BAKER OPEN PRIMARY

[mask]

I just got my baker open primary in the mail and I was reading directions as well as previous threads on the topic of open primaries in general. The question I have is do i have to loosen the six bolts holding the transmission to the frame to align the new primary?

 

[spadesluck]

I do not think it would hurt. The reason is that once you loosen those bolts, you install the new inner cover and first bolt it down to the engine then bolt it to the tranny. After that tighten down the transmission to the frame. This will ensure everything is lined up and your spacers are still good to go. Make sense?

 

[mask]

it makes sense, but i just tried taking the rear shocks off to gain access to the six bolts and that is not going very well, and i have a well earned reputation for breaking stuff. Also iread on another thread somewhere that i should reverse some seal to prevent engine oil leak.

 

[V]

it makes sense, but i just tried taking the rear shocks off to gain access to the six bolts and that is not going very well, and i have a well earned reputation for breaking stuff. Also iread on another thread somewhere that i should reverse some seal to prevent engine oil leak.

You would want to reverse the seal on the output shaft of the engine. And remove the down tube stickers

 

[mask]

You would want to reverse the seal on the output shaft of the engine. And remove the down tube stickers

thanks, how do I remove the plate to get access to the seal?

 

[Little-Boo]

I installed a Baker on my 2006 Mastiff about 5 years ago and have not had any problem. I did not reverse the seal and have not had any oil leaks either. Remove the Rotor charging system by screwing two bolts on the front holes near the center and pull on it, it should come off. Clean the oil throughout the charging system and put the rotor back on. No need to reverse the seal. It is better to loosen the tranny to get the motor plate installed and motor and tranny aliened. I used mine for about three year took it off and had it chromed. Baker says no chrome, but I said fuck it and did it anyway.:lol: The back side of the motor plate was not chromed so the alignment was not thrown off at all. Good Luck

Carlos

 

[mask]

thanks for the replies, i just removed the stator cover and found a bunch of fine metal shavings while i was cleaning the oil off the cover

 

[cvegmond]

Dear Mr. Mask,
I had the great pleasure of installing a Baker SBD Primary on my K-9 last year.

The kit fits like a glove. I did not have to loosen the tranny to get the backing plate, which is a pain in the ass since you have to remove the the shocks. The backing plate of the kit slipped right on. On the outer bearing bar will require some raps from a rubber mallet.

 

[mask]

Dear Mr. Mask,
I had the great pleasure of installing a Baker SBD Primary on my K-9 last year.

The kit fits like a glove. I did not have to loosen the tranny to get the backing plate, which is a pain in the ass since you have to remove the the shocks. The backing plate of the kit slipped right on. On the outer bearing bar will require some raps from a rubber mallet.

when you were tightening both the clutch hub nut and and the motor sproket nut were you able to get them to the recomended torque specs? I cant seem to get the clutch hub nut and motor sproket nut to proper torque specs cause the clutch assembly rotates as i try to torque it

 

[pauldeepsea]

when you were tightening both the clutch hub nut and and the motor sproket nut were you able to get them to the recomended torque specs? I cant seem to get the clutch hub nut and motor sproket nut to proper torque specs cause the clutch assembly rotates as i try to torque it

They make a locking device to eliminate the rotation or u can wedge in rags to stop it from rotating.

 

[mask]

thanks Paul

 

[mask]

can you point me in the right direction on where to find the tool and what it is called?

 

[Brew]

Use rags and a good impact. Make sure you use red loc-tite on the nuts.

 

[pauldeepsea]

can you point me in the right direction on where to find the tool and what it is called?

I think it's called a jack shaft lock plate part number 33126-90 should be able to get one through any hd dealership or jam rags in there.

 

[pauldeepsea]

Use rags and a good impact. Make sure you use red loc-tite on the nuts.

Brew i don't think you would want to use a impact for torquing the nut down?May end up stripping the nut.

 

[minermark]

Keep the updates coming.......im watching......learning.....

 

[Little-Boo]

I used a piece of 2X4 between the front and rear Pulleys. Cut is so that it will be about two inches or so longer then the distance between to two pulleys and place it in at an angel against the direction you are trying to torque. It may be cheap way of doing it, but it worked for me.


Carlos

 

[cvegmond]

I have an electric impact wrench that "hammers" the nuts in place without the pulley locking device. I have the pulley lock device but have never needed it.

The torque rating on my impact wrench is a bit over the required torque for the nuts.

This is my third primary swap with this impact wrench ( my shovelhead, my rigid in the avatar and the K-9).

Another useful tool are a set of swiveling tip extension for the starter motor bolts. Those are a bitch to get the right amount of torque since they a a weird angled reach.

Take your time, you'll get it but it sounds like you need the proper tools.

If you want, I'll go look up the make and specs on my wrench.

 

[pauldeepsea]

I used a piece of 2X4 between the front and rear Pulleys. Cut is so that it will be about two inches or so longer then the distance between to two pulleys and place it in at an angel against the direction you are trying to torque. It may be cheap way of doing it, but it worked for me.


Carlos

I used a rubber doorstop/rags when removing it. wedged it in backwards between and held firm. Paid about $3 all about doing it the cheap way!

 

[pknowles]

Google u-tube Baker open primary install and you can watch from start to finish.