instructed to add lube on the balls. I know of some guy who drilled tiny 1/16 holes on high part of the clutch basket to help blow the dust out but that didn't help either. I am going to continue with mine and if the problem continues or get worse I will go back to the stocker. Wold I get another, only for a wet primary. My wife has a Rekluse automatic clutch on her trike. I have never taken that apart to clean and it works great.

Carlos :whoop:
 

RCAdd1ct

JAFO
So do you still have the set up?
Sitting in a box, yes.

AIH is down right now. I got a dual coil setup from vulcan works only to find out AIH has a custom offset for the upper mount.

So I sent the original mount and their mount back to them on their request so they could mod mine and have more for other AIH customers.

They lost it internally and then they asked for a shipping address......now they won't pick up the phone, it just rings. :eek:

Hoping for a Christmas miracle as no other top mount will fit.
 

RCAdd1ct

JAFO
You have to "visualize" that I don't attend the same kind of parties that Tapiok does so no K-Y on the balls is needed :roll: :roll:

On a serious note, I run it just like it came out of the box with no lube. When I took it apart to clean I used brake cleaner and did not use any kind of anti seize. May not last long steel on aluminum, but it has a life time warranty. I was never instructed to add lube on the balls. I know of some guy who drilled tiny 1/16 holes on high part of the clutch basket to help blow the dust out but that didn't help either. I am going to continue with mine and if the problem continues or get worse I will go back to the stocker. Wold I get another, only for a wet primary. My wife has a Rekluse automatic clutch on her trike. I have never taken that apart to clean and it works great.

Carlos :whoop:
Garry told me to use 3in1 oil or some other machine oil. One drop on each ramp.

He thought the aluminum might be oily enough to run them dry, but that did not work.

I would do one of them in a wet primary in a heartbeat, or for a bar hopper, but never for a commuter.

I was doing 500 mile in a week easy sometimes. That was a lot of take apart, clean and reassemble. Also if you get in a big rain storm he suggested you clean it as soon as possible.

Again, alright for a fair weather bike, but not commuting.

I was trying to think of a way to have the weights outside the clutch drum so you could clean and lube without diss-assembly....I just gave up and pulled it.
 

Brew

Troop Supporter
So, from what I'm getting from you guys is that the EMF clutch set-up would be best used for closed primaries, especially if you use your scoot to commute to and from work. I put about 500 miles on my scoot in one week going to and from work. Thanks for providing us with your input fellas...:D :2thumbs:
 

RCAdd1ct

JAFO
So, from what I'm getting from you guys is that the EMF clutch set-up would be best used for closed primaries, especially if you use your scoot to commute to and from work. I put about 500 miles on my scoot in one week going to and from work. Thanks for providing us with your input fellas...:D :2thumbs:
Well it depends.

It is all in the primary you get. If it traps the dust in by covering the whole clutch drum then you might need to clean it on a regular basis.

The distance between cleanings differs on each model......none of them are the same, just like none of the manufacturers make the primaries the same.
 

Brew

Troop Supporter
What would be your thoughts running the EMF with a 4" Karata set-up? Do you think I would have the same issue? I do have the outer bearing support also...
 

RCAdd1ct

JAFO
Only thing I can say is ask Garry for a picture of it for that specific application. If there is an exit for the dust it might work.

Garry is a very good man to deal with. He is patient and is willing to do whatever to make the customer happy. I probably could have made mine work with his help machining vents and a small redesign, but life got in the way and I needed a stock vehicle that was dependable and I dropped all projects.

My lightning has not moved since last Christmas other than to get it out of the way when the tree next door had to come down. Sometimes family gets all your time. Oh well. It can always be worse.
 

Brew

Troop Supporter
Only thing I can say is ask Garry for a picture of it for that specific application. If there is an exit for the dust it might work.

Garry is a very good man to deal with. He is patient and is willing to do whatever to make the customer happy. I probably could have made mine work with his help machining vents and a small redesign, but life got in the way and I needed a stock vehicle that was dependable and I dropped all projects.

My lightning has not moved since last Christmas other than to get it out of the way when the tree next door had to come down. Sometimes family gets all your time. Oh well. It can always be worse.
True and I understand other priorities, been there and I do that...:D Your input is very valuable and much appreciated...:2thumbs:
 

bearman

Active Member
As far as the EFM auto clutch goes, I have the stock Big Dog primary and mine works great. Sent it out to Gary with the used clutch pack and got it back ready to install, never had to pull the clutch pack apart. Just took out the circlip that holds in the bearing retainer, pulled the retainer and bearing out, and was able to get a big socket on the nut and pulled it with an air impact gun.
I did have a problem when I decided to install new clutches plates about 6 months later. I installed the new plates where the last installed steel could come out past the end of the hub, and it hung up. It also marred the end of my hub. I remedied this problem by trading this last steel for another friction disk, so now from the pressureplate in, I have 3 friction discs before the first steel then alternate until the last thick steel. Now I have a 10 plate clutch instead of a 12 or the new 9 plate clutch. And it works better than it ever did.
 

Black Rider

Active Member
Just picked my dog from the mechanic. EFM installed. I love it. Good thing is now I have a choice to manually shift or just kick the lever.
 

JeffM

Active Member
Boy, it sound like a bit of a fickle set up, some love em others not so much.

The EFM web site is a waste of time, so to you my well informed brothers on the other side of the world, it seems like the stock clutch basket has to be removed and sent to EFM for machining, when it is returned it has all the "bit's" assembled and ready to install in your primary, install cover, add oil, adjust clutch cable and rod and the go play.
Sounds simple yes?
This machining of the hub, could it be done by someone with a good lathe and some clear instructions and drawings, or is it part of the magic that EFM have to machine it to their spec?
Other than that it sound like something i may be interested in.
 

RCAdd1ct

JAFO
Boy, it sound like a bit of a fickle set up, some love em others not so much.

The EFM web site is a waste of time, so to you my well informed brothers on the other side of the world, it seems like the stock clutch basket has to be removed and sent to EFM for machining, when it is returned it has all the "bit's" assembled and ready to install in your primary, install cover, add oil, adjust clutch cable and rod and the go play.
Sounds simple yes?
This machining of the hub, could it be done by someone with a good lathe and some clear instructions and drawings, or is it part of the magic that EFM have to machine it to their spec?
Other than that it sound like something i may be interested in.
He is doing it as a service to his customers.

Email him. He is VERY customer oriented.
 

bearman

Active Member
The installation process is more like this:

Install assembled basket in your primary, install primary cover without inspection plate, adjust clutch cable way loose, do not add oil yet, crank up and check for proper operation (everything will be fine without primary oil for a short time), if too tight or too loose, take cover back off, adjust clutch pack thickness with included thickness plates (you do NOT have to remove whole basket for this, just the auto clutch part), re-install cover, make sure clutch cable is still way loose, crank up and check for proper operation, add oil, adjust clutch cable
- and then go try to break it.

The machining just consists of drilling and tapping the perimeter outside face of the hub so that the new centrifugal pressure plate will bolt onto the old hub, not difficult for any machine shop, but definitely not doable by hand. Maybe he also has to measure the thickness of the clutch pack to make the pressure plate the correct thickness, but I would think that he would have the correct measurements for our clutches by now.

Now that I have mine correctly installed, I think it’s the best thing since sliced bread.

No, I haven't broke mine yet, and yes, I have tried.
 
I want one bad but no moola
I emailed them about becoming a vendor but I guess they weren't interested as I could never get them to get back to me.
 

JeffM

Active Member
Garry emailed me back promptly with some information which did help.......a bit. Bear you have done the best explanation that mear mortals can understand, including me thanks.

Garry wants a pic of my primary to be sure it is what i say it is as apparently there a couple of types of primary covers, 1st i heard of this. Anyway the cost is ok i guess considering a "lifetime warranty" which is next to usless over here, but at least it has one and sounds like he stands behind his product............good for him!!!!!!
I like the idea of cracking the throttle and hanging on, sounds like my kinda fun.

Probably get it before wet season, to install while we have 2 months of rain., like snow but warmer.
 

bearman

Active Member
Some clearance info came with mine (about maybe having to grind some metal off the inside of the primary cover for clearance), but on my 2006 Masiff I didn’t have to modify anything. I had about an inch of clearance between the clutch and the primary cover. I would assume that all the right side drive models would be the same (with the stock Baker clutch).
 
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