PROFLYER
SWOLE
Guys, many of us have had issues with our factory ignition switches (keys). We've heard the horror stories of a guy losing his key while riding, the key switch being intermittent and causing issues etc. I saw a post in another thread that @Mr. Wright had installed a rocker switch for his ignition. I inquired as to how he mounted that and he said he'd make me two brackets for the super cheap price of $20 each (plus shipping).
Next I'll run through the parts list:
1-coil bracket from @Mr. Wright OR a small metal plate with two holes drilled the same distance apart as the coil mount holes/strap with a 3/4" hole drilled about an inch down from that (see pics).
1-Radio Shack 2 terminal rocker switch part # 2750693 or any rocker switch that's 3/4" mount size https://www.radioshack.com/collections/switches/products/spst-black-rocker-switch
2-red female spade connectors (to connect to switch) I got the medium width ones
1-roll of 22g wire (about the same size as key switch wire). I'm sure you could use any wire, but since I tapped mine I needed the wire to be close.
2-red wire tap-ins. If you want you could solder your wires to the key switch wires, up to you. Taps work fine.
Step 1 is to pull your coil bracket off. There are 3 bolts, all 5/16" allen. I pulled mine then flipped it around, put a rag between it and the jugs and worked from there.
Step 2 is to locate the two wires coming from the key switch. I chose to wire this new switch into the key switch wires NOT the main harness wires. The tap-ins are before the plug. Take this opportunity to put a little dielectric grease in that plug before you plug it back in. I figured if things went terribly south I could replace or repair the key switch much easier than the main harness. You can see I also trimmed back some of the black wire wrap on the key wires.
Step 3 is to install the plate under the metal strap that's holding the coil to the mount. There is plenty of thread to add this part.
Step 4 is to tap in the new wiring that you'll be running to the switch. I cut off two pieces of 22g wire about 10" long. You'll trim it up later.
Step 5 is to route the wires around and behind the coil (as much as you can) then up and through the hole for the switch. Be sure you take apart the switch and put the lock ring over the wires but BEFORE the mount hole so you can install the switch in a minute. I gave myself about 1" of wire after they're routed where you want them and through the hole, then I trimmed it and crimped on the two female spade connectors.
Step 6 is to connect the spade connectors to the switch terminals. At this point test it--you should be able to turn the bike on/off with the switch.
Step 7 is to put the switch through the hole. I mounted mine so "up" is on and "down" is off so think about when you're sitting on the bike, up is on. You can do yours however you want, there are 360 degrees of options
Step 8 is to tighten the ring on the back side of the switch and make sure everything is run how you want it. I zip tied the wires to the other switch/coil wires so they shouldn't move around.
Step 9 is to install the coil mount/cover back onto the frame mount and jug holes. I found during this that my top mount bolt (large one that goes into the frame) was loose. I backed it out, added some loctite RED and put it back down tight. Then I got all 3 coil mount bolts started and down almost tight before I tightened them all down. Use some RED loctite on these 3 as well as I've had them come loose before I added it.
That's it! Now no key is needed to start you dog. The key switch is still fully functional and hopefully still somewhat of an idiot deterrent but your bike can now be started without a key. Thanks again Shannon @Mr. Wright for making the brackets for me!
Next I'll run through the parts list:
1-coil bracket from @Mr. Wright OR a small metal plate with two holes drilled the same distance apart as the coil mount holes/strap with a 3/4" hole drilled about an inch down from that (see pics).
1-Radio Shack 2 terminal rocker switch part # 2750693 or any rocker switch that's 3/4" mount size https://www.radioshack.com/collections/switches/products/spst-black-rocker-switch
2-red female spade connectors (to connect to switch) I got the medium width ones
1-roll of 22g wire (about the same size as key switch wire). I'm sure you could use any wire, but since I tapped mine I needed the wire to be close.
2-red wire tap-ins. If you want you could solder your wires to the key switch wires, up to you. Taps work fine.
Step 1 is to pull your coil bracket off. There are 3 bolts, all 5/16" allen. I pulled mine then flipped it around, put a rag between it and the jugs and worked from there.
Step 2 is to locate the two wires coming from the key switch. I chose to wire this new switch into the key switch wires NOT the main harness wires. The tap-ins are before the plug. Take this opportunity to put a little dielectric grease in that plug before you plug it back in. I figured if things went terribly south I could replace or repair the key switch much easier than the main harness. You can see I also trimmed back some of the black wire wrap on the key wires.
Step 3 is to install the plate under the metal strap that's holding the coil to the mount. There is plenty of thread to add this part.
Step 4 is to tap in the new wiring that you'll be running to the switch. I cut off two pieces of 22g wire about 10" long. You'll trim it up later.
Step 5 is to route the wires around and behind the coil (as much as you can) then up and through the hole for the switch. Be sure you take apart the switch and put the lock ring over the wires but BEFORE the mount hole so you can install the switch in a minute. I gave myself about 1" of wire after they're routed where you want them and through the hole, then I trimmed it and crimped on the two female spade connectors.
Step 6 is to connect the spade connectors to the switch terminals. At this point test it--you should be able to turn the bike on/off with the switch.
Step 7 is to put the switch through the hole. I mounted mine so "up" is on and "down" is off so think about when you're sitting on the bike, up is on. You can do yours however you want, there are 360 degrees of options
Step 8 is to tighten the ring on the back side of the switch and make sure everything is run how you want it. I zip tied the wires to the other switch/coil wires so they shouldn't move around.
Step 9 is to install the coil mount/cover back onto the frame mount and jug holes. I found during this that my top mount bolt (large one that goes into the frame) was loose. I backed it out, added some loctite RED and put it back down tight. Then I got all 3 coil mount bolts started and down almost tight before I tightened them all down. Use some RED loctite on these 3 as well as I've had them come loose before I added it.
That's it! Now no key is needed to start you dog. The key switch is still fully functional and hopefully still somewhat of an idiot deterrent but your bike can now be started without a key. Thanks again Shannon @Mr. Wright for making the brackets for me!
