How to read lever feed when knowing when to adjust; how to read the feed buying a used bike:
1. Lever leaving the grip is considered correctly adjusted does the wheel begin to move. Plus, N is easy to find. That's a full clutch pack brand new, no wear. Consider this the brand new puppy with a 1/4 turn out, 1/6th [air gap at the lever and perch] before the cable is taught.
2. Lever from grip now, is moving farther away from the grip before the wheel moves. The level leaving farther away shows a wear factor. Look how far the lever moved out to hold all the warn plates away from each other before it grips all the plates back. Say wheel engagement is almost at the perch for really worn plates, to half the throw of the lever before the wheel moves.
3. If anything, you want the lever to move the wheel at the grip. Why? The sooner those plates lockup, the less wear of it spinning, you moving the lever way down the street before it locks up, rather than right now where it is. The question to yourself is:
a. Can I find N right now? Yes. Then that means no warp plate still touching that narrow throw; new or used.
b. Won't slip no matter how hard out the gate is the quick lever release, meaning full engagement. Yes.
c. Won't slip at top end speeds flat out all she wrote getting there. Yes.
Screw settings:
|. Screw turn an 1/8th out: Rod sends the pressure plate way out there at the farthest throw. Ramp angle degree is shorter. Drag race setting. Find N right now.
||. Screw turn 1/4 turn out: Rod has the more or less ideal setting to throw far enough to find N, lever leave at the grip, race, etc.
|||. Screw turn 1/2 out: Rod's ramp has to move out farther. The lever is going to move out more before engages [just to take up more ramp angle], whereas the other two throw angles are the shorter lever engagement. Now it's a so-so throw finding N when it wears, or this wide gap needs more adjustment sooner finding N, stopping creep, meaning.
Make sense?
