Key on test battery- 12.8 v
Key on, blinkers, high beams, brakes on- 12.4 v
Bike started- fluctuates between 13.8-14.2
Good move on the digital. The analog is better for wire shorts, digital for battery and charging. That's your ideal number on that static battery check. The load is fine @ 12.4. The charging was a given so 14.2 spiking like that shows the v/reg flip-flopping the voltage against that 12.8 battery. Those are Beautiful numbers.
As mentioned, This eliminates any poor grounds or loose parts on the bike.
Went to turn blinkers on and hit left blinker, horn blew and bike died. Hit left blinker again and horn blew once more then nothing. Have to hit run, then starts right up. Hit high beam, horn blew, bike shut off. When bike shuts off, both blinkers go on.
The next elimination is the H-box. Look how the bike starts right back up, runs all day long... Until you touch that switch, yes? Does that say, 'leave the unit alone?' Seems like it to me.
SO I;m assuming its not rear lights as previously thought because high beam is shutting it off as well. Alsop bike wasn;t hot this time so not sure on the cam sensor?
There you go, good call. Way too cold, way too hot, WATT was I thinking! Correct, it is Not the cam sensor. Starts too fast, runs too long, etc. That's now out of the way.
Could horn be shorting out? Why does everything work fine when bike is off?
No, I don't think so. If the horn was short then the current goes to ground, shorts, blows the fuse. It's not the horn. Why? The code spit was to sound the horn, wink the lights = Phantom hit!
Your thread title has the 'brake apply' also? Or have you eliminated that brake, assuming you were in the mutitasking of moving the switch and hitting the brakes? Lets assume the brakes are tied into the fuse as are the lights? How many fuses are on the bike?
We could pull fuses to remove those sub-systems and pinpoint it this way: by hitting the switches, tagging brakes. Then, replace the fuse in one sub-system slot and now see if that system coming back on line caused the effect.
Say there are not too many fuses to the system. First start bike and see if pulling the kill switch side will kill the engine you disconnect the switch at the connector. Then remove the other.
1. Right switch connector reconnected is begin to hit the high beam or whatever the toggling is on the right switch, toggle till dies. Nothing? Then, remove the right switch.
2. Left switch connector is now going thru the same toggling, short of hitting the kill switch. And BTW, you are so fast at doing this, do not overheat the bike. Start with a cold engine and less than 4 minutes sitting [idle] is your window.
3. This is while the bike starts with the switches connected remember. So you have one already connected and now is it that switch?
I'm thinking we are at the switch. But in the thread title, where are we hitting the brakes? Look how if both switches were disconnected, you nailed the brake switches, see the short up to the main wire connectors, not the switches? The switches hit the same "in the middle" of the wire harness, not the switch, not the brakes, but where the 'sub-systems' tie in, if say the brakes and/or running light is tied in with the high beam, etc. Make sense we scramble this like a cam sensor scenario and eliminate the switch or a "wire harness rub at a wire?"
.......He can accurately test it for you with the proper Big Dog breakout box,and he checks ALL functions on the EHC and will send you back a print-out of how it tested
.........I Would do this as a baseline to start from Tyler..........Once you have eliminated the EHC and VERIFY it is good or bad,then you can go from there..........That's where I would start if it was my bike.....Good Luck Brotha,let us know what ya do...Gotta get that Dog back out on the road!!!!