ECM problem electrical issue

HMAN

HMAN

I just like my Freedom
Supporting Member
Yup yup. If its toast, the best fix is the replace with a known good ECH, ie; Electronix Box from HDM, or another one is a doc box. Other options are out there. The one you have, may have released all its magic smoke and that company is no longer in business.
 
Jersey Big Mike

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
LambChop04 said:
Yeah I was riding back the other night I stopped and got fuel and when I was getting on the interstate under acceleration it died on me but I didn't lose power after a closer inspection I noticed that the two leads that are kind of booty together that go to the transmission had came off of its connectors That's what I thought huh simple fix you know a kickback whatever but that wasn't the case. It acted like it was going to turn over for a few minutes and from there it just got even more Goofy by the passing minutes, as of now it won't even try to start but I have power basically everywhere except for the tail lights won't work or the blinker the headlight is on but no high beam to switch
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First thing is to check the battery -- charge it up and have it load tested.
Many parts have been replaced when the real culprit was the battery.
When fully charged the battery should read 12.8v, if it's less, it's going bad or is bad.
Consensus on here is the best choice is a Deka -- we have seen many a claim of "oh got this special battery- its better" -- Usually doesn't work out.

The wires going to the transmission from the electronics are the Neutral switch for you indicator light.

Check the headlight manually (open it up and use multimeter to see if the HB element is good. Recommend replacing it with LED ( Sunpie or similar daymaker on amazon -- usually around $40 or less) Check the socket in the headlight bucket -- these have been known to cause issues. Should be a good ceramic one not plastic

After charging and testing battery report back.
Provide as much detail as possible -- things you take for granted we are unaware of.
ie
turned key
checked voltage
hit run/stop
press start (never hold for more than 3 seconds)
report what it did (did you hear click of Compression releases, did it spin like normal
If it spun and did not start, check for spark and fuel
check cam sensor if no spark.
 
knothead

knothead

Second Chance Customs
If you do all the above and it ends up being the wire plus unit gone bad i have one off MastiffDave's bike that was working fine...i took it off his bike back this past winter and completely rewired his bike...i will sell it to you for 100.00 free shipping...now with that said you will eventually have to rewire and go with a ehc of your liking but this will get you by till then if you didnt want to do this rewire job during riding season
 
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LambChop04

Member
You bet man I appreciate all you guys help, go down through the list the battery check okay when I turn the key on the headlight comes on along with the Park lights but there's no brake lights I can't turn the high beam on or off and the blinkers won't work, the last but not least it will not crank. End up until this point there have been no signs of it fragmentation or with the electronics before hand. I'll admit I wash the bike at least once a week, but I prepare for that with something over my electronics over the starter just to keep them as dry as I can
 
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LambChop04

Member
There are no indicator lights on either the Thoroughbred or the other unit with a light where before it would indicate what was going on as far as when you turn the key on it would blink when you hit the run button it would blink the starter etc none of that happens now
 
Jersey Big Mike

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
LambChop04 said:
You bet man I appreciate all you guys help, go down through the list the battery check okay when I turn the key on the headlight comes on along with the Park lights but there's no brake lights I can't turn the high beam on or off and the blinkers won't work, the last but not least it will not crank. End up until this point there have been no signs of it fragmentation or with the electronics before hand. I'll admit I wash the bike at least once a week, but I prepare for that with something over my electronics over the starter just to keep them as dry as I can
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When you wash the bike, do you cover the handlebar switches as well? These are tempermental little suckers and you might want to check them stareting with right side (run/off switch especially)
As for the headlight, open the bucket and check that the low beam hasn't burnt out, then check the handle bar switch is working.
 
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LambChop04

Member
Yeah I've noticed some discrepancy and both upper controls on the handlebar so I won't start there without $150 package for the controls and the plastics that go over it. I previously fixed the electrical issues up underneath the tank and we're coming to the back bone backbone
 
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LambChop04

Member
Can you go back up to that first picture where I have the black box in my hand, I'd sure like to know what that is. One s EHC, one is ignition control module, so what's that make the third
 
knothead

knothead

Second Chance Customs
The black box is the wireplus computer. The other is the wire plus switching module and ofcoursenthe other one is the ignition module
 
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LambChop04

Member
Ok, wow. Lol. Well since my ignition module seems to be a acting as normal it would be the switching module then that is no longer lighting up what I would assume to be giving me the problems.
 
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