Primary chain adjustment - video
- Thread starter rebroker7
- Start date
Overall an informative vid. However, I'm not trying to be some know-it-all, but rather walk my theory out. Here is where I disagree about catching N and/or clunk. The rest I agree with:
1. The engine turns the clutch outer in a continuous motion.
2. The engine moves in a power on-power off, where this would slack the chain no matter how loose/tight, then the other cylinder fires, etc.
3. The steel wave plate shows a slight wave into the clutch center, where a liquid/cable lever throw is not about to have a full throw.
4, The rod moves back into the slave cylinder/roller ramps and now cannot separate the plates far enough, via wave plate concaving.
5. The drag of a single plate keeps rotating the clutch center and that friction can cause hard disengagement/clunk/etc.
6. The chain has nothing to do with gear dis/engagements, but has everything to do with the wave plate running as flat as a pancake.
There is your trouble finding N... to stop the clutch center from rotating. That's my theory and I'm sticking to it.
Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)
1. The engine turns the clutch outer in a continuous motion.
2. The engine moves in a power on-power off, where this would slack the chain no matter how loose/tight, then the other cylinder fires, etc.
3. The steel wave plate shows a slight wave into the clutch center, where a liquid/cable lever throw is not about to have a full throw.
4, The rod moves back into the slave cylinder/roller ramps and now cannot separate the plates far enough, via wave plate concaving.
5. The drag of a single plate keeps rotating the clutch center and that friction can cause hard disengagement/clunk/etc.
6. The chain has nothing to do with gear dis/engagements, but has everything to do with the wave plate running as flat as a pancake.
There is your trouble finding N... to stop the clutch center from rotating. That's my theory and I'm sticking to it.
Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle)
cdogg556
Guru
Makes perfect sense to me.
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KaptinAmerika
Guru
So explain why when we make this adjustment, provided all other variables are correctly set, it alleviates the issue of finding neutral and the "clunck"? Not being confrontational or trying to start anything just looking for the same type of intelligent answer like you gave previously.
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I can't see how this would improve catching N or limit the pronounced 'clunk' without the clutch center moving. With the clutch center not in motion, It's as if the one shaft in the trans is not spinning, and you would find N or step on the lever and notice no clunk issue; as if the engine was not running.
Therefore, the only variable I can come up with is if the clutch outer basket wobbled with more chain slack, this would bump a plate into one another and cause drag. If the chain was tighter, this would cause the basket not to rock and cock that long (loose), and the basket remains more upright so no plate hits. If this needed a walk-thru, that's about as much belief I'll give it.
We make this [chain] adjustment for two reasons:
1. To keep the bearings from loading end to end.
2. To lower the snap/slap in transitional movements of lift&load.
We make this [wave plate] adjustment to remain flat for two reasons:
a. To find N and not creep forward with clutch lever pulled in [still spinning the clutch center].
b. To lower the 'clunk' [rotation of clutch center] so the engagement would not lunge you forward or stall the engine.
Therefore, the only variable I can come up with is if the clutch outer basket wobbled with more chain slack, this would bump a plate into one another and cause drag. If the chain was tighter, this would cause the basket not to rock and cock that long (loose), and the basket remains more upright so no plate hits. If this needed a walk-thru, that's about as much belief I'll give it.
We make this [chain] adjustment for two reasons:
1. To keep the bearings from loading end to end.
2. To lower the snap/slap in transitional movements of lift&load.
We make this [wave plate] adjustment to remain flat for two reasons:
a. To find N and not creep forward with clutch lever pulled in [still spinning the clutch center].
b. To lower the 'clunk' [rotation of clutch center] so the engagement would not lunge you forward or stall the engine.
Can't rotate the tire hardly at all by hand if plugs are in...compression
Need to rotate to TDC to adjust pushrods. If your really good you can do two at a time. I do them one at a time a hell of a lot easier just takes more time.
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Good point I thought this was a different thread about lifters...my bad. There's another thread recently on that..lol . Must be all the threads you been digging up from the grave! Haha
I've had a hard time posting for a few weeks says I don't have privileges on my tapatalk so why y'all haven't heard from me and obviously why I'm confused on the thread I'm posting on. I'll go back in my hole. Haha
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BWG56
Guru
Old age is creepin up on ya,