Bike Quit - 2007 Bulldog EFI

ground pounder

Active Member
Next time your bike dies see if the fuel pump is working or not. If it isn't take a electrical power test light and go from the ground on the battery to the ground on the efi relay. If it then powers up the fuel pump, you have a bad efi module as power for the pump and injectors etc. are controled by the efi ground circuit which pulls the relay closed when the controler sends a ground to it.
 

BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
Tom,
"take a electrical power test light and go from the ground on the battery to the ground on the efi relay. If it then powers up the fuel pump, "
Not sure a test light would provide a jumper path for a test but a jumper CLIP lead would for sure.

The EFI module has a grounded (control?) wire from it that is used to GROUND one side of the EFI support RELAY coil. The relay coil power SIGNAL? comes from the EHC and routed thru the EFI module to the relay coil. This relay activates for two seconds after you initally press the RUN button then de-activates and awaits for the START button starting procedure where it activates again and stays activated until you shut down the engine using the handlebar OFF button (ALWAYS SHUT THE BIKE DOWN USING THIS BUTTON AND NOT THE KEY). DO NOT START THE ENGINE WITH THE THROTTLE OPEN PAST IDLE POSITION.

Jeff,

Post pictures of the left and right side areas under the seat of the wiring. I want to see the RELAYs area around the horn.

Buy a can of Seafoam fuel additive from the auto store and add a bit more than the can says to your fuel tank fuel amount. This will help burn out any crap in the injectors and the fuel pump/regulator system.

I would also try to test the fuel rail pressure from the fuel pump with a pressure gauge 1-100 psi. The pressure should be near 55psi although the service manual claims 58-60psi. Groundpounder replaced both the pump and regulator but only gets around 52psi today.

Next time the bike dies take NOTE of the EHC LED lights before you turn OFF the key or press any buttons and take note of the speedo head LEDs and speedo needle. Pull over to the side, remove the seat and look down at the lights and record which LEDs are lit. Turn OFF the key and go thru the normal TURN ON and press RUN process, but don't START the engine and NOTE the EHC LEDs again. IF the LEDs are normal then try to START the engine otherwise I would TURN OFF the key and try again.
 
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BigDogBro1

Made in the USA
BDBro1: Didn't see your last reply until now. I have tried pulling on all wires while the bike is running with no effect. All wires seem tight, but I will re-crimp as soon as I can.

I will also check the relays at this time. I am unfamiliar with the relays but will study the schematic. What should I look for? Are they the same relay as you suggest swapping?

I plan on following the rest of your advice with the grease and cleaning on the EHC.

Yes, when the bike dies it is just like turning the key off. I have not had a chance to see the EHC lights when it has died because I did not think to look at them until it refired. The next time I will look.

The previous owner had a lojack anti-theft system on it but had it uninstalled before I purchased.

From one Michigander to another, thanks for your support!
There is a three? pin connector (check service manual) accessable from the RH side cover that feeds power over to the EFI relay or the coil pack...can't recall which it was when Bro2 had his security alarm connected in series with this wire to kill the coil. Make sure this connection has not been tampered with or restored properly when the security unit was removed.
 
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The VFI has a sealed connector, so no grease needed.

Post a few pics of what you have and we can guide you to it.

The relay that was referenced above doesn't power the EHC, it powers and the EFI sensors, coil and fuel pump.

Dont confuse it with the Circuit breaker.
Does anyone know where I can purchase I guess its the relay box near the horn. My upper left needle or connector is stripped and not getting good ground or something. I ran the wire over the the other prong and bike started right up, but still stalls out after about 3 miles of riding. pic is from left side under panel blue crimp is the wire that runs the fuel pump I think. not sure if I should put it on other side or not.


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Jwooky

Well-Known Member
You can by those at most auto parts stores.

I would not use a fuse. No reason to change all the wiring
 

aspen874

Well-Known Member
If you continue to have problems, I would suggest you send your EHC to Curtis, he can run a variety of test including heat and cold along with any faults that are recorded.

The EHC on these bikes get blamed for everything, I was losing my entire speedo functions and brake lights, everyone one said it was the EHC so I sent it to Curtis. He found that the EHC was good but my ignition switch had thousands of fault hits, I replaced my ignition switch and that fixed my speedo and brake lights faults (no one would have ever thought that).
 
that's the 40A circuit breaker you are pointing at. You can replace with a 40A fuse or you can find them at Oreilly's or other auto part stores.
the one on the left is a 25 amp, and the right a 40 amp. THey say short stop on them, I cant find where they say short stop at the local auto parts stores. But I can find regular breakers. Is there a difference.

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knothead

Second Chance Customs
Im with jersey mike on this i would do away with the circuit breaker and put a 40 amp fuse in...i think i have 30 amp fuses in mine but cant remember without looking this evening....i care extra fuses in a zip lock bag and put it on top of my battery under the battery strap in case i ever have to have one but so far never have...but since u have a 25 amp and a 40 amp breaker that would be what fuse sizes i would run in there place
 

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
I don't understand why folks are recommending this. You want to modify your wiring, add (2)splices to your VR 40 amp circuit??

Why, so you can carry fuses around?
 

knothead

Second Chance Customs
The reason i did it is cause the voltage regulator over charges it will burn alot of stuff up....i have a stud kit in its places where the circuit breaker was with a 40 amp fuse from there going to the battery so it overcharges it will pop that fuse...all the power wires that where hook to the circuit breaker on the opposite side are now on there on fuse coming off the battery going to the systems...im just throwing added protection in there...ive not spliced nothing i just put a stud in its place and on each end of the other 2 power wires i added a fuse link....im not saying there is anything wrong with the curcuit breaker set up i just dont carry for it much for myself and thats just the way i did all of mine...it just helps me norrow down quicker what may have went wrong if something was to go wrong
 
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Does anyone know where I can purchase I guess its the relay box near the horn. My upper left needle or connector is stripped and not getting good ground or something. I ran the wire over the the other prong and bike started right up, but still stalls out after about 3 miles of riding. pic is from left side under panel blue crimp is the wire that runs the fuel pump I think. not sure if I should put it on other side or not.


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Update, tracked wires to the coil, and the coil was cracked. I think I found the problem, ordered new one from Curtis at Wild Steed should get it tomorrow and be back on the road.

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The VR must have EXTERNAL TOOTH STAR WASHERS between the VR and the frame mounting bosses to have a good ground contact.

Wild Steed Works here on the forum as a sponsor sells the RIP EHC replacement unit and harness just released which has my attention. You need to closely check if it's EFI READY...meaning ALL LED functions and ECM control for your bike.
http://www.wildsteedworx.com/index...._info&cPath=65_68_173_82_203&products_id=1247

Also, out of curiosity, what is and how do you do a EFI reset procedure?
There is a label under the seat near the rear fender on the battery bracket that explains it.

After disconnecting and reconnecting your battery on EFI's only. You must turn your key on, push run, you will hear the fuel pump cycle, then wait for your engine light to go off. Turn your key off, wait 15 seconds. She will be ready.

Didn't see Ohmsters earlier detailed reply which is accurate.


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was wondering if this VR could be over heating my breakers causing them to trip, then after about 15 minutes when things cool down it starts right up. I had this installed beginning of last summer and the bike ran perfect all summer. Road in the mountians, around central NC, and at coast without any problems.


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shanncotto

New Member
Hello, I have a 2009 Big Dog Mastiff- with a Wires plus retro fit kit installed- I am thinking about switching over t o LI-ION batteries- has anyone used a LI-ION battery with a Wires plus retro fit kit? Any concerns or issues....thoughts. Thankyou
 
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