K9 Rear Wheel Install Helper (mini How-To)

Energy One

Brent Herridge

Active Member
I made every mistake possible the last 2 days, so hopefully this helps someone.

To remove the rear wheel, remove the axle covers, unscrew the bolt on left side, and use hammer & screwdriver to push out the axle.

Get your tire mounted, and put the wheel inside the fender. Then push the wheel all the way forward and get the belt on the pulley.

I found it easiest to lower the bike/jack to align the bike and wheel. You can lift the wheel by hand, but you'll need a helper to push in the axle.

Line up wheel and bike, then do the following in this order, avoiding these pitfalls, which I'll discuss how to discover.
  1. Push axle in from RIGHT side. You know this is correct because you pushed it out that side. Just remember.........(my 1st mistake). You can tell if this is your problem because the right end of the axle is solid and is too big to fit thru the left edge of the swingarm.
  2. Spacers:
    1. Larger spacer goes on right side between pulley and swing arm. Lip goes in toward bearings.
    2. Two smaller spacers go on either side of the caliper bracket. One of them also has a lip, and again, it goes in toward the bearing. Flat spacer is on outside edge between swingarm and caliper bracket.
    3. PROBLEM - if you don't have the lips facing the bearings, when you tighten the axle bolt, the wheel is too tight and won't move freely.
    4. PROBLEM - if you have omitted a spacer, you'll see gaps, and if bike is lifted, the wheel will move right to left.
spacer gap_small.JPG

4. Adjustment Screws - if your tire is adjusted OK, don't mess with these. But you have to pry the axle backwards with a screwdriver to fit behind the adjuster screws that go back from the front of the opening.
a. PROBLEM - if you don't pry the axle behind the adjuster, you could tighten it on top of the adjuster. You'll know this happened because 1) belt is crazy loose and 2) axle is too far to the right since the adjuster is preventing it from going all the way in. Do the right one first to set the belt, then push (hammer) axle all the way through, then pry the left side after you start the bolt into the axle. The big washer is what holds it against the adjuster.

5. If you are forced to move the adjusters - there are 2 screws. Outermost screw locks the actual adjuster. But to prevent the lock from moving the adjuster, do it in this order:
  1. Loosen the axle bolt.
  2. Remove the adjuster lock screws
  3. Adjust the adjustment screws to get the wheel where you want it.
  4. Tighten the axle
  5. Put lock screw in, and put your finger on the adjustment screw.
  6. Tighten the lock screw until you feel the adjuster begin to move.
  7. Stop. If you're not holding the adjuster with your finger, it will move A LOT as you tighten the adjuster screw.
  8. Put axle covers back on. (Don't do it before step 5)
Its not a bad job if you get this right the first time. :)
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Not that hard to mount of yourself. I have mounted all of mine just buy a couple tire tools and some Rim savers
I was never able to break the bead on the old tires (300) before I gave up and just used a shop.
I'm getting mine done for 20-30 these days (mounting only). Found a great shop close to me for that kind of work.
 

Brent Herridge

Active Member
$30 is a great deal. The shop I used to go to for general repairs could mount them. A regular bike shop that sells lots of ATVs does them for me now. Apparently ATVs, or side-by-sides, or whatever you call those dune buggies Polaris and others make, have pretty wide tires too.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
$30 is a great deal. The shop I used to go to for general repairs could mount them. A regular bike shop that sells lots of ATVs does them for me now. Apparently ATVs, or side-by-sides, or whatever you call those dune buggies Polaris and others make, have pretty wide tires too.
Yeah, sure beats the $85 or so that the Harley dealer charges.
I've actually found 2 shops in my area that will do it for that, one is a couple blocks from my house the other that I use now about 4miles (his hours are better and he works on HD's) the other guy us a metric.atv guy. My guy 4miles away will usually do it while I wait (or help if no one's in the shop)
Really lucked out with this shop -- he's helped me with a few other things as well.
 

Clay9

Member
My old tire has a slow leak, and now I'm sidelined waiting for some place that can mount my new tire. I never knew it was that hard to get done!!!
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
My old tire has a slow leak, and now I'm sidelined waiting for some place that can mount my new tire. I never knew it was that hard to get done!!!
Have you checked All American Motorcycles in Tuscon -- I don't know anything about them but their web page shows a fat tire bike so maybe they can do the tire?
 

chili08k9

I will buy the 1st round
Clay I always take mine to a place that sells big auto rims. they do it for about 20 bucks and no scratches
 

Butsch Wind

Member
Hi Guys . please tell me - to replace the old tire with a new one, do I need to remove the pulley from the rear wheel disc? Or can the tire be removed/installed on a fully assembled wheel with a pulley? Thanks in advance
 

Butsch Wind

Member
Is the pulley and rotor clocked on these, or will they fit anywhere?
I am also interested in the answer to this question. I always thought that the pulley was simply screwed to the disc, and then the entire wheel assembly was simply centered - relative to the pulley on the gearbox... Let's wait for a response from our pros
 

Butsch Wind

Member
Greetings to everyone! Guys please tell me - when we put the 300 wheel, the brake caliper should be disconnected from the brake lines, and installed on the brake disc, and only then installed the wheel? I replaced the tire and installed new brake pads, and I see that I will most likely not be able to get into the brake disc with the brake caliper (((. So you need to disconnect the caliper from the brake hoses, put it on the brake disc, and only then install the wheel in the bike, already with the brake caliper on? Right?
 
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