The reason why I show up here is for the black box questions. The mechanicals are just the waiting around for one of these to show up. And no, I don't own a BD is the disclaimer.
2 months ago I bought a battery I did not personally wet and service as per instructions. The battery, nor the charging system should be in question, right? At this point you will have to go thru a full 24 hour trickle charge, or a high amp car charger, you more keep feeling the heat of the battery case at this point. Trickle is the walkaway, but home he has a heat gun for this kind of charging process in the faster [heat] rate.
With a volt meter you want to see a static 13+v you take the clips off the battery; go take a piss and come back out to check is that kind of static draw time of the walkaway. Check back and it read 12v? It says, ain't gonna happen. With that kind of full day charge, clips still on the battery, key on and it should look normal LED's on/off semi-LED's lit, I have no clue, but the full reds should recolor to its normal on settings. That says the black box is not it, because you had a full 12+v to the unit that reads good now.
Now you go back to see if it starts. It lights up, you just cross the volt meter leads on the battery posts and it should read 14v at idle say. It's not the charging system, not the EHC. Kind of see the troubleshooting steps might point to the 3rd component in the charging loop is the battery?
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When I brought it back home I noticed it was making a buzzing sound coming out of the battery area. When I opened it up found out that the noise was coming out of the EHC.
I'm going to assume you parked it with key off, you are hearing that noise at the EHC, right?
Because now I'm thinking EHC is always drawing current? The question is a 'learn' kind of black box? Can throw codes via LED counts/colors?
Say yes it buzzes with key off, then shuts off eventually.
When I go to crank it up it does a buzz sound and then a 4th LED light turns red and the 5th & 6th LED's are green.
Now say it did not buzz with key off at all when I brought it home. Then it's a non-learning box. You first have to ask yourself, was that buzz with key off, yes or no? Why? Now you say I have key on and the box can still have enough volts to buzz, and to send/change LED code colors across the LED panel. That kind of code change does not look like it's burnt out if it can process a color change and default to said color of low volts?
A buzz to me is a frequency that is 'out of range' for the processing. Not a clean wave length call it. Buzz is like a hacksaw blade and that multi spiking in the buzz frequency. Not an on/off kind of square wave with more volts to create the wave cleaner/more square.
The integrated chip has to have 12v to it, so 5v is the working voltage insides a black box. The battery can go down to say 9v, still have enough volts to keep the LED's on, code [if designed that way]... I'm just saying is that hidden intellectual property I'm on the outside looking inside is that reversengineering.
See, the "LEARN" is why I dig thishit? Triumph uses this learn process. Cars for sure have it. 14 years back when these came out, why not this kind of box too? Beats the fuck out of me if it is? And is that white dot on the battery post the bolt? Does it have that acid powder around that area? That's a sign of blocking the flow in and out. Clean those and the battery comes back. Ask me how I know? Is it in need of a q-tip dipped in vinegar to neutralize the acid? Do the battery posts contacts need new metal to be scraped off anshit?
So if this is a learn process, that box is going to trickledown the battery voltage just so it can learn with key off, then can shut itself off. Only key off knows the buzz for sure.
Make sense?
