My 2c. I think he took too much off to hand push the rod? Either way, fuck that way. Then again, your bike. For a better word, call this the 'center cable spreader'. The whole point of this is to send the ramp home with a loose cable, at the set screw:
1. Say you have the 1/16" gap at the clutch lever to perch [switch assembly for a better word at that area's gap], and you shorten the spreader so the lever gap is half way to the lever. Step one to this point.
2. Pull the lever to the grip and let go. That's about all she wrote is enough slack, enough tension; to send the ramp home, where you don't have to kind of have to hide the threads into the spreader for a wider gap where the lever falls onto the grip. the cable drops out of the spreader sort of, maybe.
3. Get it? That's the whole point is to home the ramp at the grip; lightly seat because that's all she wrote>> out a 1/4; spreader sets a lightly seated zero gap at the perch, try. Where you might get the loose belly of the cable to know the resistance starts at the 1/16th or less at the perch. Whereas, I run zero cable gap at the perch and have that puppy like a hair trigger... bust my ankle for N my ass.
What Mr. Wright said. But short of a brand new pack, this is for the quick pit kind of; have no time for thishit; you stack the steels and look for the gap/warp and change it out till zero gaps on the 360 degree look around and see. Same goes with the fibers is the pad inspection first. Burnt? Toss and replace. Then palm stack for warp with the used fibers. And if you really want to shadetree... the smooth garage floor is to; sanda floow... up/down, V8 style, who cares it's used shit.
Here's the down side taking material out. If it's a bunch of springs or a single wave plate, the wave has to be flat so the stack flattens the wave spring, not have a thinner pack, the wave concaves to a V or returns to memory; where too, the springs grow and lose that bite keeping so much spring pressure against the stack. Make sense?
