Battery drains while riding.

[KaptinAmerika]

Not really -- sitting still a wire may not be shorting but the vibration/movement of the bike could easily create a short.
So it's not a parasitic draw per se as that would be something wired drawing power (or too much power) all the time.
But a vibration induced short is VERY COMMON on motorcycles!

Yep, we frequently find issues where someone over tightened a zip tie causing a voltage bleed.

 

[Coolbreezin]

My headlight is fully enclosed. It has 5 individual led's. It was just plug & play.
Any other thoughts/advice?

 

[Coolbreezin]

Hello all.
I started the engine and ran it up to 2000rpm's. Below is my findings.

"Using a standard automotive test light. Unplug the regulator from the stator and start the motor. Probe each stator pin with the test light. If the bulb lights when connected between any of the stator plug pins, stator is shorted and needs to be replaced."
I grounded the test light to the battery (13v) and the test light lit up when touched to stator plug. I used the MM just for giggles and found the top stator plug was much lower than normal but the bottom was giving me 13.3v.

So...r&r the stator? Or could it be something else?
Also, how hard is it to break and reseat the big stator nut? I do not have air tools. Ive never done this r&r but was with the guy when he did about 5ish years ago. And of course, YouTube.
Should I also replace the regulator & magnet since Im in there? Should I go to 40 amp or stay at 32? I have no other electronics on my bike than factory.
Pls advise.

 

[Coolbreezin]

Just spoke to a BDM guru and was explained the errors regarding my testing and what I should see when its done right. My ACV numbers never went above 13v at 3000 rpm's. The top stator post was significantly lower than the bottom. Just curious why that is and what is causing it. He also explained the benefits of a going to 40 amps (charges at idle and good for extra accessories). I have no added accessories so charging would be my benefit. But I feel I should go that route.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Just reading this and looks like it'd just your stator has finally worn out. That happens when you got 70k miles like you do.

after many many hours it just starts to wear the magnet down and it will just slowly deteriate your charging.

32amp Is fine or 40...your choice. But you already bought a new VR so get the stator to match. Replacing both at the same time just really makes sense while you got it apart.

These bikes are 10+ years old. So stuff just wears out!





Sent from my 2PS64 using Tapatalk

 

[KnotSo]

My battery drains (sometimes) while I'm riding my bike. I have a voltmeter under my seat and I can slowly watch it go down while idling. I checked for a parasitic drain, stator cks OK as does VR. I was hoping to find a loose or bare wire somewhere under the engine. I only have two wires coming out of my VR and both plug into the stator. Yesterday I needed a jump. Today I'm fine. Any advice you can give me? Thank you

VOLTAGE REGULATOR PLUG

This tip may help someone. I had an issue a few years ago where after riding for a couple hours the battery went dead and after shutting off engine it would not start. Lucky for me we were on our way to an event in Oregon and riding with a bud so we swapped batteries at every stop. Quite the...

www.bigdogbiker.com

 

[Sven]

... found the top stator plug was much lower than normal but the bottom was giving me 13.3v

Wire windings are dipped in a hot epoxy is my guess. So this coats the copper wire from touching the wire it lays on so there is no resistance draw. However, this is showing the one side has a coil winding that got hot, created a resistance and there is where the lower number is being drawn into the wire it now touches. Sort of like the weakest link in a chain, there is a weak or current draw at one of the many coil windings.

So...r&r the stator?

Yes. There are only 4 hard parts to the charging system. The battery, the v/r, the stator, and rotor. Can't be the battery cause it can kick the bike over. Can't be the v/r because it can ground 1.8v to ground, or if that was bad it would cook the battery with 16v direct at every N and S sweep. Can't be the magnet because it pumps out a higher output to the other side of the sweep, or that other wire, meaning. Ask yourself if it narrows down to the stator.

Also, how hard is it to break and reseat the big stator nut? I do not have air tools.

Tow the bike to a bike shop and see if they'll air it off and on. Or, what labor you pay, use that instead and tool up if you are going to mess with the bike yourself.

Should I also replace the regulator & magnet since Im in there?

Did you digest the only variable that is to be changed or do you throw parts at it like an amateur.

Should I go to 40 amp or stay at 32? I have no other electronics on my bike than factory.
Pls advise.

Stay 32a.

Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)

 

[bikeone]

Maybe the Li Ion reacts more sensitive to voltagediffernces than a AGM Battery.
I would check it out with a lead battery.
We tried to change to Li Ion on a older BMW R 900 Boxer. Charging System dont `load Li Ion.
we stepped back to lead battery and it works problemless.

 

[Coolbreezin]

Took my bike to Chopper City in Middleburg FL and talked with Dave Welch (builder). He said he'll ck it all out and let me know. I did ask him about my speedo wiggin' out the past few months and if it was related to the charging system in any way. I didnt see a connection, but he knows more than I. He said one doesnt affect the other. BDM speedos just wear out after a while. I got 74,000+ miles and 14 years from the speedo, so I cant complain. What I can complain about is that now I have to go with a Dakota Digital. I really like the style speedo I have now. Would LOVE to find a Medallion speedo.
Thank you all for yr input and guidance.

 

[KaptinAmerika]

WSW has analog replacements and we are also going to start doing original BDM faced speedos in about 2 weeks.

 

[Coolbreezin]

Thank you Curtis. Ill check yr site.