Diesel Dan
Well-Known Member
X2.........
good god.........for 4 to 6k you could buy a entire new engine from S&S for gods sake..........Take it somewhere else.........
117 needs connecting rod bearing at 6K?
- Thread starter PYLOO
- Start date
X2.........
good god.........for 4 to 6k you could buy a entire new engine from S&S for gods sake..........Take it somewhere else.........
So how's it going on the teardown? Well, I've been scratching my ass wondering whathell it is going on with your bike? You do have the heads off, right? Oh yeah, I can see the cylinder wall but the barrels are still on. So you really have yet to see a skirt keybob or a bearing be boobed? Have you been talking to Sven? Yes, and he assked if your finger would leave your nose already and push down on the piston to see if the rod drops I've go a crankey go boink, said he.
john sachs
Well-Known Member
The contamination from a bad rod bearing USUALLY scores the cylinder wall as if someone threw sand in the motor.
John
John
PYLOO
Member
Just a update... I'm on my way back with my still hurt dog from Sussex Hills Cycle. I left behind a stumped mechanic. He put limit travel lifters in the rear cylinder and it's still making the same noise. He said for some reason the lifter isn't filling up all the way. he says he has plenty of volume getting to the lifter. So to the garage we go till another day.
No, Sven needs a kick in the butt I should have thought of this [fine tuning procedure] long ago. Because here is the scenario. I buy a used bike. I now can run my adjustable pushrods and follow the valve sink.
One way to find a good mechanic is to see h/er feeler gauge blades. It should look brand new and each one flat. Back in the '70's it was rocker arms. Back in the 80's and up to now are shims under the buckets. So, every time I made the valve lash too tight I'd get a tick. I let that leaf float in between the cam and shim or rocker and valve stem = NO Tick!
Here you and stumpee are setting the valve as if not compensating for the sink of the seat [and/or valve face] at the seat, you twist up to the raggedge of zero lash [almost] when all is said and done reading the flats as per [wear is the sink compensation?] = TICK.
Whereas, the shim and rocker go tight because said sinkage. So those are easy to adjust with a thinner shim, or a twist out at the rocker adjuster bolt an lock the nut. With solid lifters we have no problem as all 3 are alike. But with the liquid lift, we are not compensating for that sink.
So if we just paid for what? I pulled a rocker and looked for gall at the face and valve stem? I installed everything back together and counted without taking N'SYNC?
Signed,
Sing that variable wit me, 'where do we go from here... here are my hard parts all spotlessly clean, I tick, tick away the time I'm bored.
BadDawg Bill
Well-Known Member
I feel for ya bro. To save some money my advice is to buy a new set of lifters and set them this way:
In order to adjust the preload the lifter must be properly located on the base circle or “Heel” of the lobe. At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place. You will need to watch the movement of the valves to determine which lifter is properly positioned for adjusting.
1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the preload on.
2. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder’s intake rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, the correct position for adjusting the intake.)
3. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.)
4. Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at “Zero Lash”. Turn the adjusting nut down one half to one full turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.
5. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake almost closed, we are sure that exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.
6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
In order to adjust the preload the lifter must be properly located on the base circle or “Heel” of the lobe. At this position the valve is closed and there is no lift taking place. You will need to watch the movement of the valves to determine which lifter is properly positioned for adjusting.
1. Remove the valve covers, and pick a cylinder you are going to set the preload on.
2. Hand rotate the engine in its normal direction of rotation and watch the exhaust valve on that particular cylinder. When the exhaust valve begins to open, stop and adjust that cylinder’s intake rocker arm. (Why? Because when the exhaust valve is just beginning to open, the intake lifter will be on the base circle of the lobe, the correct position for adjusting the intake.)
3. Back off the intake rocker arm adjuster and remove any tension from the pushrod. Wait a minute or two for that hydraulic lifter to return to a neutral position. The spring inside the lifter will move the pushrod seat up against the retaining lock if you give it time to do so. (If you are installing brand new lifters they will be in the neutral position when they come in the box.)
4. Now spin the intake pushrod with your fingers while tightening down the rocker arm. When you feel a slight resistance to the turning of the pushrod, you are at “Zero Lash”. Turn the adjusting nut down one half to one full turn from that point. Lock the adjuster into position. The intake is now adjusted properly.
5. Continue to hand turn the engine, watching that same intake. It will go to full open and then begin to close. When it is almost closed, stop and adjust the exhaust rocker arm on that particular cylinder. (Again, when we see the intake almost closed, we are sure that exhaust lifter is on the base circle of the lobe.) Loosen the exhaust rocker arm and follow the same procedure described before in steps 3 and 4 to adjust this rocker arm.
6. Both valves on this cylinder are now adjusted, and you can move on to your next cylinder and follow the same procedure again.
PYLOO
Member
Thanks Bill. Well now I'm this far. I got new lifters from S&S. The top end noise is 95% gone, but I still have noise coming from the rear cylinder exhaust rocker valve area. I got a scope and was listening around the whole engine with it. The remaining noise is coming from the driver side, valve cover in the rear of the cylinder. Exactly wear the rocker arm meets the valve. Does anyone think I could of wiped out the rocker arm with a bad lifter?
rasdes
Active Member
Just like a car engine, if you want to hear a knock you start off in 3-4th gear lugging the engine with as much slow throttle as it will take. It must be lugged down to hear a knock; if not, you won't hear it; If it's the lower end you will definitely hear a knock....if it's not a distinct knock with a rhythm that matches the engine RPMs, it's not the lower end.
Page 1, post #8 and I could hear it from here.
Post #27 suffers no fools once again.
Post # 64 you've gotta be kidding me, I changed parts same noise and here we are page 5.
Signed,
I tired to tell you. :roll: And now I bow out of this one. First you think I'm fucking with you and then I start to fuck witchews. And you wonder why? Ain't my bike is why.
5 pages
Bye!