Circuit Breaker
- Thread starter Quilo
- Start date
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Unless you are troubleshooting the CB itself you only need to put a meter across the battery terminals and it should read (healthy) 12.8 volts and with the engine running 14.2-14.5 but not more.
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Quilo
Member
I will read thru this and see what I can find I have been having issues since the cold weather has hit and only get a click when trying to start. Battery is goodUnless you are troubleshooting the CB itself you only need to put a meter across the battery terminals and it should read (healthy) 12.8 volts and with the engine running 14.2-14.5 but not more.
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Quilo
Member
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
The click you are hearing is probably the compression releases when you hit start. Put your finger on top of the CRs and you will feel if they are firing. You can pull the green wire off the starter solenoid and read voltage when you hit the start button. It should go to about 12vdc when the button is depressed. If your getting the 12vdc the ehc is getting the signal from the switch and providing the starter solenoid voltage to operate. If the voltage is correct your issue is most likely inside the starter. The wire inside that connects to the green wire likes to break. If the starter is clicking it may just be burnt contacts.
Quilo
Member
Yea I have done that but I’m lacking 12vdc I’m only getting 8.8vdc
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How do you know the battery is good? These bikes need a strong fully charged one, especially in cold weather. Follow what mike said in the previous post. If you have voltage on the green wire at starter. Before taking the starter apart, you can jump the battery with a car battery but leave the car off. Not running. A weak battery could also cause your problem.
Quilo
Member
Measuring green cable away from starter im getting that 8vdc that is
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Quilo
Member
Because It’s a new battery and I charged it before trying to diagnose issue
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Quilo
Member
I thought battery was the issue as well but nope battery is ruled out
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bikeone
Well-Known Member
Replaced Battery has enough cca tuturn the engineß
Did u tried it with a jump start?
Before search in right switchboard and starter figure out this.Broken or burnt
contacts is the next step.
EHC would be the next step.What ledś burning or flashing?
check nout first the cheaper solutions.
Did u tried it with a jump start?
Before search in right switchboard and starter figure out this.Broken or burnt
contacts is the next step.
EHC would be the next step.What ledś burning or flashing?
check nout first the cheaper solutions.
When you hear click, that says the guy pressing on that ass in front of him is more he is farting on the push. If you can grasp that a volt stands for PUSH, you can read his flatulence factor and how much fart the push has left.
If you can again, grasp WATT Click is to PUSH... you then can tell a new battery, being charged up, was not prepped for any fart level of a push.
When push comes to shove, do we have a brain fart thinking that if click comes to push... how do you spell prorate?
Check my compression clickers, like both go out at once? Set flatulence factor to 20v. Read the push number once you hit the start button. WATThell does the factor say now? Fart factor 9.v? Fart all day at 11v or how do you spell no farts left in the black box you have?
Does not take a shop man you will pay not prepping a new battery yourself.
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Your compression releases are in the middle of the top of heads. When you hit start the CR's should fire for 1 second. Test it with the green wire disconnected so you don't inadvertently have an accident and also so you can clearly know where the click is coming from. You can also feel them with your fingers. If one of them is ceased that could cause you an over-current. The blue light indicates a short, open or over-current but maybe during startup that's normal I can't answer that. You may actually have a problem with that but check easy stuff first.
Have your battery load tested! New doesn't always mean good. Run a jumper wire directly to the solenoid on the starter in place of the green wire and apply momentarily 12vdc from the bike battery. If it cranks you will know the starter and the grounds for the starter are good and you can troubleshoot elsewhere. If not continue and troubleshoot the starter.
This probably won't fix your issue but it is a good policy to remove your ehc connectors an re-grease and re-seat them ever once in a while.
It can't be stressed enough but the Battery Must be Tested or you could spend hours going down rabbit holes only to find your new battery had an internal short causing your issues.
Also the 8 volts your getting may be OK at least it's telling you the ehc is getting the signal and sending a voltage. For now assume that is normal.
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Do you have a digital meter? If so clamp leads to the battery terms. Should be 12 vdc With green wire connected turn on key, press run then start, hold for no longer than 4 seconds while watching volt meter. If volts go below 9 vdc turn off key. Jump bike with car off and watch volt meter again. If the battery volts stay high and you only get 8 vdc on green wire check the ground from the battery to frame / starter.
8 vdc on that green wire sounds low, if the battery is also 8 volts bike will never start.
8 vdc on that green wire sounds low, if the battery is also 8 volts bike will never start.
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Mr. Wright
Knows some things
Go back to the basics. What battery did you put in there?