C.A. Jones
Member
Mr. Boo is right on the money. You're already down there. Replacement rings are less than $40. Base gaskets less than $10. C.A.Jones V-Twin | Custom Builds, Parts & Service
Let the Fun Begin!....Ported heads and cam install
- Thread starter spadesluck
- Start date
spadesluck
Active Member
Boo, you just want to spend my money! Lol
pknowles
RETIRED
Anybody mention checking the end gap on the rings before jamming them in the bore.
spadesluck
Active Member
Nope, what should the gap be? I do believe the jugs have been worked over before I bought the bike because I know the previous owner sucked a carb bolt in.
The ring end Gaps should be fall between .017 and .025 for the Compression Rings and .010 and .040 for the oil rings . I would go with what S&S recommends which is what I have on here. If you are not sure the bore size (which should be 4.125) get rings for a 4.125 + .010 over and cut them to size. Rings are easy to cut with a ring cutting tool. If you have never done a ring job (cut rings) and don't know what you are doing, get someone that knows how and save money. Match the piston to each cylinder Front piston to front cylinder and rear with rear take the rings and the above specs and have them cut for you, AMEN
Carlos
bearman
Active Member
I would always get new lifters with a new cam. Now if it was a used cam, I’d probably take my chances with the old lifters, but for me, new cam always = new lifters.
The best thing about your jugs is that they don’t look like they need boring. If they did, that would mean new pistons too.
But before you buy any rings, you need to measure your pistons. When the last owner did his rebuild he might have already had it bored.
I agree with boo on the oversize rings, better a too small gap that can be made bigger, than a too large gap that you can’t do anything with. You just need to know what you have first.
I always hone used cylinders to break the glaze, most of the time with just a hand drill motor with a cheap, 3 stone hone from the auto-parts store. It takes some practice, but you can get an acceptable cross hatch that way. You just have to have a way to hold the cylinder still and move the drill in and out at the correct speed for the rotation speed you are using.
All I have ever used to gap rings is a 3 or 4” soft jawed vice and a good file. It worked for the guy that showed me how, while he was building an 800 horsepower Hemi back in the ‘70s. It has worked fine for me so far on bikes cars and boats, but you do have to be careful and keep the one side you modify square with the unmodified side (hope that makes sense to someone).
The best thing about your jugs is that they don’t look like they need boring. If they did, that would mean new pistons too.
But before you buy any rings, you need to measure your pistons. When the last owner did his rebuild he might have already had it bored.
I agree with boo on the oversize rings, better a too small gap that can be made bigger, than a too large gap that you can’t do anything with. You just need to know what you have first.
I always hone used cylinders to break the glaze, most of the time with just a hand drill motor with a cheap, 3 stone hone from the auto-parts store. It takes some practice, but you can get an acceptable cross hatch that way. You just have to have a way to hold the cylinder still and move the drill in and out at the correct speed for the rotation speed you are using.
All I have ever used to gap rings is a 3 or 4” soft jawed vice and a good file. It worked for the guy that showed me how, while he was building an 800 horsepower Hemi back in the ‘70s. It has worked fine for me so far on bikes cars and boats, but you do have to be careful and keep the one side you modify square with the unmodified side (hope that makes sense to someone).
spadesluck
Active Member
I am replacing the lifters, along with rocker boxes and arms. I am just now waiting for John to finish up with my heads to put it all back together. At this point I don't think I am going to mess with the rings at all. Did not have any problems with it before taking it apart and don't see having any problems with it afterwards. The jugs look great and the rings are almost new looking. I honed my Ford 5.4 motor with the 3 stone hone from Autozone before when I rebuilt that motor with new rings. I do not see the point in doing it to the bike though.
I will post more pics up of the progress when I get everything in. Will also take it to the dyno as well. Did a baseline a couple years ago, will be nice to see what the difference is.
I will post more pics up of the progress when I get everything in. Will also take it to the dyno as well. Did a baseline a couple years ago, will be nice to see what the difference is.
spadesluck
Active Member
Have a question? My tp rockers are the roller type. Why could I not reuse these with my new s&s box's? They fit just fine. Has no one done this?
francoblay1
The Spaniard
That was my question too... I know it has been done and some people reckons it is just fine...
Others say it is asking for trouble.... Andrew is doing mine soon and he is one of the guys who recommends the S&S.... so.... S&S will be for me.
BWG56
Guru
About time you start listening:roll:That was my question too... I know it has been done and some people reckons it is just fine...
Others say it is asking for trouble.... Andrew is doing mine soon and he is one of the guys who recommends the S&S.... so.... S&S will be for me.
francoblay1
The Spaniard
spadesluck
Active Member
John is finishing up my heads now. Should have them mailed to me this weekend. I did start polishing the jugs as best as I can while they are off. Will post some pictures of the difference when done.
spadesluck
Active Member
Got one jug done for the most part. Did not try and go to crazy. It was a lot of work to get that front jug clean, as its never really been cleaned and polished like the before.
This is a comparison of the two, one dirty still and other cleaned up.
This is a comparison of the two, one dirty still and other cleaned up.
spadesluck
Active Member
Mine was pretty bad as it had never been cleaned like this before. I took a scotch brite pad to it to clean all the hard stuff off. Then I actually used 1200 grit sandpaper to finish it up. Then a lot of elbow grease with mothers aluminum polish. Trust me when I say it was a pain in the ass.
lol
spadesluck
Active Member
Very nice, what worked best for you to get to the wall of the jug in between the the fins? I has some crap still kinda on the front side of the jug. The area that's exposed the most.Nice job looks great. I know what you mean by hard work and lots of time. I just had my motor out of the frame and cleaned it. Had over 50 hours in it getting off 14 years of crud. It was well worth the time and effort.
