Battery Cover Upgrade
- Thread starter cvegmond
- Start date
This site has covers you need to look at the part numbers on your to see if they fit. Some will say what bike it goes to other don't
BIG DOG PITBULL COVER RT SIDE COVER | eBay
He has the Left side too on page 2
Carlos
BIG DOG PITBULL COVER RT SIDE COVER | eBay
He has the Left side too on page 2
Carlos
Nukeranger
Nukeranger
I am losing interest in this. JB weld, and other options works to fix what we have. Although, metal covers are appealing to me!:bang:Chopper117 or any others? Glue?
Contact ciment?
What type of glue did you use? My left one just broke and I can see that my right one was riveted and glued thick. Its some type of yellowish glue...I just glued 2 of my tabs back on today....they keep breaking.
Contact ciment?
BadBrad
2005 Pitbull
"They" make a 5 minute expoxy just for plastic. Look in most any car parts store or in a Lowe's/Home Depot. I've used it before on my dash piece and it bonds great to plastic. As for the side covers, I placed a thin matt of fiberglass to the inside of the cover and made sure to get a good layer around the "ears" where the bolts go. No problems since I did that.
ChopperFred
Member
I know that my bike does not have these covers and I'm not sure how they mount. But where are the cracks occurring? Is there some way to prevent it by reinforcing the area or using washers at the attachment points?
Fred
Thinking about a K9
Fred
Thinking about a K9
Nukeranger
Nukeranger
FYI,
Here are pictures of my JB Weld. I have not sanded and painted the ears and don't plan to until something else needs painting. This is hidden by the seat when installed and I want to see how this stands up. As you can see I spread a thin coat on the inside up until the bend and only did the cracked location and a short distance in both directions of the original cracks.
If this doesn't work, there is plastex and fiberglass. I have used fiberglass and gelcoat on my boat with great success. The right side was actually put back together originally with Locktite Super Glue and was holding but I lightly sanded it and placed a coat of JB Weld over it. It was the left side that I failed to put together right with Locktite. Once the parts aren't held together right the material has to be sanded to get the penetrated locktite out.
Here are pictures of my JB Weld. I have not sanded and painted the ears and don't plan to until something else needs painting. This is hidden by the seat when installed and I want to see how this stands up. As you can see I spread a thin coat on the inside up until the bend and only did the cracked location and a short distance in both directions of the original cracks.
If this doesn't work, there is plastex and fiberglass. I have used fiberglass and gelcoat on my boat with great success. The right side was actually put back together originally with Locktite Super Glue and was holding but I lightly sanded it and placed a coat of JB Weld over it. It was the left side that I failed to put together right with Locktite. Once the parts aren't held together right the material has to be sanded to get the penetrated locktite out.
Nukeranger
Nukeranger
Mine do and still do. I don't know what started the crack approximately 1/2 inch inside of the bolt holes. Maybe, you are lucky
BWG56
Guru
I have the recall rubbers and pins but I would have to drill out the holes for these to fit and I chose not to take the powder coat off. I just used a few layers of fiberglass and resin to fix mine and haven't had a problem since.
Nukeranger
Nukeranger
This is an update to my August 2008 post above.
My left side cover tab broke again. The right side (JB Weld) is intact with no obvious signs of separation or failure. This time I am trying Plastex from Plastex Plastic Repair Kits which turned out to be so easy to use that if it holds, this is the answer for me. As you can see in the below pictures, I used the white powder but the dark powder is supposed to be stronger like carbon fiber. You can see I also did not sand down Plastex to get rid of the fiber glass cloth so you know it is there for extra strength for the photo. I am going to add a little more Plastex to cover the rest of the fiberglass cloth.
Also notice the V notch that was filled in by the plastex to get the most surface area between the broken pieces for strength.
I guess we will see how good this stuff is! It sure would be nice to get some made out of metal.
My left side cover tab broke again. The right side (JB Weld) is intact with no obvious signs of separation or failure. This time I am trying Plastex from Plastex Plastic Repair Kits which turned out to be so easy to use that if it holds, this is the answer for me. As you can see in the below pictures, I used the white powder but the dark powder is supposed to be stronger like carbon fiber. You can see I also did not sand down Plastex to get rid of the fiber glass cloth so you know it is there for extra strength for the photo. I am going to add a little more Plastex to cover the rest of the fiberglass cloth.
Also notice the V notch that was filled in by the plastex to get the most surface area between the broken pieces for strength.
I guess we will see how good this stuff is! It sure would be nice to get some made out of metal.
JeffShoots
Member
I've fixed mine 4 times with all the ways listed on my '05 Ridge any word on a steel replacement?
One tab just broke again.
One tab just broke again.
Nukeranger
Nukeranger
Here are a couple of pictures of my repaired Battery Covers. The left side of the bike cover was recently repaired with Plastex while the right side was done with JB weld last year. I guess I'll see how long this lasts. The Plastex seems very solid while the JB weld has some flex.
I am not going to sand and paint until I get some run time.
If they break again, I'll fix it until Raywood comes out with metal covers for the Ridgeback.:roll:
I am not going to sand and paint until I get some run time.
If they break again, I'll fix it until Raywood comes out with metal covers for the Ridgeback.:roll:
Brew
Troop Supporter
Ray ray, you and Kapt better get on this one quick. I got a feeling if you guys can come up with something good, you'll be golden! I'll be one of those on the waiting list, if i cant find anyone around here to make me some for my scoot. I do have a lead and will be searching him out. It takes an english wheel in order to make mine from what I was told by the local metals shop...:2thumbs:
bearman
Active Member
you could take a piece of metal about 1" wide and bend it to the inside of the cover (see red outline) then glue it in and reinforce it with fiberglass over the tag end that is behind the cover (see the green outline).
You could use aluminum or thin stainless, just rough the back up good and the front where the glue and or fiberglass will stick to it.
And I apologize for stealing Nukeranger's pic.
You could use aluminum or thin stainless, just rough the back up good and the front where the glue and or fiberglass will stick to it.
And I apologize for stealing Nukeranger's pic.
Nukeranger
Nukeranger
I have no problem with you using any of my pictures. I like your idea. It mimics my next plan if this breaks but I have a feeling that it won't. I think the JB weld side will eventually give up due to fatigue. This plastex is strong and seems to melt into the material. As you can see, I added a layer of fiberglass cloth on top (actually bottom when installed) for extra strength and left some showing for the picture which I have since sanded off.
I was actually planning on gluing a thin sheet of aluminum on top of my next repair which extended over the edge if it breaks again. After the glue dried, I would sand it flush with the original edge of the tab. I'll have to think about not going to the edge and blending in the aluminum from the outline to the edge. For now, it is just an experiment for me with one side repaired with JB weld and one side with Plastex. I am not sure why I didn't go the fiberglass route except that being like glass when cured, it can crack from high vibrations if not done right and can also separate from the material you are repairing.
I was actually planning on gluing a thin sheet of aluminum on top of my next repair which extended over the edge if it breaks again. After the glue dried, I would sand it flush with the original edge of the tab. I'll have to think about not going to the edge and blending in the aluminum from the outline to the edge. For now, it is just an experiment for me with one side repaired with JB weld and one side with Plastex. I am not sure why I didn't go the fiberglass route except that being like glass when cured, it can crack from high vibrations if not done right and can also separate from the material you are repairing.
mymofoname
Member
Hey guys there is actually a repair kit that you can get from big dog ($68). I just purchased the kit for my pit bull. The kit comes with two solid plastic pieces that glue to the inside of the covers making the original ears obsolete (you must cut them off). It includes everything you need for installation. I found this to be the best way to repair my covers after several attempts to fix them and I tried epoxy, jb weld, fiberglass....etc. But always ended up cracking.