Clutch or tranny?

chopsteak

Active Member
Went for a ride yesterday and noticed 3rd gear loading and unloading.thought maybe my belt had become loose because of the way it felt. 1,2,5,6 gears no slipping. This started on my last ride and I adjusted the pushrod. Loosened jam nut bottomed out rod and backed off 1/4 turn and secured nut with Allen wrench keeping rod in same position. I rebuilt the tranny 2k ago due to a main shaft bearing starting to go away. Ordered to full rebuilt kit from Baker. When I headed back home to check the primary fluid it was 50 shades of gray, and it was last changed on previous ride, maybe 30 miles on that fluid. Question is do u folks think its the clutch or internal on the trans. 3 rd gear is the worst,4 th is bad but not as bad but 1,2,5,6 gets seem to pull ok. Thanks
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
Went for a ride yesterday and noticed 3rd gear loading and unloading.thought maybe my belt had become loose because of the way it felt. 1,2,5,6 gears no slipping. This started on my last ride and I adjusted the pushrod. Loosened jam nut bottomed out rod and backed off 1/4 turn and secured nut with Allen wrench keeping rod in same position. I rebuilt the tranny 2k ago due to a main shaft bearing starting to go away. Ordered to full rebuilt kit from Baker. When I headed back home to check the primary fluid it was 50 shades of gray, and it was last changed on previous ride, maybe 30 miles on that fluid. Question is do u folks think its the clutch or internal on the trans. 3 rd gear is the worst,4 th is bad but not as bad but 1,2,5,6 gets seem to pull ok. Thanks
For the most part, if the clutch is slipping, it will be most noticeable in higher gears (4,5,6) Mostly 5 and 6 unless clutch is really bad.
What year is your BDM? You can pull the clutch pack out and measure it, but the spec will depend on if it's a 12 or 9 pack type.
Does it feel like it's slipping? Or is it more like a lurching, jumping feeling?
If it's a lurching, jumping feeling it's possibly the transmission.
When you rebuilt it, did you replace just the bearings? How many bearings did you replace?
 

CURDOG

Active Member
For the most part, if the clutch is slipping, it will be most noticeable in higher gears (4,5,6) Mostly 5 and 6 unless clutch is really bad.
What year is your BDM? You can pull the clutch pack out and measure it, but the spec will depend on if it's a 12 or 9 pack type.
Does it feel like it's slipping? Or is it more like a lurching, jumping feeling?
If it's a lurching, jumping feeling it's possibly the transmission.
When you rebuilt it, did you replace just the bearings? How many bearings did you replace?
Mine was lurching and just continued to get worse each time I rode it. :rant: I pulled the clutch and was able to isolate the play in my transmission. Time for a rebuild by Andrew so I put it in the mail today. :up:
 

chopsteak

Active Member
'05 Ridgeback. 12kmi. I replaced all bearings,clips,needle bearings,etc. Everything in the Baker rebuild kit. What gets me is the fluid was so gray from obvious disc slipping. In 3rd gear it feels like it's in and out of gear more so than slipping. This all started when I mounted a set of Martin Bros pipes with a trans mount bracket. The two trans bolts forward of the drive pulley were used for the bracket and I had to go with longer bolts to accomodate for the thickness of the bracket.
 

BadBrad

2005 Pitbull
I can't imagine your exhaust bracket bolts being the issue. I would check to make sure my shifter pawl is centered and have a look at the shift fork for 3rd gear. But I know just enough to be trouble. The tranny is generally the one part of the dog I try to avoid.
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
'05 Ridgeback. 12kmi. I replaced all bearings,clips,needle bearings,etc. Everything in the Baker rebuild kit. What gets me is the fluid was so gray from obvious disc slipping. In 3rd gear it feels like it's in and out of gear more so than slipping. This all started when I mounted a set of Martin Bros pipes with a trans mount bracket. The two trans bolts forward of the drive pulley were used for the bracket and I had to go with longer bolts to accomodate for the thickness of the bracket.
I agree, the exhaust is not the problem. Changing out the bolts on the bearing door for longer ones will not cause this. It sounds like it's jumping in and out of gear. Did you update the Main shaft when you performed your rebuild? Updated counter shaft bolt/tapered washer? Also, are you running an open belt primary?
It's possible one of the shift forks is worn or bent. How did they look when you rebuilt it 2k miles ago?
 

chopsteak

Active Member
Appeared to be slightly scratched or shaved on the edges. More cosmetic than anything and didn't appear to be worn. This weekend I will dig into it and let you folks know what I find. I'm sure I will be on the horn with baker next week.
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
Appeared to be slightly scratched or shaved on the edges. More cosmetic than anything and didn't appear to be worn. This weekend I will dig into it and let you folks know what I find. I'm sure I will be on the horn with baker next week.
Well, feel free to call me. I can tell you right now, Baker will not back anything up if you performed the rebuild. But, if your looking for some tech support, feel free to give me a call :cheers:
 

chopsteak

Active Member
Btw. Has anyone looking at this thread ever changed out their primary chain? Mine seems to have just a hair too much play in it. I can adjust the tensioner to the point where if I go 1 click up its far too tight and 1 down makes it too loose. Where I have it positioned now is as good as it gets but still seems to be a tad on the slack side. Chain stretch is evident here, is it a common occurrence. Any certain mileage to ditch it and replace it? Excluding the open primary option with a belt. Can't see paying $3500 for a belt that does the same thing as the chain.
 

bigdogtech01

Well-Known Member
Btw. Has anyone looking at this thread ever changed out their primary chain? Mine seems to have just a hair too much play in it. I can adjust the tensioner to the point where if I go 1 click up its far too tight and 1 down makes it too loose. Where I have it positioned now is as good as it gets but still seems to be a tad on the slack side. Chain stretch is evident here, is it a common occurrence. Any certain mileage to ditch it and replace it? Excluding the open primary option with a belt. Can't see paying $3500 for a belt that does the same thing as the chain.
The chain should last you a good 30k miles with regular maintenance. A good indication that it needs a new one is when your out of adjustment. If you can't move the tension shoe up anymore, then it's time for a new chain.
When your adjusting your chain, make sure your finding the tight and loose spots. To do so, you will need to turn the motor over. Easiest was is to take your spark plugs out, put bike on stand with rear wheel off ground, put transmission in 6th gear and then turn rear wheel. Or, you can turn chain with a ratchet and socket on the front (compensator) drive sprocket nut.
5/8" slack on tight side of chain, 7/8" on loose side.
 
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