Drive belt

knothead

Second Chance Customs
Will do Thanks Mick, I thought I would start here and see who chimes in. I called Gates and they don't make that belt anymore and it's a 1 1/8 X 133 teeth and the Gates CS guy I talked to has yet to make it to the CS classes. :(
I have the wheel off for a new tire and the belt is 20 years old so I thought it could use a new one.
Hey Pat if the belt doesn't have cracks or the threads on the sides of the belt aren't fraid then I would leave it on there.

But yes the swingarm bolt on that side will have to be removed and you should be able to get it thru the narrow gap.

1996 vintage that Mick now has still has the original belt...also my 04 Ridgeback still on the original belt on it
 
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kickstart

Well-Known Member
Hey Pat if the belt doesn't have cracks or the threads on the sides of the belt aren't fraid then I would leave it on there.

But yes the swingarm bolt on that side will have to be removed and you should be able to get it thru the narrow gap.

1996 vintage that Mick now has still has the original belt...also my 04 Ridgeback still on the original belt on it
I figured the belt being 20 years old was due for retirement. I did look over the swing arm area, and the shaft is threaded into a nut on the left side of the bike and that makes me think that the shaft might have to be removed to replace the belt. I will know within the next few days and let Y'all know.
 

knothead

Second Chance Customs
I figured the belt being 20 years old was due for retirement. I did look over the swing arm area, and the shaft is threaded into a nut on the left side of the bike and that makes me think that the shaft might have to be removed to replace the belt. I will know within the next few days and let Y'all know.
Yes you will.have to back the shaft out some so to get the belt off and on
 

Jwooky

Well-Known Member
Just sharing my belt experience. My belt was 11years old, maybe 20-25k on it. Was looking a little dry. I even mentioned that I should change it soon.

Was riding out of Daytona on highway and accelerated, sheared every single tooth off the belt. The girls were following behind us and they thought they hit a sea of “big black bugs” lol

You can see the aftermath in the pic below. Slick belt, not one single tooth. This was the original S&S.
1765985592002.png
 

Mastiff Rider64

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Sorry, I forgot to look, in that short walk to the shop. Take the right pivot shaft bolt out, and I believe you can slip a belt through there.
View attachment 125961
Well, since I've done it twice now guess I'll say what I did. Ok, take the pivot shaft bolt turn counter clock wise and remove, then the round thing with the 2 flat spots turn it counter clockwise also till you can safely turn the belt (assuming you have removed the rear tire already) 90 degrees and slip it between the round thing with flat spots and the pivot shaft bearing. also make sure your front pulley cover has been removed so you can get the belt of the pulley and that should remove the belt from being trapped by the frame. As far as the rear tire, loosen both wheel alignment allen set screws, remove the axle covers, remove the nut, slide the axle out, remembering or marking which spacer goes where and how they go in, the flat side verses the lipped side does make a difference, once axle removed work belt loose of rear drive pulley and remove belt.

Quick way of removing belt, cut it. But to put another one on do steps above.
 

kickstart

Well-Known Member
Well, since I've done it twice now guess I'll say what I did. Ok, take the pivot shaft bolt turn counter clock wise and remove, then the round thing with the 2 flat spots turn it counter clockwise also till you can safely turn the belt (assuming you have removed the rear tire already) 90 degrees and slip it between the round thing with flat spots and the pivot shaft bearing. also make sure your front pulley cover has been removed so you can get the belt of the pulley and that should remove the belt from being trapped by the frame. As far as the rear tire, loosen both wheel alignment allen set screws, remove the axle covers, remove the nut, slide the axle out, remembering or marking which spacer goes where and how they go in, the flat side verses the lipped side does make a difference, once axle removed work belt loose of rear drive pulley and remove belt.

Quick way of removing belt, cut it. But to put another one on do steps above.
What year is your Mastiff?
 

kickstart

Well-Known Member
The reason I asked the year is because looking over the swingarm area and getting to the Nut (Pivot axle cap in manual) on the left side almost looks like the oil tank would have to be removed. I'm working on a 05 Bulldog with a bigdog frame, and I know BD used other frames but not sure on which models. So MR64 how did you get to the Pivot axle cap/nut? Is the nut on the left side on your bike?
 

Mastiff Rider64

Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Not sure what you mean by pivot axle cup/nut my pivot bolt screws into the pivot shaft. So can you send me a picture of what you mean? 20200702_161636.jpg

In the picture you can see my pivot shaft is actually broke. This is why I actually tore mine apart but I replaced the belt when I tore it down. And I moved my rear tire to center the rear fender also. I ended up having new wheel spacers made for that tho.
 

kickstart

Well-Known Member
In post #26 you mention "the round thing with the 2 flats" the manual calls it the pivot shaft axle cap. For conversation's sake let's just call it a nut. In the above picture you posted it shows your nut, snap ring and bearing on the right side of the frame. On my 05 Bulldog it's on the left side directly in back of the primary. That is why I am thinking the oil tank would have to be removed to get to the nut. IMGP0682.JPGIMGP0682.JPGIMGP0684.JPGIMGP0685.JPGIMGP0684.JPGIMGP0682.JPGIMGP0684.JPGIMGP0685.JPGIMGP0682.JPGIMGP0684.JPGIMGP0685.JPG
 
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