Cleaning and polishing cylinder heads and jugs ?

Energy One
I just pulled the heads and Jugs off of my 05 chopper, Getting ready to bring them to John Sachs for some work. He said I should clean and polish before I give them to him.

What is the best way to do this? Anyone got any tips ? I tried doing a search but didn't come up with much.

Thanks
 

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Mastiff Rider64

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
I just pulled the heads and Jugs off of my 05 chopper, Getting ready to bring them to John Sachs for some work. He said I should clean and polish before I give them to him.

What is the best way to do this? Anyone got any tips ? I tried doing a search but didn't come up with much.

Thanks
Do a google search for "Pimp Stix", I bought a set years ago and used them a lot before having my jugs and heads powder coated and diamond cut. They will help some but you'll still use some elbow grease with them. Go to their actual site and they are 29.99 for a set verses 46.99 on amazon.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Here at Apple Cider Cleaning Co., we use a cup to shot of vinegar to peroxide as our ratio. We let heady sit in the solution for days. Once you drop it in the solution, you fucking wish that looked like it does all polished out and not touched is looking down at that clear solution playing games with your eyes.

Then get that soft sock as a sacrificial fin polisher and soak the sock with polish and zip back and forth either in the solution or the part is on the bench all dry and now start in with the zip-zip. Not to mention how the carbon wipes off the valves and head chamber with your fingers. You're there spinning inch after inch with the dremel, and I'm fully socked across the fins adding friction across the board... who finishes first, pun. FIN-Ished with this post.
 
I feel The hardest part is getting the cast between the fins clean and getting the oxidation off and getting a bright clean as cast look. Polishing the the edges I don’t think will be bad I have a pedestal buffer.
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
I feel The hardest part is... and getting the oxidation off...
scream, had the nephew keep bringing me parts to build a chopper. I tried in-house up to cutting the seats and proper guide bore tool. In other words, I used the pre-drill and honed the rest and smoke'em. Feel wise I'll know when to stop. Final bore tool was $400 fuck that.

But the point was, don't punch out the guides with carbon or it ruins the bore for the next set and vinny did the trick. AS IF steamed cleaned. Do this. Just dip the exhaust valve in a cut down plastic drinking bottle. Just up to the tulip so some carbon is still on and test that way. Say pull it up in 24h and finger push it. Dip it for another day and you'll see how easy carbon comes off.

Like I said, instant polish as soon as I submerged the S&S in the vinny alone. I now add peroxide. Again, old lady walked away from a pan that she had made apple sauce from scratch and covered the whole pan black. Tried adding peroxide as an experiment, because last time, just vinny straight did not cut the first burnt pan. W/peroxide it wiped off. Go 50/50 if you want.

Buddy had a carb sitting for years and I then tried NAPA's carb dip for 12 bucks. Will never vinny up if I can use the carb dip all fresh and new. Watered it off, what a beautiful job. Like 3 bucks at costco for a gallon of vinny is it? Might need a few cans of carb dip and let it eat the carbon and oxy that way. Then you have cans of toxic around. Vinny down the drain and let it sit and eat that shit.

You have nothing to lose is 5% acid on that valve face if you want to make a case for VinPx mix.

As far as fin, grime, dirt released from both liquids, say we add baking soda as the last chemical to react and once the bubbles end, probably took care of the oxy no doubt if not the liquids. Ah, you can wash it off and see how clean it is. Then if not, dip and soda for the finalize. Still only 3 dollars to lose, The other two are around the house, yes?
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So say out in the garage I meguyveer and veer over to point A and tie the rope. Walk to point B and tie that off. I can stand on the rope is the integrity of A and B. When she's not looking, take the fattest towel so the rope even makes dragging the fin tighter.

Get it so far? Then pour the polish at the V at the peak of the rope, but down the sides, right? You are going to zip back and forth, face of the fin is going to heat up all along that fin to polish out some heat to move shit off the finish. The fuck if I'm going to eat and sneeze fuzz off my dremel drill big or small. I rather... dental floss my cylinder barrel and head is more the zip-zip down the rope and back.

Okay, she caught you. Too short are the felt-free's to drape over the line and what a short run no way. 4 runs down the hallway and and back and you're done with a fin. Towels too short, you use two sheets and Popeye the rope with some spinach so it spreads out against the fins, right?
 
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Sven

Well-Known Member
chubs, two tests on my part. Dipped an S&S and the carb HD uses to clean them. Imagine the fine thread of the low jet being eaten away. Or say the brass jets too. Both bikes started with one kick an idled just like that. Show me the damage. Next one was the kid just needed to have a back brake master from some aircraft name or parts for planes. Looked like a piece of shit, could not air blow the stuck plunger out. Days in vinegar got it out. The bore was so torn up from rot being cast iron.

Vinny likes it. Vinny did the undoing is a little chemical reaction of 5 percent? Soak rubber in it yeah, there is your damage swelling. But aluminum, harden steel like a valve, pot metal is the carb, cast iron was the stick on stick off of testing metals to rubber... oh, and stainless steel on the apples is its own antidote.
 
Ok, so after trying a couple different cleaners and metal bright I realized I just wasn’t getting the finish I wanted so I decided to bead blast the the heads and jugs with fine glass bead. This is what I was looking for and I kind of figured all along I wouldn’t be happy with the results until I bead blasted. Next I will sand and polish.6483B8A8-6775-405F-B281-66F749767813.jpeg
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Well in that case, hot soapy water and get the grit out of the guides and oil surface returns, bottle brush bore holes. Your bike, but blast is to surgically clean everything. I know how, I know, but this was for anyone thinking an air blow is going to do it for them. It's more transfer cleaning. I'm not about to polish in transfer grit locked in the pockets the air couldn't blow off. For me it's one super bath and assemble or, still bathed for the next operation.

Edit: Especially the cylinder bore. Clean those first with the cleanest of water.

You don't get all the shit off with just toilet paper - Anonymous
 
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