Big Dog K9 shuts down and horn sounds after 10 min of running

Twisted

Well-Known Member
I had a similar problem once where the horn would sound and bike would die, ended up being my tag light wire pulled off the light board and the vibration would eventually allow it to hit the metal and short it out. Only noticed because I finally saw the light flickering. Not saying that's what it is but could be something shorting out!
 

Sven

Well-Known Member
Has anyone mentioned the Ignition Key?

Wiggle it around to make sure it does not brakes contact....
It's a DTT triggering. Bike sits with key on, engine off... within so many minutes/seconds the horn is triggered. Can't be the switch sitting there in the on position. Bike runs and stalls. Loose key switch should have failed by now or loosened up enough to pinpoint. Make sense?
 

francoblay1

The Spaniard
It's a DTT triggering. Bike sits with key on, engine off... within so many minutes/seconds the horn is triggered. Can't be the switch sitting there in the on position. Bike runs and stalls. Loose key switch should have failed by now or loosened up enough to pinpoint. Make sense?
Yup, I am thinking a short somewhere as Twisted mentioned b4.
 

2007EZ

Member
Yup, I am thinking a short somewhere as Twisted mentioned b4.
I have wiggled the key while the bike was running and it didn't effect the bike. The tag light was not working, thought that could have been the problem. I unplugged the connection and the bike still turns off.

This morning I sent the EHC to Curtis for testing. If it test good, then I have a short. Tests bad, I will need a new EHC or wiring kit. If it need to be reset, then I am lucky and can put some miles on the bike soon.
 

Little-Boo

Well-Known Member
Troop Supporter
The previous owner replaced the Battery and that is when the Electrical Issues started. :eek: Are you still running the same battery that he bought. Even though you had it Load tested, I would get rid of that dam Battery. You replaced the VR, was it a 32 amp VR as the stocker. I think the Compu Fire VR are 40 Amp VR's, working of a 32 Amp Stator. :crazybitch: I don't know, I would say you are low on voltage and that VR should be a match to the Stator. :2cents: If you need a stock stator, I have a used one I also have a used stock VR. I put a Compu Fire Charging system on mine and still have the used set up. They have about 2 thousand miles on them maybe less. Let me know.

Carlos
 
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2007EZ

Member
Sent the EHC to Curtis at WSW for testing. Micro Controller locked up and the EHC is toast. Just bought the new Gen 2 R.I.P kit that is a direct bolt in to the stock EHC location without any rewiring. I will let y'all know how it works out when I get in installed.
 
Sent the EHC to Curtis at WSW for testing. Micro Controller locked up and the EHC is toast. Just bought the new Gen 2 R.I.P kit that is a direct bolt in to the stock EHC location without any rewiring. I will let y'all know how it works out when I get in installed.
I am thinking I will have to replace my EHC also with a gen 2 RIP. let me know how the install goes. Curtis is testing my EHC also, BTW I am from Houston. Sugarland area,
 

2007EZ

Member
Today I installed the R.I.P Gen II EHC kit. Tried to turn it over and the starter locked up after the third attempt. The gear from the starter got stuck and would not disengage. I went to remove the starter but it was cocked to one side and I ended up breaking the starter front mount. Since I will have so much of the starter taken apart I will do a full rebuild.

It will be another week before I am able to fully test the new Gen II EHC kit and will give another update then. While I wait for the part to arrive I will change the primary fluid, trans fluid, and clean up the area.
 

francoblay1

The Spaniard
Today I installed the R.I.P Gen II EHC kit. Tried to turn it over and the starter locked up after the third attempt. The gear from the starter got stuck and would not disengage. I went to remove the starter but it was cocked to one side and I ended up breaking the starter front mount. Since I will have so much of the starter taken apart I will do a full rebuild.

It will be another week before I am able to fully test the new Gen II EHC kit and will give another update then. While I wait for the part to arrive I will change the primary fluid, trans fluid, and clean up the area.
Arrrrghhhhhhhh :oldbang:
 

2007EZ

Member
It is a true plug and play. It took me about 2 hours to install the kit.

Cons:
  1. Wires are longer than original.
  2. Horn connection came off during install.
  3. Difficult to fit all wires in the original location.
  4. Wires going in to new EHC has a plastic housing. (see pictures)
 

Attachments

BWG56

Guru
Today I installed the R.I.P Gen II EHC kit. Tried to turn it over and the starter locked up after the third attempt. The gear from the starter got stuck and would not disengage. I went to remove the starter but it was cocked to one side and I ended up breaking the starter front mount. Since I will have so much of the starter taken apart I will do a full rebuild.

It will be another week before I am able to fully test the new Gen II EHC kit and will give another update then. While I wait for the part to arrive I will change the primary fluid, trans fluid, and clean up the area.
Do you have any pics? along with the 2 mounting screws there is also a 1/4" locating pin in the nose also by the rear mounting screw, Was that in there?
 

2007EZ

Member
Do you have any pics? along with the 2 mounting screws there is also a 1/4" locating pin in the nose also by the rear mounting screw, Was that in there?
Starter front mount. After taking the starter completely apart, I noticed that oil had been leaking past the seal and oil was covering the interior parts. Glad that I found the issue now instead of 100 miles away from home. I will clean everything up and put it back together with the new front mount.
 

Attachments

BWG56

Guru
Wow, I haven't seen one broken there before, do you think you caused that because it was cocked when you tried to get it out? Did it have the dowel pin by the lower mounting screw for locating?
If you look at the top mounting hole on your pic, you can kinda see threads inside the hole, thats how close the clearance hole is for the mounting bolt, reason I'm saying this is because I had a new nose mount installed on mine and I could not get the mounting bolts to thread into the inner primary to install. I had to open up the mounting holes on the starter by .020-.030 in order for the screws to clear the nose and thread into the inner primary. Just an FYI if you can't get the screws to thread in.
 
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