Okay. I unplugged the battery turn the key on then plug the battery back up.
First let me say that I do not wash computer bikes just for this reason. I clean most every part with WD40 and wipe it dry. Wetland or ocean climate, I'd clean and let it evaporate. Guy did a car carburetor experiment; one he left it as a clean carb, and sprayed down another carb with WD. Left them in the attic, came back to them a year later, and you should have seen the linkage difference of one rusted up, the WD carb linkage was clean of any rust. That sold me.
I have to look at it as, 'I touched nothing but washed it.' 'I unplugged the power and it lit back up.' 'I took it around the block and got it somewhat warm.' See how you are back to the same thing?
Can't be the battery.
Can't be the black box.
Can't be any jobber on the bike as if heading for a fail mode like a crank sensor.
Can't be what I did last because it runs so it's not previous work done.
Has to be a wet signal still.
How do I verify? I remove the battery ground, let it sit for however long it took you to disconnect/reconnect... and did it fire back up? Computer saved last good signal... and it was a [wet], out of range, saved signal... it should light back up no problem with a clean start signal. Get it?
As if RAM is the saved out of range signal to start, but you wiped the bad signal by the disconnect so it starts with ROM... or the bike starts clean with 0000 signal. A computer bike starts at zero. See how that makes sense to me in computer speak how it fires back up? No failed jobbers or it wouldn't start.
Went for a ride around the block to get the bike hot.
A crank/cam senor takes more time to heat up the thermal to max heat range and that is all she wrote as far as can't get any hotter. It needed a half day ride with the wind/heat/time. If say you plug the battery back up, take the longer ride or fan it for hours on end. Bring the battery tool if you chase for gas and have to turn it off.
Runs good turn signal work okay like nothing wrong.
And I'd be chasing my ass to understand why the winker goes hot? As if a drop of water contacts a constant hot pin and the winker pin is next to it? If I owned this bike, I'd know if it has a learn and bleeds off the battery and can shut off 15 minutes later like a car does. Bueller?
Get home and turn it off. And back to the same thing.
As far as I can tell, I doubt if there is any harm spraying WD on the pins on the the main harness side. However, I would not spray the black box's pins. The weatherpac type connectors are used just so nothing liquid enters. I have two options:
1. I can pull the main connectors off the black box, fan it so the pins dry out and just that moving wind around the bike is going to dry more things.
2. Do the disconnect/reconnect at the battery and if it runs, give it a good crank sensor kind of time on it. Think 15 minutes, but more 15 out and 15 back from home is a half hour of hot wind on the parts. Let it sit and cool down. See if it starts. Remember the 'can't be's' if it keeps starting.
