300 tire replacement

Energy One

moedog

RFFR
i figured after 9300 miles i should put a new tire on my k9. most of the wear has been to left side..i guess if i could gangsta lean to the right i could get another few out of it. i priced getting just tire installed on rim off the bike and only a couple shops said they could do it..at $100!:job: i took it to a auto wheel shop that puts the bigger wheels on cars ..u know 24's-28's..... and he charged me $10 and all his equip had hard nylon or plastic on it to prevent any damage.:whoop:

i dont have a lift so i used my jack to lift bike up then sat frame down on 6x6.. perfect height off floor and use a 2x4 under tire to support it when pullin axle.

i thought i would post a few pics to help out with the other how to's on the job. with the 300 tire there are two spacers on the rotor side of hub and one larger on the pulley side. each side has a spacer with a small lip on it.. be sure to replace it with the lip towards the tire and against the bearing that is in hub.

the longer hub is on the drive side(pulley) and contains 2 bearings, the rotor side has one. i replaced the bearings also and had them pressed in which was only $20 done by a professional


the bearings were also about $20 each.
also when putting wheel back together be sure to line up hub in same position it was in. the 08 has marks already on hub and wheel but mark yours if they dont... and very important to have your axle ran thru wheel while putting hubs back on so everything lines up correctly.

i also replaced the rear brake pads with the lyndall golds.. was told they perform better when wet and were $50 from bikers dream in atlanta. just like the how to says a very simple job... pull cotter pin that holds the brake pad pin and the pin slides right out.. rattle clip goes in between pads and clips on
to the back of pads. my pads were not worn that bad. i used a screwdriver against OLD pads to move caliper pistons back all the way.






and last but not least i put dyna beads back in before reinstall and got in a short test ride:2thumbs:


oh yea....and i polished wheel and hubs before reinstall also:flag:
 

Gatlin5

Active Member
Very nice post. Book marked into my "How to" folder.

Thank You for Taking the time to share it.:2thumbs:
 

BWG56

Guru
Any advice on aligning the rear wheel and tensioning the belt?
I measured the distance of the gap in front and behind the spacer under the axel caps on both sides with a vernier caliper before I removed the axel, and put it back together and adjusted the axel within .005 of the measurements I took. I also put those dimensions in my manual for future tire replacement.
Adjusting this way kept the same tension on the belt.
 

moedog

RFFR
Any advice on aligning the rear wheel and tensioning the belt?
i marked center line of axle bolt on both sides and realigned in same position and is the simplest way(white dot on frame)... mark bolt and frame..also you can measure from swingarm pivot bolt to axle center on both sides...my manual says no more than 3/16" belt deflection and rider weight is not necessary on bike.
use all 3 ways mentioned and you can't go wrong.

 

07bigdog

07BIGDOG
The break pads for the Bigdog are they a thick pad or thin? MC parts store acked me wasnt sure.
The Bigdog pads are thick. I don't know if it is the hot weather or the highways that wear out your tires. I've got 10,000 miles on mine and they are about half way to the wear bar.
 

moedog

RFFR
by the way i also sprayed all the bolts on hubs, pulley, and rotor with PB blaster and let it marinate for a little while to loosen up locktight.. back them out a little and spray more to penetrate down bolt and marinate some more...... and before reassembly CLEAN ALL BOLTS and HOLES to remove debris from old loctight, i used wire brushes from gun cleaning kit or you can use tap and die... spray out with brake clean to remove any oil and dry with compressed air.
 
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