06 K9 Wires Plus Issue

[jsburkey21]

So last week i was getting my bike ready for some summer riding. It started right up and i let it idle for a while. While it was idling i noticed that everything on the left handle bar was dead. The high/low didnt work, no turn signal, no horn. Everything on the right side was working. Once it was hot i turned it off and finished cleaning it.

Today when i went to start it the start button had nothing. The lights all come on with the key but the start button doesnt work. After poking around i realized NONE of the handlebar buttons were working.

I started to diagnose and found that it seams there is a dead short somewhere. Both terminals on the horn are grounded, the starter signal wire is grounded, etc.... Weird. It worked fine last week and this week its dead. Nothing changed, just completely out of the blue.

I decided to trigger the starter with a jump wire directly to the battery. Bike turned over and started right up.

The bike has a Wires Plus harness/ecm swap and i dont know which module to replace (if i can even find one). There are (2) modules that i suspect could be the problem. One has part number 13013 20800 written on it, the other has part number 13014(a) 210000 written on it. One module is black and completely sealed. It has one green light on it that does not come on when the key is on. The other module has an aluminum bracket that houses what looks like a relay. It has (6) lights on it and 3 green lights to the left come on with the key.

If i cant find the replacement parts; what is the best way to go to be able to get this bike back running?

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

First thing to do is check the handlebar switches.
Download the manual if you haven't already. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4342373flodnbhj/AACDvhA93EOHPPKCs2gYPQDPa?dl=0anualsan
Pull one side off and test those functions by manually grounding each switch.
If everything works you might need new switches or perhaps to let them really dry out (Did you get the controls wet while cleaning the bike)

If it is the Wires Plus, well your SOL as they're not been made in years.
I have a RIP2 which has served me well, but there are varying opinions on what to use and I will defer that to people that have used more than one system.

 

[jsburkey21]

First thing to do is check the handlebar switches.
Download the manual if you haven't already. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4342373flodnbhj/AACDvhA93EOHPPKCs2gYPQDPa?dl=0anualsan
Pull one side off and test those functions by manually grounding each switch.
If everything works you might need new switches or perhaps to let them really dry out (Did you get the controls wet while cleaning the bike)

If it is the Wires Plus, well your SOL as they're not been made in years.
I have a RIP2 which has served me well, but there are varying opinions on what to use and I will defer that to people that have used more than one system.

Thanks for the reply, I will download the manual now and test the switches. The bike was sitting in a garage, dry, covered, between the time it worked and diddnt work. Ill look into the RIP2. Where did you buy yours from?

 

[Sven]

If it's a downloadable year, I'd run all the dropdown menus and find a clean reformat reboot. I'd install a slam button for a backup. What do I know, but if it runs, it says the black box-to the wire connections-to the running of it says... It ain't broke yet.

Only your slam button knows for sure.

 

[jsburkey21]

If it's a downloadable year, I'd run all the dropdown menus and find a clean reformat reboot. I'd install a slam button for a backup. What do I know, but if it runs, it says the black box-to the wire connections-to the running of it says... It ain't broke yet.

Only your slam button knows for sure.

SVEN, with all due respect... What the hell did i just read? I have read your response at lease 10 times and it might as well have been hieroglyphics. Can you explain please?

 

[knothead]

Yeah you got a short somewhere sounds like and it could be inside the black box or one of the external grounds.....wire plus has several ground wires and most likely all the grounds will be beside the battery hopefully all on one bolt..... but back to what what each box is....the silver box you have is the switching module....the black box is basically the ehc....switching module usually never go bad but the black box will and usually if the go bad they will smell burnt or actually be melted....its a good chance the black box is going bad but hopefully its just a simple short....usally what takes the black box out is the voltage regulator over charging or a dead short in the battery itself...but sounds like you have a good battery by what you are saying....i would look for the grounds from the wireplus and check them to make sure all is good.... then check all the connectors plug on the wireplus where the plug into the harness to make sure they are free from water and nothing arching in the connectors....then try dielectric grease in all the connectors and see what you might have then once all is checked

 

[HMAN]

SVEN, with all due respect... What the hell did i just read? I have read your response at lease 10 times and it might as well have been hieroglyphics. Can you explain please?

Perhaps I can explain... I kinda got the Sven speak figured. What he is saying is if you can downoad a new MAP or go back to the last known good settings(not possible with WP) it may help. A slam button on the starter will help keep you going too, if you jumped the starter and it ran, the WP is ok.
Now for my .02
Having my WP fry in BumF*ck OK, yours may be on its way out. I replaced mine with an Electronix box from WSW. Do as Knotthead suggests and see where you are then....keep posting n we will help ya keep rolling.

 

[Sven]

If it's a downloadable year

When Mike sent in the manual url, I had no clue what year bike you have so I started paging a late 2005 manual? When Mike said he downloaded his 02 sensors and found one in spec and the other out of spec, this made me think to find one of the files with a way to refresh/restore to original back to seeing if it will start this way?

I'd run all the dropdown menus and find a clean reformat reboot.

This is like saying to you, go right click your mouse and see the popup window when that happens? Same as going to a website that sells something, and at the top it says, 'tools' or 'hats' and you click on that, and a dropdown of lists of tools saying, toolbox, tool kits, etc. Hat dropdown says, winter hats, summer hats, things like that is a menu line at the top and each selection clicked has a dropdown window telling you where-what to go-to next. That's a 'dropdown-window' from a menu bar.

So if you added the year of your bike in the post, it has a section like the 2005 manual that says to take a cable from laptop/computer tower and plug it in the black box that has a program you can see on the monitor screen. Find your year, tell me your year, you/I will look thru the pages and see if it says it has a program needing this cable, etc. kind of page as expained in the 2005 manual. Remember, I do not own this bike, but a manual makes things even.

That's the 'if it's a downloadable year,' then it has a program you can look for. Year me out and I'll chase it. And what you are looking for is to think of a brand new computer out of a box and has not one photo of yours, not one url you could save in bookmark. In other words it's like saying the bike starts at zero [0000 = binary numbers] is to clear what is saved/learned and is now fresh out of the box is the little black box as if new out of a box. That's what I'm looking for (if applies). Mike or Mr. Wright should know if this has that ability. The term is called, reformatting a hard drive. That's what you're looking for... if this thing learns... you'd think?

I'd install a slam button for a backup. What do I know, but if it runs, it says the black box-to the wire connections-to the running of it says... It ain't broke yet.

You remote started the bike and that says ground from engine to battery, not engine to frame... think. Then you think; I might have a bad ground to the frame side and the black box might need that side of ground? But then you think; I remote start and that says the frame has to be grounded, because this side does run the black box to keep the bike running... think.

And then you think 3 huge chunks of variables:
1. Black box ~ That says the hardware can still make the software talk back and forth with said jobbers.
2. Ign System ~ That says the bike runs and is not a boat anchor, being the crank sensor makes a bike run as does the black box.
3. Wiring System ~ That says everything from ground to connection to fuse, and this too says it can communicate to every jobber, thru every wire, and no fuse blown says they all work.

Now you think; what could it be if not some software glitch:
Runs ~ Can't be the black box.
Runs ~ Can't be the jobbers that keep working when running.
Runs ~ Can't be the ground when all is running, no LED's blinking.

Only your slam button knows for sure.

Unless I missed something, we have some sort of combo start switch that WD40 won't hurt. Keep pressing the buttons and saturate as you spray, unless you remove the switch and spray. I read air shock leveling with a start button? So if you remote start [slam button] and it starts running, I'd hit the start button and if it grinds as the engine flywheel meets starter pawl [call it], that grind says the start button works, and your ass did not sink-think.

Which now says to me, I take a test light, go to the starter relay and with key on, button pushed, do I have a [test] light up to the relay from switch?

Understand why I write in the long, because the short abstract just won't cut it as you found out? We have a grasp of what I said now in the troubleshooting of a computer bike? Do we call it the ground or the processor needing a clean sheet?
_________________________________________________________
Hman hit it right on the (slam) button. I saw his post come in and refreshed as I was about to send this in. Hman was thinking a map change, and I was thinking a cleaning or the reformatting and that is the map it came with. Either way, this was my 2cents when you asked to explain.

 

[Sven]

... (not possible with WP) it may help.

So that answers that.

Having my WP fry in BumF*ck OK, yours may be on its way out.

And this answers, 'fix it when it breaks, or fix it before it breaks.'

Signed,
My AAA membership is good to tow

 

[jsburkey21]

Yeah you got a short somewhere sounds like and it could be inside the black box or one of the external grounds.....wire plus has several ground wires and most likely all the grounds will be beside the battery hopefully all on one bolt..... but back to what what each box is....the silver box you have is the switching module....the black box is basically the ehc....switching module usually never go bad but the black box will and usually if the go bad they will smell burnt or actually be melted....its a good chance the black box is going bad but hopefully its just a simple short....usally what takes the black box out is the voltage regulator over charging or a dead short in the battery itself...but sounds like you have a good battery by what you are saying....i would look for the grounds from the wireplus and check them to make sure all is good.... then check all the connectors plug on the wireplus where the plug into the harness to make sure they are free from water and nothing arching in the connectors....then try dielectric grease in all the connectors and see what you might have then once all is checked

Do you agree if the bike can start and run by turning the ignition on and jumping the starter that the black box (ECM) is good?

Since none of the hand controls work it would seem to me that either all of the hand controls went out at the same time (highly unlikely) or the switching module went out.

I have been looking over the wiring schematic but it is so blurry i am pretty much guessing at which wires should be + and - at this point. If i could get a clear version i would be able to test for + in the correct wires and - in the correct wires and test the switching of the buttons on the handlebars just to rule that out. Seems more likely to me that the module is fried.

 

[jsburkey21]

Perhaps I can explain... I kinda got the Sven speak figured. What he is saying is if you can downoad a new MAP or go back to the last known good settings(not possible with WP) it may help. A slam button on the starter will help keep you going too, if you jumped the starter and it ran, the WP is ok.
Now for my .02
Having my WP fry in BumF*ck OK, yours may be on its way out. I replaced mine with an Electronix box from WSW. Do as Knotthead suggests and see where you are then....keep posting n we will help ya keep rolling.

haha your like a interpreter! The WP's ECU is ok, its the switching module that i think is bad. I am trying to diagnose it but having little luck reading the diagrams (super blurry).

I plan to call WSW tomorrow and talk it over with them. Thanks for all the help.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

When Mike sent in the manual url, I had no clue what year bike you have so I started paging a late 2005 manual? When Mike said he downloaded his 02 sensors and found one in spec and the other out of spec, this made me think to find one of the files with a way to refresh/restore to original back to seeing if it will start this way?


This is like saying to you, go right click your mouse and see the popup window when that happens? Same as going to a website that sells something, and at the top it says, 'tools' or 'hats' and you click on that, and a dropdown of lists of tools saying, toolbox, tool kits, etc. Hat dropdown says, winter hats, summer hats, things like that is a menu line at the top and each selection clicked has a dropdown window telling you where-what to go-to next. That's a 'dropdown-window' from a menu bar.

So if you added the year of your bike in the post, it has a section like the 2005 manual that says to take a cable from laptop/computer tower and plug it in the black box that has a program you can see on the monitor screen. Find your year, tell me your year, you/I will look thru the pages and see if it says it has a program needing this cable, etc. kind of page as expained in the 2005 manual. Remember, I do not own this bike, but a manual makes things even.

That's the 'if it's a downloadable year,' then it has a program you can look for. Year me out and I'll chase it. And what you are looking for is to think of a brand new computer out of a box and has not one photo of yours, not one url you could save in bookmark. In other words it's like saying the bike starts at zero [0000 = binary numbers] is to clear what is saved/learned and is now fresh out of the box is the little black box as if new out of a box. That's what I'm looking for (if applies). Mike or Mr. Wright should know if this has that ability. The term is called, reformatting a hard drive. That's what you're looking for... if this thing learns... you'd think?


You remote started the bike and that says ground from engine to battery, not engine to frame... think. Then you think; I might have a bad ground to the frame side and the black box might need that side of ground? But then you think; I remote start and that says the frame has to be grounded, because this side does run the black box to keep the bike running... think.

And then you think 3 huge chunks of variables:
1. Black box ~ That says the hardware can still make the software talk back and forth with said jobbers.
2. Ign System ~ That says the bike runs and is not a boat anchor, being the crank sensor makes a bike run as does the black box.
3. Wiring System ~ That says everything from ground to connection to fuse, and this too says it can communicate to every jobber, thru every wire, and no fuse blown says they all work.

Now you think; what could it be if not some software glitch:
Runs ~ Can't be the black box.
Runs ~ Can't be the jobbers that keep working when running.
Runs ~ Can't be the ground when all is running, no LED's blinking.


Unless I missed something, we have some sort of combo start switch that WD40 won't hurt. Keep pressing the buttons and saturate as you spray, unless you remove the switch and spray. I read air shock leveling with a start button? So if you remote start [slam button] and it starts running, I'd hit the start button and if it grinds as the engine flywheel meets starter pawl [call it], that grind says the start button works, and your ass did not sink-think.

Which now says to me, I take a test light, go to the starter relay and with key on, button pushed, do I have a [test] light up to the relay from switch?

Understand why I write in the long, because the short abstract just won't cut it as you found out? We have a grasp of what I said now in the troubleshooting of a computer bike? Do we call it the ground or the processor needing a clean sheet?
_________________________________________________________
Hman hit it right on the (slam) button. I saw his post come in and refreshed as I was about to send this in. Hman was thinking a map change, and I was thinking a cleaning or the reformatting and that is the map it came with. Either way, this was my 2cents when you asked to explain.

Sven,
I mentioned nothing of the O2 sensors on this post.
The point of the manual download for him was so he would know which wires are connected to which switch in the handlebars so when he manually bypassed one, he would know what should happen.

Knot, when my WP went the first time, it was the module that handled all the lights, luckily it was before they went away and I was able to replace it.

I'm with HMAN -- you might want to start thinking about alternatives for that WP system. When my first EHC died, I already had my WP sitting at home, so I knew what the next day project was!

 

[jsburkey21]

When Mike sent in the manual url, I had no clue what year bike you have so I started paging a late 2005 manual? When Mike said he downloaded his 02 sensors and found one in spec and the other out of spec, this made me think to find one of the files with a way to refresh/restore to original back to seeing if it will start this way?


This is like saying to you, go right click your mouse and see the popup window when that happens? Same as going to a website that sells something, and at the top it says, 'tools' or 'hats' and you click on that, and a dropdown of lists of tools saying, toolbox, tool kits, etc. Hat dropdown says, winter hats, summer hats, things like that is a menu line at the top and each selection clicked has a dropdown window telling you where-what to go-to next. That's a 'dropdown-window' from a menu bar.

So if you added the year of your bike in the post, it has a section like the 2005 manual that says to take a cable from laptop/computer tower and plug it in the black box that has a program you can see on the monitor screen. Find your year, tell me your year, you/I will look thru the pages and see if it says it has a program needing this cable, etc. kind of page as expained in the 2005 manual. Remember, I do not own this bike, but a manual makes things even.

That's the 'if it's a downloadable year,' then it has a program you can look for. Year me out and I'll chase it. And what you are looking for is to think of a brand new computer out of a box and has not one photo of yours, not one url you could save in bookmark. In other words it's like saying the bike starts at zero [0000 = binary numbers] is to clear what is saved/learned and is now fresh out of the box is the little black box as if new out of a box. That's what I'm looking for (if applies). Mike or Mr. Wright should know if this has that ability. The term is called, reformatting a hard drive. That's what you're looking for... if this thing learns... you'd think?


You remote started the bike and that says ground from engine to battery, not engine to frame... think. Then you think; I might have a bad ground to the frame side and the black box might need that side of ground? But then you think; I remote start and that says the frame has to be grounded, because this side does run the black box to keep the bike running... think.

And then you think 3 huge chunks of variables:
1. Black box ~ That says the hardware can still make the software talk back and forth with said jobbers.
2. Ign System ~ That says the bike runs and is not a boat anchor, being the crank sensor makes a bike run as does the black box.
3. Wiring System ~ That says everything from ground to connection to fuse, and this too says it can communicate to every jobber, thru every wire, and no fuse blown says they all work.

Now you think; what could it be if not some software glitch:
Runs ~ Can't be the black box.
Runs ~ Can't be the jobbers that keep working when running.
Runs ~ Can't be the ground when all is running, no LED's blinking.


Unless I missed something, we have some sort of combo start switch that WD40 won't hurt. Keep pressing the buttons and saturate as you spray, unless you remove the switch and spray. I read air shock leveling with a start button? So if you remote start [slam button] and it starts running, I'd hit the start button and if it grinds as the engine flywheel meets starter pawl [call it], that grind says the start button works, and your ass did not sink-think.

Which now says to me, I take a test light, go to the starter relay and with key on, button pushed, do I have a [test] light up to the relay from switch?

Understand why I write in the long, because the short abstract just won't cut it as you found out? We have a grasp of what I said now in the troubleshooting of a computer bike? Do we call it the ground or the processor needing a clean sheet?
_________________________________________________________
Hman hit it right on the (slam) button. I saw his post come in and refreshed as I was about to send this in. Hman was thinking a map change, and I was thinking a cleaning or the reformatting and that is the map it came with. Either way, this was my 2cents when you asked to explain.

Thanks for your input. I have done most of the testing you suggested and determined that either the switch module is bad or a wire that is supposed to send signal to/from the handlebar switches has a problem. I spent a couple hours looking for bad wires/connections and found nothing. The switching module uses the ground input from the handlebar switches to trigger 12+ outputs to the accessories. Since they are grounded i assume i could unplug the module and get a different result. If the wires are not grounded with the module unplugged i can assume the module is shorted (more likely than ALL of the handlebar buttons going out at once on both sides).

 

[knothead]

Do you agree if the bike can start and run by turning the ignition on and jumping the starter that the black box (ECM) is good?

Since none of the hand controls work it would seem to me that either all of the hand controls went out at the same time (highly unlikely) or the switching module went out.

I have been looking over the wiring schematic but it is so blurry i am pretty much guessing at which wires should be + and - at this point. If i could get a clear version i would be able to test for + in the correct wires and - in the correct wires and test the switching of the buttons on the handlebars just to rule that out. Seems more likely to me that the module is fried.

Yeah i agree the ecm is good, no doubt about it if the bike starts and runs off the slam button....i just have never seen a switching module go bad on the wireplus kit....im not saying they dont but i havent seen one go bad....and there is no way both boards in the hand controls went out at the same time....there is something shorted somewhere...could be in the switching module or between it and the hand control boards....could even be in the headlight bucket....all the boards are super sensitive to any kind of voltage change and ofcourse the tach and speedo will show it even faster if there is something going on electrical wise....but also by the pic you posted of the switching module, those 3 lights are lite up and suppose to be so thats where im still thinking there is something else wrong besides the switching module...

I also am with hman and jersey Mike its about time to look in a alternative system because of the out dated and no support wireplus system... backbone harness, which is a must to go back to stock configuration, and the electronix kit would be the way i would go like they are saying..which you said your going to call wildsteedworks and he has those items you need to replace what needs to be replaced

 

[jsburkey21]

Yeah i agree the ecm is good, no doubt about it if the bike starts and runs off the slam button....i just have never seen a switching module go bad on the wireplus kit....im not saying they dont but i havent seen one go bad....and there is no way both boards in the hand controls went out at the same time....there is something shorted somewhere...could be in the switching module or between it and the hand control boards....could even be in the headlight bucket....all the boards are super sensitive to any kind of voltage change and ofcourse the tach and speedo will show it even faster if there is something going on electrical wise....but also by the pic you posted of the switching module, those 3 lights are lite up and suppose to be so thats where im still thinking there is something else wrong besides the switching module...

I also am with hman and jersey Mike its about time to look in a alternative system because of the out dated and no support wireplus system... backbone harness, which is a must to go back to stock configuration, and the electronix kit would be the way i would go like they are saying..which you said your going to call wildsteedworks and he has those items you need to replace what needs to be replaced

Thanks knothead. My thoughts exactly. There has to be a short (or the module is shorted). Ive been trying to trace wiring but i cant read the schematics. They are just too blurry. Ive got the bike apart again tonight trying to diagnose where the handlebars get their feed from, and which wires the handle bar outputs correspond to. If i can figure that out i can check for voltage and/or continuity between the circuits. Just gotta figure out which wire is which now and start the process.

 

[jsburkey21]

First thing to do is check the handlebar switches.
Download the manual if you haven't already. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/4342373flodnbhj/AACDvhA93EOHPPKCs2gYPQDPa?dl=0anualsan
Pull one side off and test those functions by manually grounding each switch.
If everything works you might need new switches or perhaps to let them really dry out (Did you get the controls wet while cleaning the bike)

If it is the Wires Plus, well your SOL as they're not been made in years.
I have a RIP2 which has served me well, but there are varying opinions on what to use and I will defer that to people that have used more than one system.

Hey Jersey, The schematics i downloaded from the drop box link have (2) jpg files that contain the wiring schematics for the bike. They are super blurry and i cannot make them out. Do you happen to have a clear copy of them by any chance?

 

[jsburkey21]

im having to guess at the schematic but someone let me know if i am right on this:

The handlebar controls have a ground buss going to them. When a button is depressed the circuit is completed and the controler gets the ground signal which in turn sends a 12v+ signal to the accessory.

So if i have continuity from a chassis/battery ground to the output of the corresponding wire of the switch that is depressed then the handlebar controls are working properly. I just have to figure out which wire to test when each control is depressed on the bars.

If the module is getting the signal but not sending out a 12v+ to the accessory then either the module has a bad power/ground or it is fried.

Anyone disagree with my understanding of the system?

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Hey Jersey, The schematics i downloaded from the drop box link have (2) jpg files that contain the wiring schematics for the bike. They are super blurry and i cannot make them out. Do you happen to have a clear copy of them by any chance?

Try using the PDF for the bike and look at the electrical diagram which will show which colors in handle bars provide each function.
I'll look and see what I still have.

 

[Jersey Big Mike]

Try using the PDF for the bike and look at the electrical diagram which will show which colors in handle bars provide each function.
I'll look and see what I still have.

here's the wp374 scan I have.

 

[jsburkey21]

i tried troubleshooting for a couple more hours and it has been a difficult process. Nothing seems to be what i believe it should. Grounds where there should be open circuits. Continuity in places there shouldnt be. Very confusing and frustrating. My diagnosis is that the EHC has decided to die on me completing circuits in ways they should not be connected. According to Wild Steel Works the voltage regulator on these bikes goes out and starts to fry electronics randomly.

I ordered a complete new system from Wild Steel Works. New harnesses, New VR, New ECU, New New New. This thing has let me down a couple times and I am done working on it. $1300 for everything. if it works and i dont have any more problems, WELL worth the money.