Coolbreezin
Active Member
Thanks Jersey Mike. Ill do that tomorrow. My headlight is an aftermarket LED.
Battery drains while riding.
- Thread starter Coolbreezin
- Start date
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
Could still be the connector, not likely the light.
Process of elimination.
Coolbreezin
Active Member
Ran some more tests, repeated some too. Bought another VR today.
Coolbreezin
Active Member
If the VR isnt the fix, then Ill put a magneto on it and kickstart my 117. lolol
Thank you all for your input.
Thank you all for your input.
pknowles
RETIRED
When you do the kick start thing, dont forget to setup a camera
Coolbreezin
Active Member
Plugged in new VR and pressed power line to + battery terminal. No change, still 12.9 at 2500rpm.
Dumb question...i wouldn't have to run it through 40amp fuse?
Keep in mind, 1.5years ago, I had Chopper City remove the ehc and all unnecessary wiring. No problems until now.
Dumb question...i wouldn't have to run it through 40amp fuse?
Keep in mind, 1.5years ago, I had Chopper City remove the ehc and all unnecessary wiring. No problems until now.
TapioK
Well-Known Member
So how much stator gives? Do a search and find a thread
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Coolbreezin
Active Member
Here is me MM. When set to ACV, the numbers jump from negative up to 20.
Ohms just gives me 0.L
Ohms just gives me 0.L
Coolbreezin
Active Member
I didn't want to mount it in case I needed to return it. I know it's kinda Jerry-rigging, but I just used car jumper cables to ground the new VR. Tried 2 locations, didn't help.
Coolbreezin
Active Member
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
A circuit breaker is like a fuse -- it needs to be INLINE with the power ie +++fuse/cb+++++load-------
If you take the 2 wires from a vr (ground and PLUS V) and connect them to the CB/FUSE it will pop INSTANTLY as you've created a short circuit.
AC reading on a MM should not go NEG -- AC is alternating current , should just read a number
20v is a little low if memory serves -- did it increase as you revved the bike up?
Check with ohm meter (bike OFF/Battery disconnected) from each lead of the stator to the bike ground/frame.
check output of stator while running and rev up to 2000/2500 rpm and watch for an increase in stator voltage output.
Coolbreezin
Active Member
Going to watch drunk women fall (ladies night). I'll ck all that tomorrow.
Thank you JM.
Thank you JM.
A/C output is junk = Replace stator.
Cold wire - Looks good output wise.
Hot wire - Oh shit WATT happened?
How can I say this? Nephew has an evo. Buys a new battery and he gets stuck trying to start it somewhere... better known in racing as 'total loss' is to lose the stator and magnet for weight purposes. See watts happening? I said to get the battery tested. HD dealer says it checks fine. Gets stuck again. So he charges it and I go over to check output. Seems fine when checking it cold. 14+ to the battery at idle. He calls again saying no joy and I say go buy a stator. Parts guy talks him into a v/r as well, and explains it's typical with this bike. That [single coil wire] you're looking at, meaning, testing both ends of that one wire; are showing a low output to either the North or South swing of the magnet's pass. That's the only thing I can come up wit is from my mental tool box and the theory goes: 'Magnetism = You cannot separate heat from its chemical reaction'. So I use heat, the magnet moving, times friction, equals another sip and a drag... brought to you buy the elixir fixer.
Just think, I have that v/r for the next chopper the nephew comes up with. Because if you take this example, the v/r showing 13 at that high an rpm says the v/r can dump 1.8 volts to ground. See, if the one side can push 16 volts on the one side, it would show a dump to ground of 1.8v = 14.2v to the battery. But E also means Equals, so the one weak wire swing is going to equal out or drag the 16 down ohms wise. I say keep the v/r for now. One part at a time to know the answer.
Coolbreezin
Active Member
Here are my findings for the below tests. battery is at 13v
ck VR is grounded to chassis. use battery negative and put red probe on VR bolt. USED TEST LIGHT AND MM, BOTH GAVE ME POSITIVE FEEDBACK.
To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast. NO LIGHT AT ALL.
Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms. CKED TWICE, I GOT .4
Tomorrows tests. I dont wanna start my bike at night unless Im riding away.
Using a standard automotive test light.Unplug the regulator from the stator and start the motor. Probe each stator pin with the test light. If the bulb lights when connected between any of the stator plug pins and ground the stator is shorted and needs to be replaced.
If you get proper AC voltage and the stator is not grounded (no light) the stator and rotor are good. At this point you can assume the problem is either a bad connection between the regulator and the battery or the regulator is bad.
use test light to see if power wire from VR to battery is good.
ck VR is grounded to chassis. use battery negative and put red probe on VR bolt. USED TEST LIGHT AND MM, BOTH GAVE ME POSITIVE FEEDBACK.
Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals.
Any advice or corrections are welcome.
ck VR is grounded to chassis. use battery negative and put red probe on VR bolt. USED TEST LIGHT AND MM, BOTH GAVE ME POSITIVE FEEDBACK.
To check the regulator unplug it from the stator. Take a test light and clip it to the negative terminal of the battery and then touch first one pin and then the other on the plug that goes to the regulator. If you get even the slightest amount of light from the test light the regulator is toast. NO LIGHT AT ALL.
Set the multimeter for Ohms x1 scale and measure for resistance across the pins of the stator. You should read something around 0.1 to 0.2 ohms. CKED TWICE, I GOT .4
Tomorrows tests. I dont wanna start my bike at night unless Im riding away.
Using a standard automotive test light.Unplug the regulator from the stator and start the motor. Probe each stator pin with the test light. If the bulb lights when connected between any of the stator plug pins and ground the stator is shorted and needs to be replaced.
If you get proper AC voltage and the stator is not grounded (no light) the stator and rotor are good. At this point you can assume the problem is either a bad connection between the regulator and the battery or the regulator is bad.
use test light to see if power wire from VR to battery is good.
ck VR is grounded to chassis. use battery negative and put red probe on VR bolt. USED TEST LIGHT AND MM, BOTH GAVE ME POSITIVE FEEDBACK.
Start the engine and measure DC Volts across the battery terminals.
Any advice or corrections are welcome.
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
Use this as a general guide to testing.
www.jpcycles.com
Measure the output of the stator -- last time you had 20v at idle but you need to increase RPM. Most systems don't charge the bike at idle.
Disconnect vr from battery and check voltage there, again at idle and at 2500rpm
With the VR disconnect, start bike and watch the battery voltage -- how fast does it drop?
I believe you have a short somewhere in system that is causing excessive current draw.
Have you open the headlight bucket yet? and checked there.
Step By Step Instructions For Testing Your Harley's Charging System
Here's the step-by-step procedure for testing the electrical charging system on your Harley-Davidson motorcycle.
www.jpcycles.com
Measure the output of the stator -- last time you had 20v at idle but you need to increase RPM. Most systems don't charge the bike at idle.
Disconnect vr from battery and check voltage there, again at idle and at 2500rpm
With the VR disconnect, start bike and watch the battery voltage -- how fast does it drop?
I believe you have a short somewhere in system that is causing excessive current draw.
Have you open the headlight bucket yet? and checked there.
Coolbreezin
Active Member
With the VR disconnect, start bike and watch the battery voltage -- how fast does it drop? I did that a couple days ago for a couple minutes. The voltage never went down (12.9).
I believe you have a short somewhere in system that is causing excessive current draw. My battery is at 13v right now and has been since Tuesday evening.
Have you open the headlight bucket yet? and checked there. I have not. If my voltage hasnt dropped while sitting, then I assume there is no parasitic draw anywhere. Wouldnt that be a safe assumption?
I believe you have a short somewhere in system that is causing excessive current draw. My battery is at 13v right now and has been since Tuesday evening.
Have you open the headlight bucket yet? and checked there. I have not. If my voltage hasnt dropped while sitting, then I assume there is no parasitic draw anywhere. Wouldnt that be a safe assumption?
Jersey Big Mike
100K mile club
Not really -- sitting still a wire may not be shorting but the vibration/movement of the bike could easily create a short.
So it's not a parasitic draw per se as that would be something wired drawing power (or too much power) all the time.
But a vibration induced short is VERY COMMON on motorcycles!
Coolbreezin
Active Member
I bow before you oh Master. Good point. Thank you.