Clutch

Energy One

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
It doesn't pull after its in 1st with clutch pulled in...if it does..it is very very minimal. It does not get better after it is warmed up.
Yes and try both methods they are slightly different. Keep in mind that the less you back out from slightly seated the more throw you will get. To get the max pull on the cable keep the adj small 1/16" so the cable is not being pulled at rest but engages almost immediately when pulled. As long as your clutch doesn't slip under load the adj is probably OK.
Keep trying good luck!
Also Sven's post advise could be the problem but if I was going to pull the clutch apart with 13,500 miles of wear I would put new discs in.
 

mleach72

Well-Known Member
Just another note. When adjusting the cable, push the cable into the housing to see how much true free play you have. Before you see free play in the lever, the sheath end will start to fall away from the cable retainer. The free play will be between the sheath and the retainer until you push the cable in. Then you will see free play in the lever. That will help you get as much throw as possible.
 

DudeInSneakers

New Member
Give either of these methods a try. Very key in this adjustment is to have a lubricated push rod so its easier to feel when it is lightly seated. Lightly seated is a very subjective feel . Consider what your looking for, you want as much throw as you can get while still making sure the clutch plates are completely engaging when you release the handle.
Does your bike pull forward slightly when in 1st with the clutch pulled in? Does the problem seem less noticeable once you have ridden long enough for the fluids to warm up? That would be a useful clue, because cold fluid can make a borderline issue feel worse than it really is. Fresh primary fluid can help a little too. I look at casino games in a similar way, the first few spins do not always tell you much. On Tropical Casino https://tropical-casino.com/ I’d rather watch how a slot behaves over a full session, including the bonus features and pacing, before deciding whether something feels off. If it smooths out warm, I’d start there before chasing anything expensive.
The warm versus cold comparison is a good one. If the drag gets noticeably better once everything is hot, I would be looking at adjustment and primary fluid before assuming there is something seriously wrong inside the clutch.


I would also check how much free play you have at the lever after doing the push rod adjustment. It is easy to get the screw feeling right and then lose some of that adjustment at the cable.


If it still wants to creep forward in first with the lever fully pulled after everything is adjusted correctly, then I would start looking more closely at the clutch pack and whether the plates are sticking.


Fresh primary fluid is cheap enough that I would probably do that at the same time anyway, especially if you do not know how long the current fluid has been in there.
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
Update - measured the fluid that came out of primary and it is at minimum 32 oz. Which is way more than recommended....Wonder if that could cause the Lunge going into 1st?
Not likely to be related to your problem but 32oz is more than needed. I believe 20 oz is what users on this site install to help keep primary fluid from getting into the starter. 20oz in the trans is recommended.
Which name brands and weights is a different matter. Lots of opinions. I'm sure you can find a thread with a robust discussion on pros and cons of different brands including some to never use especially in the Trans.
 
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