Unplug the voltage regulator. Charge up the battery. Get a spare plug pull one plug wire and test for spark.
2004 BDC troubles
- Thread starter Forrest&Melissa
- Start date
Forrest&Melissa
Member
First of all let me say thank u to everyone who replied. But I need to say that i am so confused i do not know where to begin. Everyone has something different to say. Please go back and read post #22 that will kinda sum up where I'm at and what i done please don't give up on me just yet
Burn this in your head so even a BBQ makes sense... I'm going to drag you thru this so as mentioned, we eliminate what and pinpoint to who is out of the loop.
Compression: Better known as backyard air.
Fuel: Where the grill is filled with paper on the bottom, briquettes on top, a can of starting fuel soaking in the bricks.
Spark: Where are the matches? Simple theory, right? Burn that reapply to the car/bike/boat/plane/train theory.
Compression: It stared up and rode 8 miles without stalling for lack of compression... it's not compression.
Fuel: There was enough gas in the tank to get there, and probably back, so it's not the fuel system, because the bike did not stall.
Spark: You remove the spark plugs so the engine turns over easier; put the plugs back in the wire; place the plugs away from the plug holes, or gas is going to come out in a huge mist, and light off the house, your face, etc.
We know it's not the battery because it cranks the engine over, not tick-tick because of a low battery. We clear our head away from the hole, aim the eyes at the spark plugs resting on the heads or down between cylinders and watch for a spark. Say it sparks. We can answer your question and say the timing is off, where we center the cam sensor's slots in the middle. That, or you crossed spark plug wires.
Say it's no spark. Sounds like no spark because if it was crossed plug wires, it would have spark and backfire. So do you have spark, key on, kill switch to on?
Compression: Better known as backyard air.
Fuel: Where the grill is filled with paper on the bottom, briquettes on top, a can of starting fuel soaking in the bricks.
Spark: Where are the matches? Simple theory, right? Burn that reapply to the car/bike/boat/plane/train theory.
Compression: It stared up and rode 8 miles without stalling for lack of compression... it's not compression.
Fuel: There was enough gas in the tank to get there, and probably back, so it's not the fuel system, because the bike did not stall.
Spark: You remove the spark plugs so the engine turns over easier; put the plugs back in the wire; place the plugs away from the plug holes, or gas is going to come out in a huge mist, and light off the house, your face, etc.
We know it's not the battery because it cranks the engine over, not tick-tick because of a low battery. We clear our head away from the hole, aim the eyes at the spark plugs resting on the heads or down between cylinders and watch for a spark. Say it sparks. We can answer your question and say the timing is off, where we center the cam sensor's slots in the middle. That, or you crossed spark plug wires.
Say it's no spark. Sounds like no spark because if it was crossed plug wires, it would have spark and backfire. So do you have spark, key on, kill switch to on?
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Well his cam sensor is still good
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Hope you had a great Christmas!!
From all the info you have given, my advice to you would be to focus on the new ignition you installed. I believe your bike comes stock with what is known as a Duel Fire system. If you replaced the ignition with a Single Fire system you would need to change your coil to the appropriate type. Let us know exactly which system you installed and someone on this site will know how to configure it if need be and also how to troubleshoot it. Try not to get too weirded out by all this. I know it can be very frustrating when you don't know which way to go. Remember Fuel, Spark, Compression and Timing . I think you have stated you have Fuel for sure now get Spark fixed then move to Timing. Your bike was running when this all started so Compression is probably good.
Double and triple check all you have done to make sure your work was done correctly. Especially the Ignition install. Good Luck
Forrest&Melissa
Member
Hope you had a great Christmas!!
From all the info you have given, my advice to you would be to focus on the new ignition you installed. I believe your bike comes stock with what is known as a Duel Fire system. If you replaced the ignition with a Single Fire system you would need to change your coil to the appropriate type. Let us know exactly which system you installed and someone on this site will know how to configure it if need be and also how to troubleshoot it. Try not to get too weirded out by all this. I know it can be very frustrating when you don't know which way to go. Remember Fuel, Spark, Compression and Timing . I think you have stated you have Fuel for sure now get Spark fixed then move to Timing. Your bike was running when this all started so Compression is probably good.
Double and triple check all you have done to make sure your work was done correctly. Especially the Ignition install. Good Luck
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Thank you for ur advice and help he did go back and checked things on the new DYNA 2000i ignition he notice that there was no lights on the DYNA IGNITION and found out he had to reground a ground wire and boom the lights came on did its self check everythings good so now he thinks all he has to do is timing
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Thank you for ur advice and help he did go back and checked things on the new DYNA 2000i ignition he notice that there was no lights on the DYNA IGNITION and found out he had to reground a ground wire and boom the lights came on did its self check everythings good so now he thinks all he has to do is timing
[/QUOTE]
I'm assuming that after you got the ignition light to come on you tried to start the bike without success.
OK , First I would do what Rottweiler suggested in post #41. Unplug the VR just in case it's shorted and started all this issue. It only charges the battery so the bike can run without it. After you get the bike running you can worry about the VR.
Next you could jack the bike up, put it in 6th gear and rotate the tire in order to see if the ignition red light blinks as it turns. If it does blink it means the cam sensor is working and sending the signal.
Next check for the spark plugs to fire. Everyone does it different ways but in your case I would remove both plugs so the engine will turn easy. Take a new or spare plug as Rottweiler said and plug it into one of the plug wires. Ground the plug by holding it against the block or any good ground. In neutral , briefly crank the engine and look for the plug to spark. If it does that cylinder is good so move on and test the other cylinder the same way. IF no spark come back for additional advice to troubleshoot the coil .
Keep in mind your coil and ignition need to match as in Single Fire or Duel Fire. I believe your stock coil is for duel fire. Since you are not the original owner you need to verify that . I looked up that the DYNA 2000i is programmable for either coil on bit 6 . Bit 6 set to OFF is for duel fire.
It may not feel like it but you are making progress and learning in the mean time.
1 B.M.F.
Well-Known Member
I don’t want to confuse you at all.
The new cam sensor has to be put back exactly where the old one you took off. In the exact same position the old one was. The screw slots are curved so you could have spun it just a hair out of position. You may already know that but just want to reinforce that. You might have to play with it to get timing set.
The new cam sensor has to be put back exactly where the old one you took off. In the exact same position the old one was. The screw slots are curved so you could have spun it just a hair out of position. You may already know that but just want to reinforce that. You might have to play with it to get timing set.
Forrest&Melissa
Member
So were not getting any spark to the spark plugs any suggestions
Forrest&Melissa
Member
I'm assuming that after you got the ignition light to come on you tried to start the bike without success.
OK , First I would do what Rottweiler suggested in post #41. Unplug the VR just in case it's shorted and started all this issue. It only charges the battery so the bike can run without it. After you get the bike running you can worry about the VR.
Next you could jack the bike up, put it in 6th gear and rotate the tire in order to see if the ignition red light blinks as it turns. If it does blink it means the cam sensor is working and sending the signal.
Next check for the spark plugs to fire. Everyone does it different ways but in your case I would remove both plugs so the engine will turn easy. Take a new or spare plug as Rottweiler said and plug it into one of the plug wires. Ground the plug by holding it against the block or any good ground. In neutral , briefly crank the engine and look for the plug to spark. If it does that cylinder is good so move on and test the other cylinder the same way. IF no spark come back for additional advice to troubleshoot the coil .
Keep in mind your coil and ignition need to match as in Single Fire or Duel Fire. I believe your stock coil is for duel fire. Since you are not the original owner you need to verify that . I looked up that the DYNA 2000i is programmable for either coil on bit 6 . Bit 6 set to OFF is for duel fire.
It may not feel like it but you are making progress and learning in the mean time.
[/QUOTE]
Thank you so much so were not getting any spark to the spark plugs any suggestions
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
To get spark : You need power to the Ignition module and power to the Coil. That power comes from the EHC. The coil is triggered by a signal from the cam sensor through the Ignition module. When the coil triggers it sends approx 30,000 volts through the spark plug wires to fire both plugs.( Duel Fire System)
You stated your ignition light is coming on but failed to mention if it blinks while cranking. No blink ( no signal) would indicate a bad Cam sensor . Blinks but no spark may be no power to the coil (red wire) or the signal wire( yellow) to the coil is disconnected or broken. If your coil is getting power and a signal your left with possible bad coil, bad wires or bad plugs.
Recheck your ignition instructions to make sure you installed the new system correctly.
You stated your ignition light is coming on but failed to mention if it blinks while cranking. No blink ( no signal) would indicate a bad Cam sensor . Blinks but no spark may be no power to the coil (red wire) or the signal wire( yellow) to the coil is disconnected or broken. If your coil is getting power and a signal your left with possible bad coil, bad wires or bad plugs.
Recheck your ignition instructions to make sure you installed the new system correctly.
Forrest&Melissa
Member
My husband installed a Dyna 2ki ignition. The wiring is not the original harness, he believe it to be a Generation 1 rip kit. Can anyone tell me what wire I connect to the green tach wire from the Dyna 2ki and where it would be located. He would really appreciate it. He has never tackled the wiring on his bike before so any info would be a big help.
Forrest&Melissa
Member
T
This has been one of the most helpful suggestions thank u so much.
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Not sure if this is your wiring system but check it out. From the ignition module follow the wire labeled green-cam signal (green wire). It connects to the EHC and comes out of the EHC on a yellow wire labeled Yellow Tach. See if any of the dyna instructions jive with this. Pay attention to the connectors in between as well.
Notice that the cam sensor connects to the Ignition module and then the ignition module sends the cam signal to the tach (green wire) and the coil ( yellow wire). I'm not familiar with installing a Dyna 2k system so I don't know how it relates but the instruction must address it.
This diagram is for a stock (duel fire) system. If your coil has an extra connection it's a single fire. Have you verified which you have for sure? Again you need to match the Dyna 2k to the type of coil.
Attachments
Forrest&Melissa
Member
So we got power to the coil but no power out any suggestions please
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
At this point I'm assuming you have verified that the ignition module is getting power by the red light coming on and also getting a signal from the cam sensor when you crank the engine (red light blinks). (KEY) If these conditions don't happen you will not get spark. You state the coil has power so now pull both spark plugs and ground them on the engine so you can observe them when you crank the engine. If you get a strong spark (blueish) to both plugs then your no start issue is timing, fuel or compression.
If no spark you are left with possible Bad coil or wired incorrectly, loose or bad spark-plug wires and finally the spark plugs.
If no spark you are left with possible Bad coil or wired incorrectly, loose or bad spark-plug wires and finally the spark plugs.
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Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Hopefully this previous post will bring you closer to the solution!
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
Testing coil
With coil removed from bike measure between center and each outer connector -- should be about 3ohms
To test for spark with coil off bike
Attach 12V to center wire (red on harness)
Take a spark plug wires and plugs
attach wires to coil, Use and alligator clip or something to ground the outer body (threads) of the spark plugs.
Take a light gauge wire and breifly (just tap it) connect from ground to the other coil positions (blue and yellow)
When you tap (quickly) on the blue position the rear plug should spark, yellow if front.
tapping quickly is the trick here.
Can also help with dim lights or plugs in a cardboard box so you can see spark easier.
When on the bike the ignition module will at the appropriate time be responsible for grounding (momentarily) the yellow and blue wires to create spark)
With coil removed from bike measure between center and each outer connector -- should be about 3ohms
To test for spark with coil off bike
Attach 12V to center wire (red on harness)
Take a spark plug wires and plugs
attach wires to coil, Use and alligator clip or something to ground the outer body (threads) of the spark plugs.
Take a light gauge wire and breifly (just tap it) connect from ground to the other coil positions (blue and yellow)
When you tap (quickly) on the blue position the rear plug should spark, yellow if front.
tapping quickly is the trick here.
Can also help with dim lights or plugs in a cardboard box so you can see spark easier.
When on the bike the ignition module will at the appropriate time be responsible for grounding (momentarily) the yellow and blue wires to create spark)
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
Hi JBM , Forrest hasn't verified it but I think he has a duel fire system. I'm going by the 04 BDC diagram.
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
If MIJ is correct, its easier -- positve to 12c, tap ground on other lead and BOTH plugs should fire