pauldeepsea
Guru
Check for intake leaks as well, carb and exhaust . I would start with this first and then look at your jets
Well my 06 Mastiff was detuned. It came with all the restrictions even an e carb stock. I spent a lot of money with S&S to ship everything I needed to undetune mine. Which was jugs, carb, valves, springs, heads and all. Well over 4,000 in parts and labor.All big dogs 05 and later are epa regulated. Same valves, same compression, epa cams. The E carb doesn't signify an epa engine. They thought they needed the restrictors to pass the new laws. When they realized the g carb was still epa compliant, they went back to it. It's possible there were some 06's that had the restrictors and e carb, but they had to be pretty rare. I used to hang out at the dealer, and all of the 06's I saw had the G.
Hmm, yours is the first '06 I've ever heard of with an E carb. Definitely rare. Just out of curiosity, what is your engine code? Yours should start with "GE".Well my 06 Mastiff was detuned. It came with all the restrictions even an e carb stock. I spent a lot of money with S&S to ship everything I needed to undetune mine. Which was jugs, carb, valves, springs, heads and all. Well over 4,000 in parts and labor.
Put some Seafoam in the gas tank.I filled up with premium and plan to ride it some more. I think the bike sat quite a bit. I researched the title and the previous owner that did the engine work had it a couple years and only put 1100 miles on it. Hard to say how much it sat before I got it.
No it doesn't matter if you go slow or fast with the throttle at about 3500 to 4k it hits a wall just stutters then fires a few times then stutters and just goes back and forth until you get below 3500 rpm then runs fineAre we more like a low mph and low rpm and then whack the throttle open? Does it run without a falling face if you open the throttle slower so the rpm catch up? Could this be wrist rather than jetting? Only the OP knows for sure.
Thats why i ordered all new parts. New cylinders, heads, valves, springs, rocker boxes because mine had the TP ones originally, new carb, .600 cam, thunder heart ignition, i cant remember everything mainly because it was back in 2015 i think. I know BDM had closed by this time. But i know it was a lot. Then got 500 miles on the motor and it blew. Sent it to S&S to find out why and it turned out to be workmenship by an S&S certified mechanic. So S&S helped me out once i shared emails and text between the mechanic and myself. Ended up with a S&S 124 from the speed shop before it closed that was built for someone else who backed out of the deal. Got it for a steal. And couldnt be happier with this motor.Hmm, yours is the first '06 I've ever heard of with an E carb. Definitely rare. Just out of curiosity, what is your engine code? Yours should start with "GE".
Yeah, to get the bdm 117 up to s&s specs requires getting the compression over 10:1, machine the heads for 2" valves, and install a 600 cam. Of course, you can get more extreme than that, but that is what is required to make a bdm 117 identical to one directly from s&s.
This latest description makes me think you may have an ignition system failure. Check your plugs and wires. They could be breaking down under the stress of the higher rpms.No it doesn't matter if you go slow or fast with the throttle at about 3500 to 4k it hits a wall just stutters then fires a few times then stutters and just goes back and forth until you get below 3500 rpm then runs fine
Thats on tomorrow nights agenda. I dont even know what size intermediate or main jets are in it. So I planned to drop the bowl and see what I have along with checking the plugs outThis latest description makes me think you may have an ignition system failure. Check your plugs and wires. They could be breaking down under the stress of the higher rpms.
While your waiting for your new jets to come in pull your main and clean it . Can't hurt and only takes a short time to do it.
No idea yetWhat king of ignition system is it? Could it be the rev limit setting?
Do one thing at a time. You checked/replaced your plugs/wires now test ride before moving on. When troubleshooting it's always best to test after each attempted fix. Process of elimination. That way you learn for the future. Extreme example to consider: if you replaced your whole engine the problem would be gone but you would not know what fixed it.Thats on tomorrow nights agenda. I dont even know what size intermediate or main jets are in it. So I planned to drop the bowl and see what I have along with checking the plugs out
The air filters are clean, it has the S&S dual induction acWhat Mike said. Except, throw the new plugs in first. That's a one thing at a time. It's more like starting from the bottom and go backwards. In other words, ground is first, so plugs go to ground = No joy; then wires; then coil; etc.
No oil down threads... I will buy that engine from you. Not sooty at the plugs. Looks like a new set of plugs might just do it... just guessing. Cause it's really not overly rich. More like putt-putt rich. We have a dirty air cleaner element?