cam sensor issue, STILL

[Allen Pippin]

Trying to track down why I keep frying cam sensors, I just cooked my 4th sensor. But I did manage to get a voltage reading before it went. 14.18 volts from the voltage regulator at about 2,000 rpm. Is that enough to cook the cam sensor ? I hate to buy a voltage reg. if that isn't the issue. Any ideas ?

 

[Rottweiler]

Here is a post from Jersey Mike on August 18th

The chrome box on the front is the voltage regulator.
Use a volt meter when all is reconnected and make sure that at apprx 3000prm you are getting 13.8 to 14.4 measured at the battery indicating that it is charging. With a Compu-fire, the positive wire also tends to be black so you might want to check output before connecting.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Are you frying the sensors or the module?
Are you sure you are using the correct cam sensor? Have they been the ones spec'ed for your ignition module.

The cam sensor is 3 wires - 12v, ground and signal.

The ONLY things that I can think of that will kill this are

Overvoltage (and should be having other issues)
Excessive heat kill it after running.
Wrong cam sensor for module (ie a module that expect a lower level signal output at the ignition module.) Electronic modules frequently when computerized have to drop the sensor input voltage to a lower logic level.
A short in the ignition module could cause above issue.

If you have check for overvoltage, have you checked for excessive heat near the nose cone? Maybe wrap that section of pipe to block heat.

At this point if you have check for both high voltage and high heat, I'd change the entire module out not just the sensor. But that's me.

 

[Allen Pippin]

The cam trigger pickup keeps going out . I installed a new one today and unplugged the voltage reg. just in case it was the issue. I started the bike, let it run for about 1 min , plugged in the regulator and quick checked the voltage, 14.18 volts. Before I could unplug the regulator it died. The first time the cam trigger died the neutral light died. I tried a new bulb , still dead . Could it be related ?

 

[Sven]

At the 3 wires on the harness side, key on, ohm each wire using the 20v scale. Only one wire should show 12v. If say you have 12v at both wires, that says the next jobber, or the spark capturing unit is. With key off, meter to infinity, ground the black meter probe to a good frame/engine ground, red probe should show a ground for this wire.

However, seems it would have a ground to start, right? The one bleed-back to cook the sensor is that input wire [signal] up to the unit showing rpm speed or that wave pulse signal. No, 14.18v is not about to cook the sensor. Couldn't be the spark unit if changing out the sensor refires the bike with a new sensor, right?

 

[Allen Pippin]

I think I am going to have to stick a crowbar in my wallet and take it to a mechanic . It's already cost me 400 in parts and I am gaining no ground. About 15 seconds after I plugged in the voltage regulator it died. The regulator seems to test good. I think I have a gremlin

 

[Mr. Wright]

Check and see if the regulator is putting out a current. It might have a diode out in it. Ac will feel havoc on DC components

 

[Sven]

With key on, v/r plugged in, connect sensor to the main harness. Did it arc blue with noise?
With key on, v/r disconnected, connect sensor to the main harness. Did it make a tiny orange spark?

Orange says; it is being powered up.
Blue says; direct short.

 

[Allen Pippin]

Thanks