bdmridgeback
Low Down Chop Shop
As you know, I eliminated the EHC out of my bike, but this is a upgrade you can do to make your bike run better than stock if you have done a cam, carb, and exhaust and want to do a programmable ignition in place of the stock one without changing out the cam cover for $400+. It will unleash all that "upgrade" power that the stock ignition is holding back.
This upgrade will allow you to keep the crank sensor, and more less, just plug this module in and be able hook up a laptop and program a new timing curve the way YOU want it. My bike DOES run better after doing this and well worth the money. The correct part number is ASM-5012. It is listed as being for a Twin Cam Harley but don't let that confuse you. It is for a Crank Sensor Ignition engine basically, not just for a twin cam. You can get this through ANY Drag Specialties dealer local to you or off of Thunder-Hearts website.
Thunder-Heart ASM5012 Stand alone programmable Ignition
...And if your local dealer doesn't carry them, go direct:
Thunder-Heart Direct Buy Site
This is the same unit BDM puts in the bike, only that the factory one has a preset curve that is really conservative to meet DOT requirements. When upgrades like cam, carb, intake and exhaust is done, the stock ignition can't "release" that new found power and a matching ignition needs installed as well.
All that needs done for this install is cut the three plugs with about 2" of the wire off your factory module and solder and shrink wrap the connections onto the new module, wire color for wire color. That is all. 3 plugs, 3 wires in each of two plugs, and 2 wires in the crank sensor plug. It will mount in the stock location and everything. Tach output hooks up and works great with the factory tach (you may need to reset the pulse output noted below). You can see that there is a dial on the lower portion of the face that will set some pre-programmed timing curves and two different redline/rev limit settings as well.
Here is what comes in the kit. New coil, wires, module, software, computer cable, and instructions:
Here is a close up of the module. It has a basic program switch to select from factory programmed timing and redline settings:
Here is after I had it mounted in the factory location:
...and installed but still wiring the Wire-Plus EHC elimination Module:
This will save you $$$. On the 2005+ bikes, you would have to buy a new cam cover, crank sensor block off plate, stand alone ignition, cam cup and having to redo lifter adjustment after tearing the cam all out of it. None of this needed with this ignition kit!!! This kit runs about $360 compared to spending $600 for all the other parts, and that is doing it yourself without shop labor rates figured.
If you get done installing, and the Tach runs at half the normal RPM, do this:
Plug in your laptop and go into the "Read Module Settings" and go to "Tachometer Cal" setting and change it to "1" if it is set at "0", or change it to "0" if set on "1". One setting cuts the pulses in half and the other setting doubles the pulses to correct the reading. Do a "Save settings" and that should do it.
...And if you don't think this upgrade will make an improvement in performance.... Here is a testimonial to read from other BDM owners:
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/performance/8943-best-damn-upgrade.html
Here are the close settings for the Ignition if you set it out of the box by the dial on the front of the module. Stock compression will require 30-32 degrees of total advance. I set mine at 4, I had tried it at 5, but went back to 4. You will need to possibly go down to 3 if you are at a higher elevation.
Setting 2 is 28 degrees
Setting 3 is 30 degrees
Setting 4 is 32 degrees
Setting 5 is 34 degrees
Setting 6 is 36 degrees
ALL these are at 5984 RPM Rev Limit
A,B,C,D,E will be the same advance but with a 6240 Rev limit with A being 28 degrees
I was told by the local BDM dealer that with stock compression to be no more that about 30 degrees. I ran mine at 30 and 32 and I am staying at 32 for now until the gas goes to shit down here! (It is halfway there)
Here is a cool little tool I made out of an allen wrench so that I didn't have to remove my Ridgeback side cover to adjust the timing (short of plugging the laptop into it). I used a 1/8" allen wrench and cut the short end even shorter to about 1/4" or a bit more. I then cut each side with a Dremel to look like a screwdriver flat tip. Works great. I can remove my seat, look down in at the module, slide the wrench in from the bottom and click it up or down without taking the side cover off.
This upgrade will allow you to keep the crank sensor, and more less, just plug this module in and be able hook up a laptop and program a new timing curve the way YOU want it. My bike DOES run better after doing this and well worth the money. The correct part number is ASM-5012. It is listed as being for a Twin Cam Harley but don't let that confuse you. It is for a Crank Sensor Ignition engine basically, not just for a twin cam. You can get this through ANY Drag Specialties dealer local to you or off of Thunder-Hearts website.
Thunder-Heart ASM5012 Stand alone programmable Ignition
...And if your local dealer doesn't carry them, go direct:
Thunder-Heart Direct Buy Site
This is the same unit BDM puts in the bike, only that the factory one has a preset curve that is really conservative to meet DOT requirements. When upgrades like cam, carb, intake and exhaust is done, the stock ignition can't "release" that new found power and a matching ignition needs installed as well.
All that needs done for this install is cut the three plugs with about 2" of the wire off your factory module and solder and shrink wrap the connections onto the new module, wire color for wire color. That is all. 3 plugs, 3 wires in each of two plugs, and 2 wires in the crank sensor plug. It will mount in the stock location and everything. Tach output hooks up and works great with the factory tach (you may need to reset the pulse output noted below). You can see that there is a dial on the lower portion of the face that will set some pre-programmed timing curves and two different redline/rev limit settings as well.
Here is what comes in the kit. New coil, wires, module, software, computer cable, and instructions:
Here is a close up of the module. It has a basic program switch to select from factory programmed timing and redline settings:
Here is after I had it mounted in the factory location:
...and installed but still wiring the Wire-Plus EHC elimination Module:
This will save you $$$. On the 2005+ bikes, you would have to buy a new cam cover, crank sensor block off plate, stand alone ignition, cam cup and having to redo lifter adjustment after tearing the cam all out of it. None of this needed with this ignition kit!!! This kit runs about $360 compared to spending $600 for all the other parts, and that is doing it yourself without shop labor rates figured.
If you get done installing, and the Tach runs at half the normal RPM, do this:
Plug in your laptop and go into the "Read Module Settings" and go to "Tachometer Cal" setting and change it to "1" if it is set at "0", or change it to "0" if set on "1". One setting cuts the pulses in half and the other setting doubles the pulses to correct the reading. Do a "Save settings" and that should do it.
...And if you don't think this upgrade will make an improvement in performance.... Here is a testimonial to read from other BDM owners:
http://www.bigdogbiker.com/forums/performance/8943-best-damn-upgrade.html
Here are the close settings for the Ignition if you set it out of the box by the dial on the front of the module. Stock compression will require 30-32 degrees of total advance. I set mine at 4, I had tried it at 5, but went back to 4. You will need to possibly go down to 3 if you are at a higher elevation.
Setting 2 is 28 degrees
Setting 3 is 30 degrees
Setting 4 is 32 degrees
Setting 5 is 34 degrees
Setting 6 is 36 degrees
ALL these are at 5984 RPM Rev Limit
A,B,C,D,E will be the same advance but with a 6240 Rev limit with A being 28 degrees
I was told by the local BDM dealer that with stock compression to be no more that about 30 degrees. I ran mine at 30 and 32 and I am staying at 32 for now until the gas goes to shit down here! (It is halfway there)
Here is a cool little tool I made out of an allen wrench so that I didn't have to remove my Ridgeback side cover to adjust the timing (short of plugging the laptop into it). I used a 1/8" allen wrench and cut the short end even shorter to about 1/4" or a bit more. I then cut each side with a Dremel to look like a screwdriver flat tip. Works great. I can remove my seat, look down in at the module, slide the wrench in from the bottom and click it up or down without taking the side cover off.
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