old school wiring

Energy One
Sup, BD brothers, I introcuced myself last night on the forum and i feel much love and for that THANK YOU. and as all here we wanna get our slabs right and running like they should and done correctly for the most part, maybe a little outside the box but hell as long as ur riding is what i say. the reason i reached out to you fellas is i am rewiring my 05 BD chopper and i am getting close ( maybe). but i am using HD controls from a 97 fatboy and wire colors match but the wires go to different parts of the bike from controls and from the chopper. i would hit the horn and my hi beams would come on Bahahaha. not really but anyway i was wondering if anyone here would have the wiring schematis and the step by step to do this teadious challenge that i am willing to take on none the less. just want if it screws up well its on me and not anyone else.. i am knowledged on reading wiring schematis and i tell you what some of the schematics on this forum and stupid crazy good had to be done by somw Mad Scientist i swear it. but if any one has that detailed way of doing this i would be greatful. i got the bike from a guy that was gonna part it out and i just coulndt see this fucking Badass Bike being tore apart excuse the language, but that dude was plum loco. so i havent even got it fired up but i am sooooo dam close i cant sleep.. so can one of you guys help me with that and i will post some piks of mySlab later on then you can see why i though he was plum loco. still over cooks my grits when i think about it.. thanks for listening .......Kidd
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
Bear in mind, Harley (old school) controls switched 12v to circuit.
BDM controller uses GROUND from switch to EHC to control the function.
You'll notice that the wires are larger on the harley controls by default

So are you re-using the original BDM harness or has a new harness been installed?
Are you using the original EHC (computer) or are you replacing it and going total old school wiring?
 
Bear in mind, Harley (old school) controls switched 12v to circuit.
BDM controller uses GROUND from switch to EHC to control the function.
You'll notice that the wires are larger on the harley controls by default

So are you re-using the original BDM harness or has a new harness been installed?
Are you using the original EHC (computer) or are you replacing it and going total old school wiring?
i am going total
Bear in mind, Harley (old school) controls switched 12v to circuit.
BDM controller uses GROUND from switch to EHC to control the function.
You'll notice that the wires are larger on the harley controls by default

So are you re-using the original BDM harness or has a new harness been installed?
Are you using the original EHC (computer) or are you replacing it and going total old school wiring?
I've completely went old school and deleted the EHC and have already wired the ignition to the ignition coil, ran the 40 amp relay to the regulator and stator. Still needing to rewire netural, speed sensor, oil sensor, head and tail light, and the ELC. Compression Release Valves, and the Tach.

What's got me tripping out, is where the HD controllers marry into the system. That's why I'm looking for the Current Dummy (I can't believe you're doing your own) Wiring Schematic.

I'm not rewiring the blinkers, because.. I don't like people knowing where I'm going.. Old school hand signals, ALL DAY!!
 

Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
It's been done by others. You probably won't be able to used the handle bar switches. Replace the key switch with a 3 position switch. Off/On/Start since you won't have turn signals that's done. Either run the head light off the on switch, low beam only. Or add another toggle switch for high beam some where. Remember the stock wiring from the old switches is rated only for low current. It only took less then 1 amp to ground to let the computer know to turn on another output.
 

Rottweiler

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
If the old wiring is still all there. The other option is to just get a new EHC. The new ones are reliable and everything will work as original.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
i am going total


I've completely went old school and deleted the EHC and have already wired the ignition to the ignition coil, ran the 40 amp relay to the regulator and stator. Still needing to rewire netural, speed sensor, oil sensor, head and tail light, and the ELC. Compression Release Valves, and the Tach.

What's got me tripping out, is where the HD controllers marry into the system. That's why I'm looking for the Current Dummy (I can't believe you're doing your own) Wiring Schematic.

I'm not rewiring the blinkers, because.. I don't like people knowing where I'm going.. Old school hand signals, ALL DAY!!
I would recommend looking at a NAMZ unit for the lights (brake/turn signal/flashers etc) to make it easier than having to HOLD the turn signal button to get it to stay flashing.
 
im not going to use turn signals, i guess what im asking for is just a old school simplfied wiring diagram with bare bones just the hot wire down the backbone and everything tied into that as well as grounded to chassis or where needed if that makes since to anyone.. i got the bike not running and put it back together from that idot that had it before me but i wanna fire it up something fierce and im into the wiring too deep to go back EHC or anything like that it would be too costly..and to be honest i like the simple bare bones wiring i had a 99 softail with a S&S 113 that was wired that way and i never had any problems what so ever the only difference was the compresion valves where manuel and not elec. but on that when wiring the elec. realease valves do i wire them to the power on the ignition or when i turn the key to the start????
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
im not going to use turn signals, i guess what im asking for is just a old school simplfied wiring diagram with bare bones just the hot wire down the backbone and everything tied into that as well as grounded to chassis or where needed if that makes since to anyone.. i got the bike not running and put it back together from that idot that had it before me but i wanna fire it up something fierce and im into the wiring too deep to go back EHC or anything like that it would be too costly..and to be honest i like the simple bare bones wiring i had a 99 softail with a S&S 113 that was wired that way and i never had any problems what so ever the only difference was the compresion valves where manuel and not elec. but on that when wiring the elec. realease valves do i wire them to the power on the ignition or when i turn the key to the start????
Wire the compression releases to the starter relay.
The namz units for turn/run/brake run $90-120 and I really like having turn signals at night/dusk. And I can't think of how many times I've used my 4 way flashers going down the road over the years for my safety.
I have an old school schematic from my first bike, I'll get into the shed so I can scan it tomorrow for you.
It's pretty straight forward
VR Fuse Battery
Battery FUSE to MAIN SWITCH FUSE to lights
Main switch FUSE ignition
etc
Main switch FUSE Start button to starter relay (signal/activate), output top starter and C/R's
Battery FUSE starter relay POWER
Battery HEAVY CABLE to Starter +
Heavy cable to starter case/ground to ground (-) of battery
Horn to relay to horn button to battery

Do use multiple seperate fuses

Most states you are required to have turn sigals on a bike later than 1974. You might not be able to pass inspection depending on where you are without them and it might effect the resale value down the road.
 

Jersey Big Mike

100K mile club
BMC918ST_wiring_diagram.jpg
This was the wiring diagram for my BMC918ST Chopper that was wired OLD SCHOOL.
You had to hold down the turn signal buttons for them to continue to flash -- a PITA.
Hope this helps.
If not I can always draw a new one pretty easily.
 

Mikeinjersey

Well-Known Member
Keep in mind that the electric compression releases are only meant to be on for about 1 sec in order for the cylinders to get momentum. Once cranking you need to close them to get compression to start. Maybe a momentary on push button to operate them is needed?
Have you ever considered MotoGadget M-unit for your old school wiring?
 
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