Loctite

Big D Florida

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
At one point I read something on here that had the locations listed, and the type (red or blue) Loctite recommended for use.
I've searched for that thread or post, but have been unable to find it.
Does anyone out there know where this information can be found?

Is it In the Service manual, perhaps?
Maybe on the torque table list?
 
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Big D Florida

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
It is mentioned in the manual every place it is suggested / required.
Thank you, my memory isn't what it used to be...lol. :old2:
I've seen a few suggestions thrown around to use red, when blue is indicated, I'll keep thrashing through the threads, to see if I can find that info. I don't want to leave a yard-sale of parts down the road behind me. :oldlaugh:
 

Big D Florida

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
Reading a thread about a trans losing six-bolts prompted me to do a physical, rather than just visual, inspection by putting a wrench on everything I can get to, verifying everything is tight.
It's something I do annually, and just hadn't gotten around to.
 

Big D Florida

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
Priceless tidbits of information. Things you won't find in a manual or on the side of the tube, but thanks to the generosity of our members, also won't have to learn through trial & error. :old2:
 

kickstart

Well-Known Member
Reading a thread about a trans losing six-bolts prompted me to do a physical, rather than just visual, inspection by putting a wrench on everything I can get to, verifying everything is tight.
It's something I do annually, and just hadn't gotten around to.
One needs to be careful here, if you tighten hardware that has had loctite applied it will break the seal.
My process is to clean all threads with taps and dies, then clean with Lacquer thinner when dry use Loctite primer and then apply Loctite and torque. Don't over do it with loctite.
 

Big D Florida

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
One needs to be careful here, if you tighten hardware that has had loctite applied it will break the seal.
When I do find something lose... I remove the hardware, clean the threads, and reapply the appropriate thread compound, whether it be Loctite or anti-sieze, and torque to spec.
In some cases, if aesthetics are not important, I put a glyptol witness mark on the bolt/nut to provide a visual reference for future inspection.
 

BWG56

Guru
One needs to be careful here, if you tighten hardware that has had loctite applied it will break the seal.
My process is to clean all threads with taps and dies, then clean with Lacquer thinner when dry use Loctite primer and then apply Loctite and torque. Don't over do it with loctite.
:agree: If that's not done the torque values when reinstalling the screws will not be accurate, and this is where a lot of the problems arise.:yesnod:
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
:agree: If that's not done the torque values when reinstalling the screws will not be accurate, and this is where a lot of the problems arise.:yesnod:
There's also a difference between wet and dry torque. So if someone doesn't use loctite and the manual states too even if they use the manual torque rating they will technically over torque the Bolt.

Just feel like splitting hairs today.. Haha




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kickstart

Well-Known Member
There's also a difference between wet and dry torque. So if someone doesn't use loctite and the manual states too even if they use the manual torque rating they will technically over torque the Bolt.

Just feel like splitting hairs today.. Haha




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Dry torque or Run On Torque should have very little resistance up to class 3 threads if there is resistance stop and find the problem, usually it can be taken care of with taps or dies.
 
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