Good for you and see ya at the Run 21.I'm waiting for my battery to fail... It's 3+ years old and still no issue. I keep it on the tender, and check my cables before each ride when I check my oil.
Replacement Battery
- Thread starter twowheel99
- Start date
Throttle Jockey
Don't Look at my Member!
Ok mines an 05 Ridgeback. My battery is about 4 years and 4 months old. It has stayed on a battery tender pretty much all the time.
A few days ago we had a good lightning hit and it took the power down for about 1.5 hours. Straight up lightning hit and black...no power. No circuit operation just a quick Boom and black out.
Three days later I drag the dog out and clean her up. I was going to warm her up good and change all the fluids. Reached down to start her and rower...rower,,,, click click click. One more try and the same. As soon as the compression releases would close back...click click click.
So I drive around on a Sunday looking for a battery. No luck.
In the back of my mind I'm thinking of my brothers here that know all and I'm thinking I need to wait to log on and look here for more info.
Sure enough i find this thread and see the debate about the batteries. Man!...155 bucks for a battery for my scoot!
So does everyone here agree that the Braille is the WTG? I hate to lay that kind of green down for a MC battery. But i want the best for my Dog.
TJ
A few days ago we had a good lightning hit and it took the power down for about 1.5 hours. Straight up lightning hit and black...no power. No circuit operation just a quick Boom and black out.
Three days later I drag the dog out and clean her up. I was going to warm her up good and change all the fluids. Reached down to start her and rower...rower,,,, click click click. One more try and the same. As soon as the compression releases would close back...click click click.
So I drive around on a Sunday looking for a battery. No luck.
In the back of my mind I'm thinking of my brothers here that know all and I'm thinking I need to wait to log on and look here for more info.
Sure enough i find this thread and see the debate about the batteries. Man!...155 bucks for a battery for my scoot!
So does everyone here agree that the Braille is the WTG? I hate to lay that kind of green down for a MC battery. But i want the best for my Dog.
TJ
Marco Polo
Newbie DELUXE
It seemed like the most bang for my buck when I bought mine and it definitely made a noticeable improvement when starting mine over a brand new stock battery so I'd say if you're having to replace your battery you might as well go for the nicer one.
Chopper Dave
SIICK!!!
I agree! and another thing....I found out that my VR is bad...and I drove to Gas Man's house(85 miles each way) running off of my Braille Battery! no problems at all!
we found out Sunday that my battery wasn't charging....so I am going to replace my VR and then I will be GTG!
well worth the cheese for a Braille battery!:2thumbs:
Throttle Jockey
Don't Look at my Member!
I picked up my Braille battery two days ago here in Houston. I think i may have to go fill feeders up this weekend because of the drought, so I don't think I'll get a chance to throw this battery at the dog until another week goes by.
I'm sure ya'll know this but i'll throw it out there: My card that came with it had print on the card that you have to register this battery with Braille in order to receive warranty service. Any non registered batteries will be denied warranty service.
On another note my test card also read that my battery tested at 718 cranking amps. Wow!
Keep in mind a lot of these racecars that these batteries are being used in are not running alternators. This is one Hot little battery.
TJ
I'm sure ya'll know this but i'll throw it out there: My card that came with it had print on the card that you have to register this battery with Braille in order to receive warranty service. Any non registered batteries will be denied warranty service.
On another note my test card also read that my battery tested at 718 cranking amps. Wow!
Keep in mind a lot of these racecars that these batteries are being used in are not running alternators. This is one Hot little battery.
TJ
Chopper Dave
SIICK!!!
yep...and even Chaingunner's VR went bad on him....and he said he road about 150 that day....running off of just his Braille battery! yep..these batteries are the shit!:2thumbs:
C
chaingunner
Guest
True dat! We were nervous, but it was too nice a day to let the bitch stay in the garage! I had a buddy with some jumpers in case....
testament to them batteries fo sho!
Throttle Jockey
Don't Look at my Member!
Threw my Braille in this past Saturday. Fired right up.
TJ
TJ
No H2O
Active Member
Battery died this morning pulling into the garage at work, had to walk the bike into the motorcycle parking area.
I plan on using the mini jumpbox to get it going in order to get me back home after work.
I don't want to wait days ordering a Braille, Deka, Yuasa, etc. (Tolls, gas, and garage for my cummute via car is ~$35/day)
Near me is an Advance and a NAPA, here's what they have in stock and available for pickup today:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...UohBBANzT051sxGuOdfxJOaAtkGxD3BXsPKLZSdsB8g==
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SBEETX20L
Which one would you choose?
I plan on using the mini jumpbox to get it going in order to get me back home after work.
I don't want to wait days ordering a Braille, Deka, Yuasa, etc. (Tolls, gas, and garage for my cummute via car is ~$35/day)
Near me is an Advance and a NAPA, here's what they have in stock and available for pickup today:
https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...UohBBANzT051sxGuOdfxJOaAtkGxD3BXsPKLZSdsB8g==
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SBEETX20L
Which one would you choose?
Reddickracing
Well-Known Member
The Napa is the better of the 2. The top one only has a CCA rating of 270. The napa has 310. I believe BD recommends 330 CCA's.
Amozon can have you a Throttle X in 2 days, overnite if you pay for it. Its 500 CCA's
Amozon can have you a Throttle X in 2 days, overnite if you pay for it. Its 500 CCA's
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Reddickracing
Well-Known Member
You sure its the battery? Need to have it on charge while you are at work. The jump box is just for cranking correct? If it went dead from lack of juice the jump box wont help get you home. Need to see if its charging when you crank it up
No H2O
Active Member
I'm not sure it's the battery but every other time (on other bikes) it has been.
I've never put the battery on a tinder while at work.
This one has usually been fine. When I put it on the tinder it's initially yellow but all the lights become green within minutes. Yesterday I went out for a short drive (in the rain though) and when I returned and hooked up the tinder it stayed yellow for several hours until I went to bed. This morning all the tinder lights were green so I rode it in to work.
In the past I've used the jump box to get it started and then off I go no problems thereafter.
If the jump box is able to get the bike started am I good to go (at least for the ride home) or will the bike shut down on me in mid-ride?
Also how would I be able to tell if it's charging when I crank it up?
Nukeranger
Nukeranger
Two things (maybe 3)
You can get a Walmart Battery to get your needs met until you get a better battery delivered
So, your paying $35 times maybe 20 trips in a car per month to go to work....it's time to look for a better place to work
If you bike was running and died going into the parking area, your charging system isn't up to snuff. Your bike should continue to run after being started.
Check you battery terminal voltage when running to make sure your charging system is working correctly or you'll be buying more batteries
You can get a Walmart Battery to get your needs met until you get a better battery delivered
So, your paying $35 times maybe 20 trips in a car per month to go to work....it's time to look for a better place to work
If you bike was running and died going into the parking area, your charging system isn't up to snuff. Your bike should continue to run after being started.
Check you battery terminal voltage when running to make sure your charging system is working correctly or you'll be buying more batteries
Reddickracing
Well-Known Member
U said it died when you pulled up at work, if it died due to low voltage then its prob gonna die again. You said you rode in the rain, I just read somewhere on here someone washed or ode in rain and had problems until it dried out IDK. Start by eliminating the battery and charging system. You can get a voltmeter pretty cheap at the advance auto you got near you. My Harley has 12.5 volts rite now and the Dog has 12.7 both not running. Neither has been run in a week. Good battery. Running - it should have over 13 volts up in to 14 idk the exact numbers. CHECK THIS FIRST... Make sure the wires are tight on the battery post, super common for them to loosen up. Need to check every day. They will melt the battery post when loose. I use lok-tite on mine, some say don't but I havnt had any problems
No H2O
Active Member
If you drive a car to work in DC and do not have parking as part of your benefits package, your options are $35/day or idle for well over an hour each way to save toll $ on the express lanes. I've had people tell me my (parking, tolls, gas) numbers are high until they actually walk through the numbers themselves. This is the reason, aside from enjoyment, that I ride daily, yes on the Ridgeback, unless weather is horrendous.
On the battery, if I understand correctly:
- If I go down there and it starts up, I should be ok to ride it home.
- I'll bring in the old battery to NAPA and have them test to see if can hold a charge (or not).
- I swap in a new battery.
- I start the bike with the new battery and hook up a multimeter, set it to 12V, and measure the voltage. If it's lower than 12V, it's not properly charging and I have greater issues.
Sound like a plan?
Reddickracing
Well-Known Member
With the bike running it should put out somewhere around 13.6 to 14.7 volts with a little bit of throttle. To accurately test your charging system you need a good charged battery. Good batteries not running should have around 12.6 volts. AGAIN check the battery connections.
No H2O
Active Member
Took out the old battery, it was a DEKA ETX20L that was manufactured in 2014!
Took it to NAPA, had it tested, it was bad, and hoping that means the charging system is good.
Bought the NAPA equivalent (NAPA ETX20L, NAPA claims DEKA makes their batteries and indeed there are a limited number of battery makers and an unlimited number of relabelers).
Going to put it in and fire it up tomorrow (weather permitting) for my ride to work. Will post around this time confirming that everything went well.
My only concern is that it's 310cca and BDM recommends 330cca on up. This hasn't been a problem thus far but I've only had the bike in spring/summer. Am I in for starting issues in the winter, it gets cold in DC?
Took it to NAPA, had it tested, it was bad, and hoping that means the charging system is good.
Bought the NAPA equivalent (NAPA ETX20L, NAPA claims DEKA makes their batteries and indeed there are a limited number of battery makers and an unlimited number of relabelers).
Going to put it in and fire it up tomorrow (weather permitting) for my ride to work. Will post around this time confirming that everything went well.
My only concern is that it's 310cca and BDM recommends 330cca on up. This hasn't been a problem thus far but I've only had the bike in spring/summer. Am I in for starting issues in the winter, it gets cold in DC?
Reddickracing
Well-Known Member
Close enough, MY BAD 270cca is what BD put in their bikes but could have sworn I read 330 somewhere. I cant be perfect all the time
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