Have you put any dielectric grease in the main EHC plug? Its possible you have a loose pin or connection? The dielectric grease will help with electrical connections. Cheap to try.
06 K9 shutting down
- Thread starter 06bigdogk9
- Start date
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Consider the possibility that your Rt hand control board could be funky and somehow shutting down the bike. This is a pic of my connector when I checked mine out. Small shavings all over it. This link will help you test the wiring coming from the PCB. while your in there. It seems I send this out a couple times a month. Common failure for sure.
Attachments
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
Don't do that, or call me a firepit -- will gladly drive up and remove it for you, won't even charge a disposal fee!
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
it sounds like you may have a broken or frayed wire - can be annoying to find."
Fire the bike up and wiggle and bounce every wire you can, give them a gentle tug.
if it dies during any of that chase that wire.
Have you pulled the headlight bucket yet and checked the socket?
Fire the bike up and wiggle and bounce every wire you can, give them a gentle tug.
if it dies during any of that chase that wire.
Have you pulled the headlight bucket yet and checked the socket?
Have to remember on a computer bike, things clear and show no codes, lights blinking at the dash, winkers flash, but all goes out when the restart occurs.
That says the telemetry is not out of spec. Only thing left is connector not connected, wire out of a connector, short, open, signal out of range-component out of spec.
So I'm going to go thru the 'is not's:
Connector not connected: Shows it clears the codes.
Connector wire out of connector: Shows codes clear.
Short: Always restarts, everything works, no blinks, no winks.
Open: Wire harness of every wire is connected from A to B.
Signal out of range: Shows a code that can self diagnose itself.
Dart throwing to see WATT sticks is the off the wall:
Remember magnetism: where the chemical reaction at the heat source is the connect.
Remember you bought this bike with years of condensation at the connectors. The heat cycling and cooling of the male's hollow shaft at the pin, the growing chemical reaction at the female's you tear is most likely crusty, fuzzy follicles of resistance.
That says to think a chemical reaction: is to look at a battery cable attached to the battery's negative post. That is electricity (mag) working the theory of, 'cannot separate heat from the chemical reaction.' That says; fresh metal contact filed away at the ground cable to the frame, and main ground harness to frame. Then the face of the other end of the cable is a straight razor scrubbed at the face meeting the [razor scrapped away[ at the battery post.
The male/female pins need to have a scrape of new metal rubbed away at the disconnects/reconnects. Dick in the hole for over a decade. The disconnect is to look for white powder at the connectors. That can stop the flow of E.
For it to kill the 12v into the processor, have to individually trace the 12v + side of the wire from A to B. Say it's the key switch. Where is the chemRe inside the connector pins? Switch was changed and if a connector end is the simple connect, then it's a shot at the wall to disconnect/reconnect so as to rub new metal at the pins.
At the connector ends, look inside for black arc burn. With 12v on, the momentary disconnect would show a spike at some connect point to search out.
Wire 'work harden':
Where the coil wire end vibrates the strands at the crimp connect work hardens less flow thru less strands.
That says the telemetry is not out of spec. Only thing left is connector not connected, wire out of a connector, short, open, signal out of range-component out of spec.
So I'm going to go thru the 'is not's:
Connector not connected: Shows it clears the codes.
Connector wire out of connector: Shows codes clear.
Short: Always restarts, everything works, no blinks, no winks.
Open: Wire harness of every wire is connected from A to B.
Signal out of range: Shows a code that can self diagnose itself.
Dart throwing to see WATT sticks is the off the wall:
Remember magnetism: where the chemical reaction at the heat source is the connect.
Remember you bought this bike with years of condensation at the connectors. The heat cycling and cooling of the male's hollow shaft at the pin, the growing chemical reaction at the female's you tear is most likely crusty, fuzzy follicles of resistance.
That says to think a chemical reaction: is to look at a battery cable attached to the battery's negative post. That is electricity (mag) working the theory of, 'cannot separate heat from the chemical reaction.' That says; fresh metal contact filed away at the ground cable to the frame, and main ground harness to frame. Then the face of the other end of the cable is a straight razor scrubbed at the face meeting the [razor scrapped away[ at the battery post.
The male/female pins need to have a scrape of new metal rubbed away at the disconnects/reconnects. Dick in the hole for over a decade. The disconnect is to look for white powder at the connectors. That can stop the flow of E.
For it to kill the 12v into the processor, have to individually trace the 12v + side of the wire from A to B. Say it's the key switch. Where is the chemRe inside the connector pins? Switch was changed and if a connector end is the simple connect, then it's a shot at the wall to disconnect/reconnect so as to rub new metal at the pins.
At the connector ends, look inside for black arc burn. With 12v on, the momentary disconnect would show a spike at some connect point to search out.
Wire 'work harden':
Where the coil wire end vibrates the strands at the crimp connect work hardens less flow thru less strands.
06bigdogk9
New Member
Yes I did that the other day, no change.
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
The 12v to the EHC is a constant connection -- it is not controlled by the key switch.
Check for any wires pulled tight especially where they come thru frame and run down to ehc.
I just had 2 that had worn thru from rubbing and copper was expposed and subject to shorting intermittently.
Check for any wires pulled tight especially where they come thru frame and run down to ehc.
I just had 2 that had worn thru from rubbing and copper was expposed and subject to shorting intermittently.
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
that is correct. Check the wiring diagrams -- power goes direct to controller (likely a VR there that they don't show as its not a full schematic)
On the 08 diagrams power goes direct to A3 which is wired to EHC.
That era microcontroller would have been a little pita tohave memory that didn't require power and was fast and could take a large # of rewrites.
Finallly now there are options (no not sd ram but FRAM ferroelectric ram) https://www.infineon.com/cms/en/product/memories/f-ram-ferroelectric-ram/
Am planning on using that in my gas gauge I am working on for the K-9 EFI so I can store the used amount of gas, miles etc when the bike is shut off without adding any more parasitic drain. Will use it as well if I ever have to re-do the EFI (since S&S no longer makes on for the 117 BDM)
If I ever get energetic I might just integrate the EFI, EHC and gas gauge together in one unit. Got to get back on that project as soon as I get the transmission installed on the K-9
06bigdogk9
New Member
So I've got it all tore apart, wiggling wires while it runs etc. Can't find anything. It will however shutoff if I let it run around 2k rpm. Fires right back up. That's the only rpm range that happens. I'm starting to think it's not electrical and has something to do with the carb.
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
I'd check the coil before screwing with the carb
does it backfire at 2K. What range makes it fail 2K to 2.5K and is ok at 3K
over does it fail at anything above 2K
06bigdogk9
New Member
I replaced the entire ignition system including the coil, above 2k or below it seems ok