First off, this is not applicable to later models as they have a more traditional sensor. The 04's used the old cam sensor under the point cover approach.
Why would you need to do this? Well, pretty much next to NEVER unless you're chasing a freak ignition problem like I was. I narrowed it down to either the Cam Sensor or the EHC. (Thanks Ohmster for the troubleshooting tips!)
The cam sensor is a sealed unit that pretty much does nothing but detect when a notch in a rotating cap goes by. It sends a signal to the ignition module and the module sends the right signal to the correct cylinder for firing.
The Cam sensor can fail, but it is VERY rare. Typically it's a overheat issue. Over the summer months, that's the kind of problem I think I've been having with the ignition dumping. This may not be the final fix, but the bike hasn't dumped the ignition in the two weeks since the change.
Here we go. The camn sensor part comes from BDM like this;
An important thing to note is the notch at the arrow. I suspect this has something to do with a rough timing at the factory as we'll see there are three marks in the housing this could line up with;
First, remove the two allen screws holding the points cover.
This is what you'll see. Note the position of the notch. You'll want to put the new one in the exact same place;
Remove the two "spacer bolts" with a flathead driver. It will look like this. The red arrow points to the Cam Cup and the green arrow points to the notch that rides between the wall of the cam cup.;
**UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES TURN OVER THE BIKE OR ROTATE THE MOTOR. YOU RISK SCREWING UP YOUR TIMING AND REVERSING THE FIRING SEQUENCE. **
Disconnect the signal lead under the bike (Red, Green, Black). It's wrapped up in the protective harness wrap, so cut away the tie-wraps as far back as you need to get to it.
Now disconnect the old line. It will pull through the points housing without removing the connector plug. Then run the new one through, reverse the sequence for putting it back together. Use great care with the "spacer bolts." They're made out of crap metal and easy to snap one off with a driver (I did!). I couldn't find the torque specs for them, but I suspect it's something like 5-7 lbs.
Enjoy!
Why would you need to do this? Well, pretty much next to NEVER unless you're chasing a freak ignition problem like I was. I narrowed it down to either the Cam Sensor or the EHC. (Thanks Ohmster for the troubleshooting tips!)
The cam sensor is a sealed unit that pretty much does nothing but detect when a notch in a rotating cap goes by. It sends a signal to the ignition module and the module sends the right signal to the correct cylinder for firing.
The Cam sensor can fail, but it is VERY rare. Typically it's a overheat issue. Over the summer months, that's the kind of problem I think I've been having with the ignition dumping. This may not be the final fix, but the bike hasn't dumped the ignition in the two weeks since the change.
Here we go. The camn sensor part comes from BDM like this;
An important thing to note is the notch at the arrow. I suspect this has something to do with a rough timing at the factory as we'll see there are three marks in the housing this could line up with;
First, remove the two allen screws holding the points cover.
This is what you'll see. Note the position of the notch. You'll want to put the new one in the exact same place;
Remove the two "spacer bolts" with a flathead driver. It will look like this. The red arrow points to the Cam Cup and the green arrow points to the notch that rides between the wall of the cam cup.;
**UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES TURN OVER THE BIKE OR ROTATE THE MOTOR. YOU RISK SCREWING UP YOUR TIMING AND REVERSING THE FIRING SEQUENCE. **
Disconnect the signal lead under the bike (Red, Green, Black). It's wrapped up in the protective harness wrap, so cut away the tie-wraps as far back as you need to get to it.
Now disconnect the old line. It will pull through the points housing without removing the connector plug. Then run the new one through, reverse the sequence for putting it back together. Use great care with the "spacer bolts." They're made out of crap metal and easy to snap one off with a driver (I did!). I couldn't find the torque specs for them, but I suspect it's something like 5-7 lbs.
Enjoy!
