Parasitic drain electrical
- Thread starter Pddain
- Start date
hate to say it but, when you ain't riding it should be on a tender. nature of the beast.
Let me get this straight... I;
1. pulled the main fuse - parasite still present.
2. disconnected the connector off the black box/boxes - parasite still present
3. blue taped the tank and let key switch's hot wire eyelet rest on the tape - parasite still present.
Whereas, I had the ground cable off the battery, placed a volt meter between the battery post and cable eyelet, watched the parasite remain with all 3 above disabled.
So if you now see how I'm looking at it, you did render the black boxes of 12v, then yes, you have a para-drain.
1. pulled the main fuse - parasite still present.
2. disconnected the connector off the black box/boxes - parasite still present
3. blue taped the tank and let key switch's hot wire eyelet rest on the tape - parasite still present.
Whereas, I had the ground cable off the battery, placed a volt meter between the battery post and cable eyelet, watched the parasite remain with all 3 above disabled.
So if you now see how I'm looking at it, you did render the black boxes of 12v, then yes, you have a para-drain.
In other words, is there a 'learn' processing going on? Or saving RAM? Or, is there a clock option? Of course yes to keep time, and the others are just a guess to cause a draw. So if it's in need of saving RAM, or say the bbu works like a car radio... lose 12v, you lose your saved settings. That is more or less what RAM is. Looking at it another way, your computer saves all your uploaded photos and videos and that is RAM. If you wipe the drive, better known as reformat the hard drive, you lose your stuff, but say windows you can't wipe, so that is called ROM, or something you can't change; like the radio booting up for the first time after you change the battery.
The latest Triumphs use an outside relay. The back box has a timer inside and within so many cycles, it turns off or the learn is done and shuts off, who knows? So the Triumph learns and that might be for the 02 or a knock sensor, who knows? Does the BD unit have an inside relay for learn?
Don't know if all that shit is intellectual property, or if GM has some abstract in the shop manual that describes learn for the transmission shift to throttle inputs, to who is seat A and seat B when you just hit the button one time for that learned memory is in recall.
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Pddain
PHTM II
Thanks. Don’t know about the learn function but I will look at the specs on the ECH tomorrow. My guess is yes. No clock option. Others have indicated the Big Dog ECH has this problem and the only solution is to replace it. This would indicate a learn function, RAM saving must exist. Will check. Appreciate the guidance.
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
The ECH and EFI both draw a small current to keep settings.
Under normal operation this should not create an issue.
DO this
Take a multimeter and put it in AMP mode (DC)
Disconnect ALL wires from the positive terminal of the battery
Connect a lead from multimeter to positive terminal.
Connect the leads that are normally connected to the battery to the other lead from the multi-meter.
Could even do this one at a time.
report how much current you are reading being drawn.
Try one wire at a time and report what each device draws.
I would leave the starter wire disconnected while doing this or leave it for last.
DO NOT TRY AND START BIKE WITH METER IN PLACE -- You will overload it and at the least blow the fuse in the meter. Most only handle 10A max.
How fast do you notice the draw effecting the battery?
Have you tested the battery?
Under normal operation this should not create an issue.
DO this
Take a multimeter and put it in AMP mode (DC)
Disconnect ALL wires from the positive terminal of the battery
Connect a lead from multimeter to positive terminal.
Connect the leads that are normally connected to the battery to the other lead from the multi-meter.
Could even do this one at a time.
report how much current you are reading being drawn.
Try one wire at a time and report what each device draws.
I would leave the starter wire disconnected while doing this or leave it for last.
DO NOT TRY AND START BIKE WITH METER IN PLACE -- You will overload it and at the least blow the fuse in the meter. Most only handle 10A max.
How fast do you notice the draw effecting the battery?
Have you tested the battery?
Pddain
PHTM II
Fully charged Battery won’t start the bike after 4 days without a tender. Put a new battery in with the same result. Tested both batteries and both are good. Plan to work it today. Was not sure if this was a characteristic of BDs that I would have to live with until I got a new ECH or not. Found this as a result of replacing the cylinders and pistons and new cam. Slipped a ring which scored the cylinder. New paint, resealed the gas tank, new ignition module with lots of small mods. Bringing this bike back from the dead. Lots of bad work in its past. New to BDs so learning as fast as I can. Will let all of you know what I find. Thank you
More than likely, it the voltage regulator going bad. I've run into this twice.
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
My 2 Cents,
Add Mr. Wrights suggestion to Jersey Big Mike's and troubleshoot your bike. If your VR is putting out less than 13.5 or more than 14.5 when revved up it's NG and should be replaced. Too low doesn't charge enough and too high will fry your battery. Isolate your amperage draw as Mike suggests. Read each positive wire separately in order to isolate where the problem(if any) is coming from. A good place to start would be any none stock add on connections you may have like aux lights.
You could also charge your battery to the max, then disconnect it from the bike to see if it holds the charge after 4 days. If it won't crank the bike it's your battery for sure and not the parasitic draw from the bike.
Your battery likes a good long ride to get it back to max charge after cranking and running it on IV may not be long enough. I have a feeling that after you get your bike on the road again this problem will fix itself. Do check your VR before you put the bike back in service.
By the way , What is the Heat Sync Process you mention? I haven't heard of that relative to a motorcycle. Is that another term for an oil cooler system? Thanks and good luck diagnosing your problem.
Pddain
PHTM II
I really appreciate all the suggestions. I think we found the problem but will let y’all know the end of next week. The VR and battery are good. Believe it may be a ground issue.
We have replaced all the gaskets along with all the other top end work to make sure we have no leaks. With the new top end, the manual calls for a 1 minute run, check the temps on both cylinders, let it cool to room temperature then run for 3 minutes. This process is done 4 or 5 times with increasing run times before riding it the 50 miles then changing the oil, run it 500 miles under 3500 RPM. I called the temperature portion of the break-in process heat sync. for lack of a better term.
This has been a fun project, but damn I miss riding.
We have replaced all the gaskets along with all the other top end work to make sure we have no leaks. With the new top end, the manual calls for a 1 minute run, check the temps on both cylinders, let it cool to room temperature then run for 3 minutes. This process is done 4 or 5 times with increasing run times before riding it the 50 miles then changing the oil, run it 500 miles under 3500 RPM. I called the temperature portion of the break-in process heat sync. for lack of a better term.
This has been a fun project, but damn I miss riding.
Mikeinjersey
Well-Known Member
OK PHTM thanks for the explanation. Also another good policy going forward to help keep your gaskets in good shape is to allow your bike to be totally warmed up before going to high RPM's.
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
that would be more like a break-in procedure.
Pddain
PHTM II
First ride today. 50 mile break in. Colder than a well diggers ass. Oil change and inspection tomorrow. No leaks , yea. Isolated the electrical drain to the ECH. Will have to live with it Replaced a lot of the wiring which has helped with starting issues and some of the battery drain. Old wiring and connectors were the wrong gauge. Start the 500 mile break in next week if I can take the cold. New Celtic Cross
sissy bar due from Ginz in March. Looking forward to riding for a while. This has been a long process.
sissy bar due from Ginz in March. Looking forward to riding for a while. This has been a long process.
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