turn signal & headlight wiring

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Hey all,
Im wanting to put a switch on my bike (not on my bars and no, I dont want a ehc or any brain) to operate the headlight. Ive tested the wires in the headlight shell, we have power. Bulb is in perfect condition. I assume the switchboard in my bars is fried. No biggie there. That would explain why I dont have a hi-beam. The attached picture is for my bike (05 Ridge). I see the white wire is hi-beam.
1) Why would I have power to the final connector in shell if light switch in bars doesnt work?
2) Because I have power to the end connector, Im wanting to tap into the wires right out of the ehc and wire in my own harness so I dont have to run my own wires.

Your thoughts please.ccc.png
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
I wired in a switch to the white (hi) and yellow (low) wires and both work. Because I have no relay in it yet, I cannot turn off my low beam unless I use the key. Which is fine. At least if someone can figure how to start my bike, theyll attract attention by not having any lights.
So, with all the above said, do you think it would be an issue on the charging system or any other electrical part of the bike if both hi & low burned at the same time? I did it on my Ninja for many years without issue. I did a 30 minute test just now with both lights on and the top of the shell didnt get hot at all. Didnt even drain the battery at all.
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
Kevin,
Big Dogs have electrical issues because that cheap bastard Sheldon Coleman had to squeeze every penny he could on each bike. His inferior products were followed up with inferior customer service. Thats why they folded. Vehicles that shake, rattle and roll are supposed to have 16 gauge wire, not the threads used on our bikes.
Look through this forum and see the amount of problem & repair posts vs new ideas or How To posts.
Im slowly weeding out the brain so I dont go ass up roadside again. Engines ran just fine without computers on them for decades upon decades. Im removing all the unnecessary crap that time and technology has put on my bike.
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
All done with test ride. below is how I did it and parts used.

turn signals:
Novita EP27 LED relay/flasher $16
mini fuse holder power line (7.5 amp fuse) $6
Connected to wires under tank and under seat (brown for right side, purple for left side)

581x895xturnsignal05.jpg.pagespeed.ic.FLFl7vHqpx 2.jpg

headlight:
mini fuse holder power line (30 amp fuse) $6
same SPDT switch as used on turn signals
Connected to wires under tank (white for hi beam, yellow for low beam).

hi-lo headlight wiring 2.jpg
Made a little mounting plate and mounted everything under the tank. Other than my speedo/tach, I have no electricity on my bars. Move or remove that, and Ill design a nice clean set of bars. Because the above work was a "learn as I go" situation, it took probably 20+ hours. However, Im smarter and closer to understanding my motorcycle.

CAM01199.jpg CAM01200.jpg
 

dmouse

Member
How did you do the start button I'm very interested in have installed pdm had probs went to a rip kit and having problems with start now take out the pcb and it will start OK put the pcb back together and it won't start put in new pcbs but same problem I think it's time for simple I'm over spending time and money on this bike

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Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
All done with test ride. below is how I did it and parts used.

turn signals:
Novita EP27 LED relay/flasher $16
mini fuse holder power line (7.5 amp fuse) $6
Connected to wires under tank and under seat (brown for right side, purple for left side)

View attachment 35357

headlight:
mini fuse holder power line (30 amp fuse) $6
same SPDT switch as used on turn signals
Connected to wires under tank (white for hi beam, yellow for low beam).

View attachment 35355
Made a little mounting plate and mounted everything under the tank. Other than my speedo/tach, I have no electricity on my bars. Move or remove that, and Ill design a nice clean set of bars. Because the above work was a "learn as I go" situation, it took probably 20+ hours. However, Im smarter and closer to understanding my motorcycle.

View attachment 35358 View attachment 35359
That will sure work! Nice job! Headlight switch is cool. Although 30 AMp seems to much. If your running an LED shouldn't draw more than 5. With a standard headlight 10-15 Max should be good.

Not my cup of tea for turn signals, I'd just be concerned about always having to drop your hand from bars to turn off /on . I had a PDM and I was always running around with my damn turn signal on like a smoe since the PDm didn't self cancel. You could throw like a 30 second relay in there to self cancel.

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Coolbreezin

Active Member
How did you do the start button I'm very interested in have installed pdm had probs went to a rip kit and having problems with start now take out the pcb and it will start OK put the pcb back together and it won't start put in new pcbs but same problem I think it's time for simple I'm over spending time and money on this bike

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Thanks for reading my thread. I thought it was blocked or something. Anyway, if this slam button doesnt fit yr scooter, contact Curtis at WSW.
http://www.wildsteedworx.com/index....info&cPath=65_68_173_82_88_98&products_id=964
My starter button died a couple years ago. Ive been slammin' it since then and loving it!
 

Coolbreezin

Active Member
That will sure work! Nice job! Headlight switch is cool. Although 30 AMp seems to much. If your running an LED shouldn't draw more than 5. With a standard headlight 10-15 Max should be good.

Not my cup of tea for turn signals, I'd just be concerned about always having to drop your hand from bars to turn off /on . I had a PDM and I was always running around with my damn turn signal on like a smoe since the PDm didn't self cancel. You could throw like a 30 second relay in there to self cancel.

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Thanks for compliments and info. In running the factory H4 bulb. Ill lower the fuse amps. Thanks. As for dropping my hands off the bars, I turn the signal off just before the turn as Im slowing or at idle. Its an inconvenience, but I took all the foam out of my seat, run my tires at 40psi, use a slam button, and who knows what else Ive done to it. We have customs, make them look that way.
 

Th3InfamousI

Administrator
Staff member
Thanks for compliments and info. In running the factory H4 bulb. Ill lower the fuse amps. Thanks. As for dropping my hands off the bars, I turn the signal off just before the turn as Im slowing or at idle. Its an inconvenience, but I took all the foam out of my seat, run my tires at 40psi, use a slam button, and who knows what else Ive done to it. We have customs, make them look that way.
Your bike your style. It sure works and your happy with it so nuff said. Thanks for sharing I'm sure someone will find those useful

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dmouse

Member
Many thanks for the info I have a slam button but looks like I need to hot wire ignition for it work do you leave it connected all the time or do you have it switched for shutting off the motor thanks again.

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Coolbreezin

Active Member
I have the starter connected to the C/R's so they work when I hit the slam button. Theres threads in How To for this.
I have a button on my bike I use as the "kill switch" to start and stop the bike. It replaces the Run/Off button on the bars.
 

TapioK

Well-Known Member
I have the starter connected to the C/R's so they work when I hit the slam button. Theres threads in How To for this.
I have a button on my bike I use as the "kill switch" to start and stop the bike. It replaces the Run/Off button on the bars.
Why don't you just kill the engine from the key?
Trying to figure why have kill switch AND key if kill switch is not on handlebar. To be honest I d0n't even know why to have a kill switch at all.


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Coolbreezin

Active Member
TapioK, When the guy that did the points install and tranny rebuild, he also added that switch. I just cleaned up the design and hid it better. Why do I want a kill switch? If someone finds my key, they will play hell trying to figure out how to start the bike. Really, its just a preference. Some like suspension, some dont.
 

TapioK

Well-Known Member
TapioK, When the guy that did the points install and tranny rebuild, he also added that switch. I just cleaned up the design and hid it better. Why do I want a kill switch? If someone finds my key, they will play hell trying to figure out how to start the bike. Really, its just a preference. Some like suspension, some dont.
Was just thinking , on my 45 years of bies I never needed that stupid button. I have found use for suspension though, specially in motocross and I still think about that Ridgeback


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TapioK

Well-Known Member
Clever thing might be to swap the wires to the plugs when parking the bike.


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