Cant Use Brakes or Blinkers or Bike Dies.....

[MossBerg590]

A few weeks ago my horn would honk,both blinkers come on and bike would die. I turn bike off, on and fire right back up. Battery was right off the tender and still did it so I replaced battery.( It was 4 years old). Installed new battery and took it for a ride. Still doing it. Its to the point now, If I so much as tap the front or rear brakes, the bike shuts off. I have to pull over, turn off, on, start(takes a few tries now also) and ride. Does ok as long as I don't use brakes, blinkers etc. What does this sound like? EHC? Short? I thought maybe short in the right controls but bike shuts off with rear brake also so I don't think that's it. Ideas?:bang:

 

[Iman]

Sounds like the ech

 

[DRBarnhart]

Any lights lit on the EHC before it shuts down? After? I'm thinking there may be a short to ground in one of the power wires going to the rear lights causing the EHC to "reboot" due to a high current load...

Dennis

 

[MossBerg590]

Any lights lit on the EHC before it shuts down? After? I'm thinking there may be a short to ground in one of the power wires going to the rear lights causing the EHC to "reboot" due to a high current load...

Dennis

Not too familiar with these bikes yet, are you talking about the lights under the seat on top of ehc? When I press on, there is a red light, when I hit start, I see a yellow/orangish spark/light for a second. Once started the red light stays lit. When I hit the brakes or blinkers, the red light moves over one light and the bike shuts off...does that make sense?

 

[DRBarnhart]

Not too familiar with these bikes yet, are you talking about the lights under the seat on top of ehc?

Yep.

When I press on, there is a red light, when I hit start, I see a yellow/orangish spark/light for a second. Once started the red light stays lit. When I hit the brakes or blinkers, the red light moves over one light and the bike shuts off...does that make sense?

How many lights are on the EHC? 14? 18? This may be helpful...

http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/how/3717-read-your-ehc-fault-lights.html

Dennis

 

[MossBerg590]

Ill check and see which it is, its an 06 so I'm assuming the 18 but I will verify shortly.

 

[francoblay1]

I am thinking a short too. Keep us posted on your findings.

 

[BWG56]

I am thinking a short too. Keep us posted on your findings.

If I so much as tap the front or rear brakes, the bike shuts off

X3 I would think the common link being the rear brake lights is where I would start to look

 

[FrankBDPS]

Could it be the rear tire rubbed thru the wires?

 

[MossBerg590]

Thanks for the Ideas on the brake lights, I didnt think of that, I will tinker around later and let everyone know.

 

[Sven]

From the H, disconnect said lights/winks/brake lights, etc.

1. I first remove the brake switch wires off said foot and hand lever/pedal.
2. I then ride the bike and stop it so I trigger something to shut off.
3. It kept running. I know know it's not the winks or lights that are still connected.

Conclusion?
A. I install the front brake switch and take a ride = Still runs.
B. I install the rear brake switch and take a ride and the bike shuts off as soon as I stepped on the REAR BRAKE = Found the problem kind of variable.

 

[MossBerg590]

Although when the bike is off, the blinkers and brake lights work fine. When the bike is on and shuts off due to brakes or blinkers, the horn blows and both blinkers come on. I have to shut both blinkers off, try to restart. Also if it doesn't start first hit of the start button, I cant re-hit the start button because there's nothing. I have to hit "run" first then start.

 

[MossBerg590]

Ok, just went and started it up, I can hit the blinkers, brakes, horn etc and everything works and bike doesnt shut off. Yesterday I rode it fine for about 10 miles before it started dying and it died 3 or 4 times. Then it sat at work for 3 hours and after work it died about 12 times on my way home...every stop light. If it was a short wouldnt it be doing it now?

 

[FrankBDPS]

I am not sure but I think I have read where if the horn blows and blinkers come on it is low voltage. This could be caused by a short in the wiring. Do what Sven suggested. It may be shorting only when your weight is on the bike and you hit a bump in the road. Good luck.

 

[bruce]

I had something like this, ended up being ground wire at battery. I only found because I was removing battery to check other wiring. It was broken just behind eye on ground wire that bolted to battery, because all the wires were together bike would run but bad connection sometimes would stalling etc.

 

[MossBerg590]

Its not from my weight because when I finally did get it home, I parked in my shed and was off the bike looking at the lights on ehc and starting and tapping brakes etc and watching it die. How would I do what sven suggested when it is currently not doing it? Should I take for a ride until it starts dieng at every brake/ signal use and then test? Thanks for all help and replies.

 

[FrankBDPS]

You have a loose connection, bad ground or a short someplace. If you think it is the ehc I think Curtis can test them.

 

[Sven]

I have to hit "run" first then start.

1. I'm going to walk up to the bike with an ohm/volt meter, find my battery.
2. I do not want to chase my tail when the H-box is speaking to me in LED code.
3. I read that post that said this combination of LED lights winking is saying to check my battery is somewatt twofold:
a. I am checking my voltage and it should be 12.6v or better.
b. I am going to tug on my (+/-) battery cables to see if any are loose off their posts, because I am cutting out a lot.
c. I have to ground the H-box so it restarts this way. See how I may be chasing my tail about disconnecting wires, checking the battery when I know I have to start the bike over and over and that says a well charged battery and the charging system is working, the bike starts right up.

Cam sensor?

 

[Sven]

Cam Sensor [or any sensor] is sending in a range of signals so the H-box recognizes this input signal. Watt happens when the signal is out of range and is held in RAM? Look how I cannot start my bike unless I ground that volatile [RAM] signal. I stall, go for the starter button it just cranks along. I ground that RAM by the flip-flop of grounding that RAM so I am back to the preset of ROM that starts the bike back up.

Does that make sense?

It makes sense up to:

Not the battery. Then how come the bike starts right up after 12 stalls in one day home from work?

Not a bad ground. Then how come the bike starts right back up?

Not loose battery cables. Then if loose, wouldn't that strong amp draw melt the battery posts and cable ends?

Now we are up to a bunch of watt? Phantom LED lights my battery is low, but I start the bike back up 12 times in a few minutes give or take.

But I somehow ground something like have to toggle a 'run,' meaning, a flip-flop at the switch and it starts back up. Didn't that clear an, 'out of range' RAM signal? A no start saved in the processor, but flipping that to ground erased the bad signal. It has to start back up on the ROM, as if I removed the battery and lost my radio stations in my car, yes?

Radio starts right back up but is set at their ROM choice of stations at the factory. So find you stations all over and save them. Did that make sense about a cam sensor needing to be in range when cold; as it should stay within range when warm/hot; by both the engine and current running thru it?

 

[MossBerg590]

I think I understand, Ill have to read it another 5 times slowly:up: So how do I test the cam sensor and where is it located? I tested the battery and it is over 12 volts. All connections at the battery are tight.