Brandon Downey
Active Member
This is a pretty straight forward installation. It took about 30 minutes. Here is an exploded view of the 2004 and up speedometer to start things off. Thanks Wild Steed Worx for providing the exploded view.
Here is what I received in the mail:
The first thing you'll want to do is protect your gas tank from damage or scratches. I covered mine with a nice soft cleaning towel.
Turn your handlebars all the way to the left (this provides a little more room to work).
Next remove the two (2) Allen Head bolts shown in the picture below (see arrows). They are 5/32.
Once those two Allen Head bolts are removed, the speedometer cluster will be free from it's mount.
There is plenty of slack in the cable, and you'll need to pull some of it through in order to access the next Allen Head bolt that needs removed.
Remove the below Allen Head bolt. It's a tiny one. I believe it was a 5/64".
Once this bolt is removed the speedometer cluster can be separated.
NOTE: There is a small spacer inside between the speedometer outer cup housing and the inner mounting bracket. It's number 16 on the exploded view above. You can see a small portion of it in the above picture.
Next unplug the old speedometer wire plug below (yes that's the new one, but you get the point).
Now unbolt the two (2) nylon nuts holding the old speedometer to the inner mounting bracket. They are 11/32".
There are notches on the mounting bracket, so you can't mis-align the new speedometer when putting it back in.
Once you have installed the new speedometer and aligned the mounting bracket in it's notches, use the nuts supplied with your new Dakota Digital speedometer. The installation instructions show nuts that are hand tightened, however mine did not come with those. Mine had 1/4" nuts.
Once the mounting bracket nuts are tightened (careful not to over-tighten these), plug in the new speedometer wire plug.
Now is a good time to turn the key on and check to see that the speedometer comes on as it should. No sense in buttoning it all up just to find out there is a problem and have to take it back apart.
Now you have to re-assemble the speedometer face with the speedometer housing. Get that spacer I previously mentioned (#16 on the exploded view) in place and re-install the one tiny Allen Head bolt (careful not to over-tighten).
Lastly, re-align the speedometer housing cluster on it's mount and re-install the two Allen Head bolts (again, careful not to over-tighten).
Now it's time to program the odometer. The instructions do an adequate job of explaining this, so there is no need to cover those instructions. It only took about 1 minute though.
Before:
After:
Now it's time to go for a ride and see if the speedometer needs to be calibrated. Again, the install instructions do an adequate job of explaining the procedure.
I hope this helps some of you tackle your own install. Thank you.
Here is what I received in the mail:
The first thing you'll want to do is protect your gas tank from damage or scratches. I covered mine with a nice soft cleaning towel.
Turn your handlebars all the way to the left (this provides a little more room to work).
Next remove the two (2) Allen Head bolts shown in the picture below (see arrows). They are 5/32.
Once those two Allen Head bolts are removed, the speedometer cluster will be free from it's mount.
There is plenty of slack in the cable, and you'll need to pull some of it through in order to access the next Allen Head bolt that needs removed.
Remove the below Allen Head bolt. It's a tiny one. I believe it was a 5/64".
Once this bolt is removed the speedometer cluster can be separated.
NOTE: There is a small spacer inside between the speedometer outer cup housing and the inner mounting bracket. It's number 16 on the exploded view above. You can see a small portion of it in the above picture.
Next unplug the old speedometer wire plug below (yes that's the new one, but you get the point).
Now unbolt the two (2) nylon nuts holding the old speedometer to the inner mounting bracket. They are 11/32".
There are notches on the mounting bracket, so you can't mis-align the new speedometer when putting it back in.
Once you have installed the new speedometer and aligned the mounting bracket in it's notches, use the nuts supplied with your new Dakota Digital speedometer. The installation instructions show nuts that are hand tightened, however mine did not come with those. Mine had 1/4" nuts.
Once the mounting bracket nuts are tightened (careful not to over-tighten these), plug in the new speedometer wire plug.
Now is a good time to turn the key on and check to see that the speedometer comes on as it should. No sense in buttoning it all up just to find out there is a problem and have to take it back apart.
Now you have to re-assemble the speedometer face with the speedometer housing. Get that spacer I previously mentioned (#16 on the exploded view) in place and re-install the one tiny Allen Head bolt (careful not to over-tighten).
Lastly, re-align the speedometer housing cluster on it's mount and re-install the two Allen Head bolts (again, careful not to over-tighten).
Now it's time to program the odometer. The instructions do an adequate job of explaining this, so there is no need to cover those instructions. It only took about 1 minute though.
Before:
After:
Now it's time to go for a ride and see if the speedometer needs to be calibrated. Again, the install instructions do an adequate job of explaining the procedure.
I hope this helps some of you tackle your own install. Thank you.
