Kellyson.. like ur style master splinterBut I believe it is, look at post #58 and he's not the only one, Kelyson
And ur not understanding damnit bobby! Stop beatin off in the tool shed and listen.. lmao.. my comoression issue is fixed.. I now have a huge starter bang while starting the bike like something is not aligning.. put it on a bike that was perfectly fine and it did the same on his.. it's my starter.. lolBut I believe it is, look at post #58 and he's not the only one, Kelyson
270 would be the absolute bare minimum and I think later it was updated to 320CCAService manual says the battery is 270 CCA, I'm gonna check that when I get home tonight. Perhaps if mine was replaced it wasn't replaced with the correct cca battery.
Easy there.. I trust the guy who did it whole heartedly.. my thought is defective part or this manufacturer can' duplicate the original exactYou didn't say the starter was doing the same thing in another bike.
I would get the starter rebuilt by someone that knows what their doing if it happens in another bike.
Ok so I tried that and I was able to feel them both pop up and then go down when the bike started. However they seem to pop up and down like twice before the bike started (like in synch with the motors rotation). Is that the correct way they are to function or should they hold popped out until the bike starts?Put your finger on the rear CR when you go to start it and feel if it pops back up while its trying to start, if it does pop up, push it down immediately. Even though they work when you push the start button, it doesn't mean it has the nuts to hold it down when the compression comes up in that cylinder causing it to close and you get the bang.
https://www.amazon.com/TP-Engineering-45-4020-21-Compression-Harley-Davidson/dp/B007KPT31K
These are 26 dollars only.... I just need to know the thread size so I can buy the correct ones.
These are:
S&S are different, seen it somewhere around here in the Forum but I cannot find it now...
- Require a .650" (1.65cm) 10mm x 1.0mm-threaded hole for installation
- Thread pitch is 10mm x 1.0mm
Someone has one laying around that they could measure to see if its .650" which is a tad over 5/8" or 21/32" Please?I don't have my old ones to check, but I would think they would work, however I would hold the old one you take out against the new manual thread area to be sure. Or maybe someone has one laying around that they could measure to see if its .650" which is a tad over 5/8" or 21/32"
I will go do this again tonight. Perhaps now that I have a better understanding of how they are intended to function, I can confirm what mine are doing. Perhaps what I felt was them going down upon initially hitting the starter button and then popping back up after ignition. Thanks guys for all the explanations and help. I'll also try the battery tonight if they aren't functioning properly.When the start button is pushed you will feel the CR button go down, that opens them and as long as the start button is pushed they should stay down until you let off the start button. They should not be popping up and down.
To be sure its not your battery being weak try jumping from a car battery, with the car NOT running, and see if they pop up and down then. That would eliminate a weak battery causing the popping for sure.
I just cranked mine over and they stay down while the start button is held on.
Curtis sells them $ 200 Cheaper than Amazon!!!!Here's the manual ones from S&SElectric ones are cheaper and when you go with the cheaper manual ones you won't be able to reach in the hole without burning your fingers.
https://www.amazon.com/Cycle-Compression-Release-MAN-COMPRESSION-RELEASES/dp/B000GVGGVK
Strange that manual is more expensive than electric...by quite a bit!Curtis sells them $ 200 Cheaper than Amazon!!!!
http://www.wildsteedworx.com/index....o&cPath=65_68_173_77_332_260&products_id=1365
Same here, electric ones for me. But it's because I like for my machines to function the way they were intended to from the factory. Now if S&S ever stops making the electric ones, sure I'd do the manual at that point.Anyways looks like the TP ones fit and much cheaper than S&S.
The S&S one is cool cause it combines into one switch and you don't have to stick your hand in the head. I wear fingerless gloves in the summer so I know I'd never be able to push TP ones down. I also don't know where you would hide that box and plunger. Have to leave it hanging underneath the tank I guess....
I'll just stick with electric ones cause I dont like burning my fingers....haha
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