How to replace a starter quickly, minimal disassembly

[desertdawg]

I searched my manual and found no procedure on starter replacement. I then searched the forum but didn't find a procedure that seemed to minimize disassembly. If I can find a way to get around removing my exhaust and pulley cover then I'm all in. If this post describes a procedure already documented then I apologize. My bike, a 2008 efi K9 with original ehc.

1. Seat, battery, and side covers removed
2. Remove VFI for access to EHC platform attachment
3. Without disconnecting wiring to EHC, remove 3 bolts holding platform to battery tray and move out of your way.
4. Without disconnecting wiring, remove 4 screws holding breakers to the left side of the battery tray.
5. Remove the battery tray by sliding it up and out.
6. I used a long extension with a round nose allen to remove the 2 starter attach bolts accessed from the right side by sliding in above the pulley area.
7. I left the positive cable from the battery attached to the starter as it's easier to transfer to the new starter off the bike.
8. reaching down through the top of the frame I pulled the starter from the primary and then fished it out as there was plenty of room to jockey it around.
9. As I mentioned, I transferred the positive cable to the new starter and reinstalled it then reassembled the above removed items.

Now that I've done it once, I'll bet it would take no longer than 1/2 hour to perform this task. I hope my experience in some way helps you all as I've received some great support and would like to try and pay it forward.
DONT FORGET TO TRANSFER THE O RING TO THE NEW STARTER....!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[pauldeepsea]

I searched my manual and found no procedure on starter replacement. I then searched the forum but didn't find a procedure that seemed to minimize disassembly. If I can find a way to get around removing my exhaust and pulley cover then I'm all in. If this post describes a procedure already documented then I apologize. My bike, a 2008 efi K9 with original ehc.

1. Seat, battery, and side covers removed
2. Remove VFI for access to EHC platform attachment
3. Without disconnecting wiring to EHC, remove 3 bolts holding platform to battery tray and move out of your way.
4. Without disconnecting wiring, remove 4 screws holding breakers to the left side of the battery tray.
5. Remove the battery tray by sliding it up and out.
6. I used a long extension with a round nose allen to remove the 2 starter attach bolts accessed from the right side by sliding in above the pulley area.
7. I left the positive cable from the battery attached to the starter as it's easier to transfer to the new starter off the bike.
8. reaching down through the top of the frame I pulled the starter from the primary and then fished it out as there was plenty of room to jockey it around.
9. As I mentioned, I transferred the positive cable to the new starter and reinstalled it then reassembled the above removed items.

Now that I've done it once, I'll bet it would take no longer than 1/2 hour to perform this task. I hope my experience in some way helps you all as I've received some great support and would like to try and pay it forward.

One question ? How did you remove the starter without removing the primary cover? Did I miss something

 

[desertdawg]

One question ? How did you remove the starter without removing the primary cover? Did I miss something

The starter is held into the inner primary housing by two bolts. An "O" ring seals it against primary fluid wash.

 

[woodbutcher]

there should be, what, 2 screws through the inner primary into the starter, right ??????? or just one? but either way, there are screws from inside the primary to the starter.

well, i just looked at my manual ('07 K9) and it shows 2 screws from the starter into the primary, part # 63 with washers #62 and a dowel pin #57, but no screws from the primary into the starter. my appology.

 

[desertdawg]

As I interpreted the manual, primary assembly parts list item #63 shows two starter screws with washers threaded into the back of the inner primary cover. Torque 20 ft lbs apply anti seize

 

[pauldeepsea]

Not sure on your setup but there is a bolt that screws into the jack shaft from the primary side into the starter.

 

[Th3InfamousI]

Not sure on your setup but there is a bolt that screws into the jack shaft from the primary side into the starter.View attachment 35735

05+ don't have that bolt that holds the starter gear, starter comes out with two bolts all in one piece.

Now lifting the battery tray, I guess that works but taking off the exhaust isn't much work and you get to clean parts you normally have a hard time reaching!

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

 

[TapioK]

Newer model vs. Older model...

 

[Joke•ster]

Good info, im needing the starter rebuilt. waiting for Curtis to let me know when he 's gunna start rebuilding .... i wouldnt mind an extra starter kicking around anyway , whats a fair price for one?? 08 k9 are they all the same??

 

[BWG56]

Good info, im needing the starter rebuilt. waiting for Curtis to let me know when he 's gunna start rebuilding .... i wouldnt mind an extra starter kicking around anyway , whats a fair price for one?? 08 k9 are they all the same??

DOC can rebuild it for you. There are new one's on e-bay for $299 but the oil relief cut in the nose is too deep, ask me how I know.
This is too deep

 

[Joke•ster]

man o man, that guru's got talent.

 

[Mickeetwo]

Thanks for the info desertdawg......always like to see options, you did good

 

[desertdawg]

DOC can rebuild it for you. There are new one's on e-bay for $299 but the oil relief cut in the nose is too deep, ask me how I know.
This is too deep
View attachment 35741

As every thing located inside the primary receives splash lubrication, why would that relief be considered too deep? I also compared the old starter to the new (to which you refer for sale on EBAY) and noticed that the original starter's bearing was visible just behind the starter gear. That bearing is not visible on my replacement but instead seems to have a separation plate as is also evidenced in your photo of the gear with too deep a relief. The relief on the original starter also cuts the same depth. How do I know? I measured it. My original starter has the letters BDM cast into the gear housing so one must assume it is original equipment. Please explain "this is too deep"

I really don't see the advantage to removing the exhaust and pulley covers over the battery tray. All I'll offer is that my way allowed the clean up of the EHC and it's bracket, the tray inside and out, oil tank and filler neck, swing arm mount and frame, complete upper and aft surface of the transmission, lower aft transmission frame shelf, and the entire inner primary surface. I might add that the cleanup was done from the top which really made the job easy and thorough. I will also add that Loctite was kept to only the 3 EHC bracket bolts, I didn't have to replace the head to exhaust gaskets, or go through the fun of disconnecting the o2 sensors, let alone dragging the starter out from under all that stuff.

But hey ..........maybe us west coasters do things a little different

 

[BWG56]

As every thing located inside the primary receives splash lubrication, why would that relief be considered too deep? I also compared the old starter to the new (to which you refer for sale on EBAY) and noticed that the original starter's bearing was visible just behind the starter gear. That bearing is not visible on my replacement but instead seems to have a separation plate as is also evidenced in your photo of the gear with too deep a relief. The relief on the original starter also cuts the same depth. How do I know? I measured it. My original starter has the letters BDM cast into the gear housing so one must assume it is original equipment. Please explain "this is too deep"

But hey ..........maybe us west coasters do things a little different

The oil relief should only go as deep as the bottom of the 1/4 moon shaped pocket, with the pic I have shown you can see the splash washer and the oil will fill the starter motor and then drip, been there done that. Now you would prolly say how, and to that I would say this is why they added the vent to the rear of the back primary plate to relieve some of the pressure that builds up inside the primary as your running the bike and push's it into the starter as the chain is slinging the oil on the starter gear area if the groove is that deep.

If you can see the original starters bearing I would say someone rebuilt it without the splash washer or it was rebuilt using a piece of rubber instead of the splash washer, which has also been seen in some of these starters that were rebuilt.

On another note, why did you have to replace your starter?

 

[Th3InfamousI]

As every thing located inside the primary receives splash lubrication, why would that relief be considered too deep? I also compared the old starter to the new (to which you refer for sale on EBAY) and noticed that the original starter's bearing was visible just behind the starter gear. That bearing is not visible on my replacement but instead seems to have a separation plate as is also evidenced in your photo of the gear with too deep a relief. The relief on the original starter also cuts the same depth. How do I know? I measured it. My original starter has the letters BDM cast into the gear housing so one must assume it is original equipment. Please explain "this is too deep"

I really don't see the advantage to removing the exhaust and pulley covers over the battery tray. All I'll offer is that my way allowed the clean up of the EHC and it's bracket, the tray inside and out, oil tank and filler neck, swing arm mount and frame, complete upper and aft surface of the transmission, lower aft transmission frame shelf, and the entire inner primary surface. I might add that the cleanup was done from the top which really made the job easy and thorough. I will also add that Loctite was kept to only the 3 EHC bracket bolts, I didn't have to replace the head to exhaust gaskets, or go through the fun of disconnecting the o2 sensors, let alone dragging the starter out from under all that stuff.

But hey ..........maybe us west coasters do things a little different

Okay, I wasn't knocking your process and actually I see your thought process now. I don't have to worry about 02 sensors and it's a little more cumbersome moving the battery tray when you've used one of the rewire kits. Removing the EHC is simple.

Whatever works for you is the right way, maybe this will help others who are EFI

Sent from my 831C using Tapatalk

 

[desertdawg]

The oil relief should only go as deep as the bottom of the 1/4 moon shaped pocket, with the pic I have shown you can see the splash washer and the oil will fill the starter motor and then drip, been there done that. Now you would prolly say how, and to that I would say this is why they added the vent to the rear of the back primary plate to relieve some of the pressure that builds up inside the primary as your running the bike and push's it into the starter as the chain is slinging the oil on the starter gear area if the groove is that deep.

If you can see the original starters bearing I would say someone rebuilt it without the splash washer or it was rebuilt using a piece of rubber instead of the splash washer, which has also been seen in some of these starters that were rebuilt.

On another note, why did you have to replace your starter?

I'm sure the fact that my starter is missing that splash shield has allowed primary fluid to penetrate the internal workings of the motor. After removal I noticed the housing seams showed signs of fluid seepage. The bike started to exhibit slow crank symptoms and I noticed the battery cables would warm during starter crank.

I've noticed the forum is talking their preferred rebuilders are not receiving the supply of internal workings to continue the process. is there a manufacturer list that built these new? I have a trusted company that can and would rebuild my starter but I would want them to use premium, proven rebuild components.

As I own two of these special bikes, that utilize a proprietary starter, it would be in my best interest to have a ready to go spare

 

[BWG56]

If you want it rebuilt correctly, send it to DeadOneCustoms.com
As far as new, see post #10 but the proprietary nose is no good.

 

[Nukeranger]

If you want it done right, DIY. Otherwise send it to http://www.wildsteedworx.com

 

[pknowles]

If you want it done right, DIY. Otherwise send it to http://www.wildsteedworx.com

Are they rebuilding starters? For a while they had stopped

 

[Nukeranger]

Are they rebuilding starters? For a while they had stopped

You're right but you always have to ask first. I think it depends on Raywood's schedule (Seems to be in Vegas a lot on business as in taking care of business!)