MossBerg590
Active Member
Thank you, I will try that and see what happens.
Cant Use Brakes or Blinkers or Bike Dies.....
- Thread starter MossBerg590
- Start date
BWG56
Guru
I just replaced my key switch a month ago. I was in Daytona and the bike worked flawless, trailered it home, got it out of the trailer, turned key and it was dead except for a flash of the turnsignal, kept turning key on /off/jiggled and sometimes I would see a flash of the turn signal, tried to jump, still dead, no headlight no nothing, dead. I pushed it in the garage and tried it again and it was dead. 3 hours later I came out and turned the key and it started right up. Haven't ridin it since I put the switch in but it comes on everytime I turn the key, so I don't know if I fixed it or not.
MossBerg590
Active Member
Just an update. I took the tank off and checked all connection. I seen 2 wires that had the insulation rubbed off a tiny bit in a spot but enough that wire was showing. I wrapped both wires with electrical tape and put tank back on and took it for a ride. I use my headlights, brakes,blinkers, horn and bike didn't short and die once. Im not sure if that was the problem or if my bike just isnt doing it right now because its intermittent. I will give it a week and see if it happens and let everyone know. Also, I followed the wire that got rubbbed and it is the wire for the right controls. We will see, staying hopeful!!
Mickeetwo
Guru
Hope that was your problem. Thanks for the updateJust an update. I took the tank off and checked all connection. I seen 2 wires that had the insulation rubbed off a tiny bit in a spot but enough that wire was showing. I wrapped both wires with electrical tape and put tank back on and took it for a ride. I use my headlights, brakes,blinkers, horn and bike didn't short and die once. Im not sure if that was the problem or if my bike just isnt doing it right now because its intermittent. I will give it a week and see if it happens and let everyone know. Also, I followed the wire that got rubbbed and it is the wire for the right controls. We will see, staying hopeful!!
MossBerg590
Active Member
WELL... Rode the bike to work today, after about 15 mins, pulled in clutch and hit rear brake and horn blew,bike died. Hit run, then start and tried to start then horn blew and died. got it running and got to work. On the way home, it didn't die once...This is driving me crazy!:bang:
1. This about one connector short of sending the Hbox out to be bench burned.
2. You sort of narrowed it down to hitting the brake, yes? Real simple... Pull any wire off the brake switch. This breaks contact or disrupts a 'complete circuit' is the one wire dangling off the switch.
3. Do not touch any other wire off the bike, this is narrowing down a wire. A running light does not short the bike but hitting the brakes does, correct?
4. Keep your front tire way away from the car in front of you and use your mirrors to brake for the asshole behind you won't see the brake light so if say the front brake light kills the bike, you now have both brake lights out of the loop.
5. Test ride more. Bike runs until you add the brakes, right?
So let me ask you this. You did not listen to turtle because you did not take the brake or lights out of the loop, is that correct?
Signed,
NOLTT (no one listens to turtle) and here is your brick wall :bang: you see me chasing my ass with the brakes still connected?
Those brake switches still connected? Let me borrow that brick wall for a second :bang:
MossBerg590
Active Member
Sven, It is not limited to brake I was just telling what I used at that moment. I did disconnect the rear lights and bike still shorted. "When" bike is acting up. I can ride down rode and use my left or right blinker and horn blows and bike dies.. Could it still be the brakes even if they aren't always being used when the bike dies?
Here are 3 variables:
1. The bike hits a bump and/or rolls forward on throttle lift/wire tug = No brakes/lights touched.
2. The combined brake/switch/lights tie into this 'read your title' = Using brakes or blinkers, the switches tied into the system is when touched.
3. The H-box is intermittent where this unit = Spikes a flip-flop, meaning, kills the H-box at random.
Answer:
1. Too many bumps in general and this should knock out the unit, but does not... Sounds like this is not it.
2. The lights, the brakes, the winkers, this correlates the closest as a cause.
3. The H-box has to be knocked out heading home over bumps and it did not occur, as in, sensor's overheating and running out of range. Whereas the H-box had no hiccup heading home and you did use the brakes and winkers I assume.
So how close are we being back to #2 as the closest variable #3 would be second, #1 as the last variable, but does not do it consistently as does touching a switch to ground, correct?
MossBerg590
Active Member
No it doesnt, unless blinkers, brakes etc are used( only when bike acts up)
MossBerg590
Active Member
Sven, I would say #1 is not likely due to one morning it did it while sitting in my shed. Then later n day it was fine.
1+ I had that same question rolling around.
If I have all my lights and switches out of the loop, the bike idles and dies on its own, sounds like the black box.
However, if you have a constant 'I wink or brake and it kills the box' then it is wiring, even though the box shut off on it's own, the wire harness is rubbed where?
I want to buy a magnifier or I have good eyesight, I now chase my male connectors for arcing. So that's any connector out of the H-box.
As you inspect, are the pins copper bright clean or filled with green electrolysis that could stop making contact as in arc off the pin and/or green stuff stops flow = Kills engine kind of scenario(s).
If I have all my lights and switches out of the loop, the bike idles and dies on its own, sounds like the black box.
However, if you have a constant 'I wink or brake and it kills the box' then it is wiring, even though the box shut off on it's own, the wire harness is rubbed where?
I want to buy a magnifier or I have good eyesight, I now chase my male connectors for arcing. So that's any connector out of the H-box.
As you inspect, are the pins copper bright clean or filled with green electrolysis that could stop making contact as in arc off the pin and/or green stuff stops flow = Kills engine kind of scenario(s).
MossBerg590
Active Member
No bike doesnt die on own unless blinkers brakes etc are used. I will pull the ehc out and clean with electrical cleaner ang dielectric grease and see if that helps.
MossBerg590
Active Member
Ok, bought a Big Dog Ehc tester. Tested Ehc this morning and it passed everything. What sucks is it wasn't acting up so when I tested it so may not be an accurate diagnosis? I guess I will have to wait until it is shutting off at use of controls or brakes and then test it real quick, but I'm usually not home when this happens.
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ksmike
Active Member
Reading through your post it seems that the rear blinkers/brake lights are the common denominator. Does both right and left turn signals do it? I would get them unhooked as close to the ehc as possible and see how it acts then. Then if that does help, start working hour way back to the brake lights to see if there is a short anywhere. Then try to unhook the lamps right at the socket and try again to see if it is a loading issue with the lamps.
If you dont have a diagram maybe someone on here can get you one. Its really hard for you to troubleshoot this without a diagram. Is yours carbed or FI?
If you dont have a diagram maybe someone on here can get you one. Its really hard for you to troubleshoot this without a diagram. Is yours carbed or FI?
MossBerg590
Active Member
Carb and I unhooked the rear lights at the connector by battery tray and it still was doing it.
MossBerg590
Active Member
Yes and also front or rear brake
ksmike
Active Member
Someone else has probably mentioned this, but check to make sure you have a good ground going to connection(pin) A-4 on the ehc. Really check to make sure the crimp is good on the ground eyelet.
If that is good, try unplugging the left and right hand controls near the ehc and ride the bike again. You would have to unhook the right hand control after the bike is started.
With the right and left hand control plugs unhooked it leaves the rear brake light circuit still connected.
These are just a few steps to diagnose, maybe not all.
I wouldn't necessary put too much weight on the ehc testing good with the tester. It would be nice if you had a spare ehc to slip in.
If that is good, try unplugging the left and right hand controls near the ehc and ride the bike again. You would have to unhook the right hand control after the bike is started.
With the right and left hand control plugs unhooked it leaves the rear brake light circuit still connected.
These are just a few steps to diagnose, maybe not all.
I wouldn't necessary put too much weight on the ehc testing good with the tester. It would be nice if you had a spare ehc to slip in.