Dennis
Member
Yes. :up::up: Try doing this AaronDid you take the cam cover off and inspect the module? Mine was doing the same thing and when I looked it was obvious what the problem was! Fixed with a new ign module!
Thunderheart ignition problems
- Thread starter big A
- Start date
Dennis
Member
Paul I'm really just learning this as I go along since I'm in the same boat here. Here's a link to the Thunder-Heart website. I would recommend contacting them for support first.
Thunder Heart/Tech Support
Thunder Heart/Tech Support
Five Five
Well-Known Member
yikesDid you take the cam cover off and inspect the module? Mine was doing the same thing and when I looked it was obvious what the problem was! Fixed with a new ign module!
2004BC
FREEDOM!!!
I was at a gas station and had just filled the bike up. Hit the start button and smoke came up from around me. Smelled like burning cow dung. :crazy:yikes
DRBarnhart
Insert title here...
The Thunderheart ASM-5012 uses a crank position sensor not a cam position sensor like your '04 so it won't work for you. :down:
And so you know, the ignition module and cam sensor don't have to be replaced as a unit, you can buy each independently.
The cam sensor would definitely be the first thing to check since it's the part most likely to go bad... :up:
The "Evil" Dennis
stlmikie
I wish I had more money.
This is what my ignition modual looks like. I could send it to you so you could hook it up to see if that is the issue.
PaulHart
Well-Known Member
Ok that's what I was wanting to know. Learned something today. :2thumbs:The Thunderheart ASM-5012 uses a crank position sensor not a cam position sensor like your '04 so it won't work for you. :down:
And so you know, the ignition module and cam sensor don't have to be replaced as a unit, you can buy each independently.
The cam sensor would definitely be the first thing to check since it's the part most likely to go bad... :up:
The "Evil" Dennis
big A
Member
Thanks for the offer. B4 we go that route let me check a few things out.
DRBarnhart
Insert title here...
Your ignition module has two connectors with 3 pins each, right? Aaron's ignition module also has two connectors but one has 3 pins and the other has 4. The difference is where the tach signal comes from so I would't try to interchange the two modules... :down:
Dennis
DRBarnhart
Insert title here...
Here's one way...
1. Unplug the two connectors of the ignition module.
2. Verify the cam sensor is good with the test already posted.
3. Now, turn the key ON and press RUN (don't press START). Check for 12V at the ignition module (red wire in the 4 pin connector) and on the red wire of the coil.
4. With the bike turned OFF, disconnect the yellow wire on the coil and check continuity of the yellow wire from the coil end to the ignition module end (that would be the yellow wire in the 4 pin connector, guess that's kind of obvious eh?)
5. Now check the black wire of the 4 pin connector for continuity to ground.
What the hell did I just test, you say? You checked the input circuits and the output circuits of the ignition module! If you did what I've suggested and everything checked good then your ignition module has probably gone tits up...
Dennis
PS I know I'm probably forgetting something here so if in doubt just ask and I'll try to make better sense of it for you!
big A
Member
Thanks so much for the help guys. Here is what ive done so far (If i did this right). Just to make sure im using my meter right ill explain what i did. I took my meter and put it on the dial that tests for open/closed circuits. It reads 1with nothing hooked to either lead. When i touch the black and red leads together a buzzer sounds and the gage reads 001. This would be a closed circuit. Im guessing. I hope that i am testing correctly. When u say touch the black lead to the "sensor backing plate" i assume that is located directly behind the round cover that i took off to get to the cam sensor. the plate would be the next round piece that is held in by 2 flathead bolts which is used to adjust the timing??????
If that is correct then this is what ive got so far. I get an open circuit to all 3 wires; black, green, and red(which is good). I hope the connector that i am suppost to test was the female side(from the cam sensor). cause i did get a closed circuit on the male (ignition side) side(black wire only).
Next test. I get an open circuit when touching the red lead to green wire and the black lead to the black wire. Then i switched the leads and got 550 on the meter. With that it appears that cam sensor is good.
Next test. I did get 12v at the ignition module(red) with key on and run button pushed. havent gotten to the coils yet. I guess i have to take off the coil cover to get to them?? will the motor shift or move when i remove it??
As i am testing at this moment my bike doesnt fire and run. I guess some of these test will on show defects when im having problems again. For instance the cam sensor checked ok as of this moment, but does that mean its no the problem???
Again guys, thanks so much for the help. sorry if this is like rocket science to me. its cool that im learning tho.
If that is correct then this is what ive got so far. I get an open circuit to all 3 wires; black, green, and red(which is good). I hope the connector that i am suppost to test was the female side(from the cam sensor). cause i did get a closed circuit on the male (ignition side) side(black wire only).
Next test. I get an open circuit when touching the red lead to green wire and the black lead to the black wire. Then i switched the leads and got 550 on the meter. With that it appears that cam sensor is good.
Next test. I did get 12v at the ignition module(red) with key on and run button pushed. havent gotten to the coils yet. I guess i have to take off the coil cover to get to them?? will the motor shift or move when i remove it??
As i am testing at this moment my bike doesnt fire and run. I guess some of these test will on show defects when im having problems again. For instance the cam sensor checked ok as of this moment, but does that mean its no the problem???
Again guys, thanks so much for the help. sorry if this is like rocket science to me. its cool that im learning tho.
big A
Member
just got off the phone with thunderheart. the light on the module is designed to come on when it receives a signal from the cam sensor. if the light isnt coming on the problably got a bad sensor or module. A new cam sensor is about $110 and a new module is $225. i found a module on ebay for $75 brand new. here is the kicker, just because the part numbers are the same and they look the same doesnt mean that the new one will work. the software inside the module is specific to the size of motor. the company on ebay will not accept returns on an item that has been spliced and installed. so that is a gamble that im not willing to take.
thunderheart is willing to test my module and sensor for free. of course i pay for shipping. 2 week turn around aint too bad. another kicker, the problem that im having is very random and will their test even find the problem. i think ill wait a few weeks and then ship both back for testing. aleast that is a starting point.
thunderheart is willing to test my module and sensor for free. of course i pay for shipping. 2 week turn around aint too bad. another kicker, the problem that im having is very random and will their test even find the problem. i think ill wait a few weeks and then ship both back for testing. aleast that is a starting point.
stlmikie
I wish I had more money.
Actually the one I have has two connectors. 1st is a three pin. 2nd is a four pin. ?
DRBarnhart
Insert title here...
Don't know what to tell you... The wiring diagrams for an '03 shows either two three pin connectors or one six pin connector coming from the ignition module.
Dennis
Rick Utley
Member
Man I love my 2004 Big Dog Chopper with 117 S&S & not to many issues. Has wire plus harness & just got new Switch Control Module but now is cutting out badly from 3000 to 4000 RPM's i am fairly sharp but this issue is really working me over. Is it possible that it is my Thundeheart ignition or my key switch is fairly loose can it be shorting out? Please e-mail with any help! Thanks! I sure hope you get your bike fixed I understand how irritating this can be! I have an awesome mechanic he's fair & honest but some things I just wanna fix! rickvutley@ yahoo.com